Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong Parade of Jeans

Friends, here is the moment you all have been waiting for (maybe)!  The Misty Pull-On Jeans Link Party is open for business.

The Details:  You can begin posting at any time.  You are welcome to post as many pair of Misty Jeans as you are willing to make.  You can post pictures until the end of the day (EDT) on November 30th, 2015.  Then the voting begins.  Voting will continue until days end (EDT) December 10th, 2015.  The winner will receive a prize packet including a $50 fabric.com gift certificate, and 3 patterns of your choice from Style Arc.  More prizes may be added as the contest continues.  Good luck, and let's see those jeans!

One more thing...please head over to the Curvy Sewing Collective and post your Misty Jean Photos on their flickr group.  Nothing would make me happier than seeing lots of jeans on the CSC, so that we can help other women overcome their fear of sewing pants!

An InLinkz Link-up

Sewing the Side Seams and Adjusting the Fit - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Friends, it is a rainy dreary day here in Indiana.  Quite appropriate as my hubby's company announced a major lay-off looming before year's end!  My mind is whirling over this.  I will probably get in to this a little more down the road.  But today, we focus on sewing.

First some commentary about the Misty Jeans pattern.  If you have already sewn ahead, I want to know how your jeans are fitting.  I have had one sewist state that her jeans were small.  Like, can't get them past her knees small.  Aside from her, everyone else has stated that the jeans are big.  I, myself sewed the size 30, when the pattern showed I needed a size 34.  I sized down because my fabric had a good amount of stretch though.

There also seems to be some variance with how the pdf pattern is fitting.  So, please tell me what you are finding friends.

Sewing the side seams of the Misty Jeans is actually a pretty easy step.  It is just one long line of stitches on each side of the jeans.  It is so easy that I forgot to take pictures.  Since you are sewing this seam in the direction that your fabric doesn't have any stretch you can use a straight stitch for the entire seam.  I used a 2.5 stitch length.

Here is the picture I posted on Instagram after I sewed the side seams (did you see the floral denim I posted yesterday?).

The fit in the behind is pretty good.  I could still use a sway back adjustment, but for the most part, I am pleased with the fit of the backside.  In the front there is a slight amount of pulling from the crotch seam towards the upper hip.  Some would call this a diagonal smile wrinkle.  This indicates that I need to lengthen the crotch.  Because of this, when I revisit this pattern, I will add length to the height of the crotch as well as the depth.

The biggest offender here to my eyes is the saggy baggy knee look that I have going on.  This is because I have knock knees.  I was born with knock knees.  My own family teased me endlessly about the fact that I couldn't stand at attention with my ankles together.  On my next pair of Misty Jeans, I will need to make a knock knee adjustment.  The easiest way to explain this is that you redraft the lower portion of the pattern to match how your legs come down from your hips.

Way back in 2011 Colette released a Pants Fitting Cheat Sheet.  This little sheet is a wealth of knowledge for figuring out what is wrong with the fit of your pants.  Most of the adjustments are linked to tutorials that will help you perform the adjustments.  My best advice is to start from the waist and work your way down fixing the fitting issues with pants.  Once you figure out what your own personal fitting issues are, you will be able to quickly make these adjustments to every pants pattern.

Because I will not be able to make the crotch adjustments needed, I will go ahead and put the waistband in to these pants.  They are wearable as is, they just need the mentioned adjustments to look their best.  As for the legs/knee issues, I will be taking them in from just above the knee on the side seams.  This isn't a true fix to the knock knee issue, but it will help some.  If you are bow legged, you would want to take the leg in from the inseam.  If you have legs that come straight down from your hips (the way patterns are drafted) but needed to take the legs in, you would want to take the pants in equally from the inseam and the side seam.  Does this make sense?

With this pattern, it would be much easier to make adjustments before you put the waistband in the pants, just make sure that you are pulling the pants up to where they would fit with the waistband in.

I hope this portion of the sewalong hasn't been too confusing.  If you need help figuring out the adjustments that you need, don't hesitate to comment below.

Up Next:  Adding the Elastic Waist and the Finishing Touches

Sewing the Inseam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Well Friends, so much for one post a day to get caught up!  Today let's talk about sewing the inseam of the Misty Pull-On Jeans.  This is actually a pretty simple step.

First let's match up the two sets of pattern pieces.  You want to match left front pattern piece aka the piece with the coin pocket to the back right pattern piece.  If you are looking at the back pieces on their right sides (right as in correct or the part that would be seen from the outside) then the back right (directional in this context) pattern piece would be the one where the wide part of the yoke is on the left and the outer narrow part of the yoke (hip edge) is on the right hand side.  Does that make sense?  Once those two pieces are paired, you know that the remaining two pieces pair together.

Align the Notches as You Sew

With right sides together align the inseam for sewing start at the crotch end of the seam (the pointy end) and align the fabric matching the notches as you go.  I don't pin the inseam.  I get the crotch end started with a lightning bolt stitch with a 3/8 inch seam allowance, and sew through the curve with the lightning bolt stitch.  Once I have exited the curve and will be sewing the straight line that goes all the way to the ankle, with my needle out of the fabric, I switch to a straight stitch and sew a 2.5 length straight stitch all the way down this line.  As I go down the line, I use the notches along the way as the spot where I am holding the fabric together to insure that things line up properly.

The reason that I switch between stitches, is I need the stretch across the curve that the lightning bolt gives, but at the straight part of the inseam there is no stretch in the direction of the stitches, and I don't like the way a lightning bolt stitch feels rubbing against my inner thighs.

I don't know about you all, but one line of stitching is not enough to convince me these pants will stay sewn and on my derriere, so I go back and sew a second line of stitching at the 1/4 inch mark for security.

Repeat these steps with your other set of pattern pieces and this step is complete.

Serger Sewists-  You can serge this entire seam, and there will be no need to go back and sew a second row for security.

Hope this set of instructions is clear, I was lite on photos.

Up Next:  Sewing the Crotch Seam

Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Hello, Friends.  The plague still exists in our home, however I feel like enough of the fog has cleared that I will still be able to post a semi-intelligible bit of instruction, so here goes:

Initially, we are working with the front pattern pieces, and the pocket facing pieces.

 

With right sides together we are going to stitch each pocket facing to it's respective front pattern piece.

Your notches will help you to remember this, but this seam has a 1/4 inch seam allowance instead of the normal 3/8 inch that most of the rest of the pattern has.  Style Arc tends to use a 1/4 inch allowance on what they call internal seams.

I am still using the lightning bolt stretch stitch here, because the bottom of this faux pocket will need to be able to stretch.

Serging sewists- this is a great application for your serger, just make sure that you follow the 1/4 inch seam.

Once the seam has been sewn, we need to flip the pocket facing to the inside and press it.  Remember to use your silk setting because of the lycra.

This is what the back side will look like after you press the pocket facing to the inside of the garment.

I ended up shearing my fabric at this seam.  For the life of me, I am not sure how this happened.  There are some thin spots in this fabric so I think that it is probably because I just sewed in the perfect spot.  Doesn't leave me real confident that the jeans are going to contain my arse though.  Since I will be twin needle sewing this seam, I am not going to worry about the sheared spot.  The twin needle edge should give me plenty of hold.

Here we twin needle the edge of the pocket.  I line the edge up with the 1/4 inch mark on my presser foot.

Once the edge has been sewn it looks all wonky and rippled.  But, with the magic of a good iron and clapper...

We are able to press the seam back to it's original shape.

Here is what the back of this seam will look like once it is finished.

Now, we move on to the next step which is attaching the front pockets to the pocket facings.  We will need the piece that we just finished working on along with the left and right front pockets.

We need to pin the pockets to their pocket facings.  Remember that your coin pocket goes on the left side, and the plain one goes on the right side.

Make sure that your pocket notches line up the notches in the pocket facings.

Now we are going to sew this seam with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  To me, this seam would be considered an internal seam, however the seam allowance marked on the pattern is clearly 3/8 inch for this seam.

Serger Sewists- This is a great seam to use your serger as well, just remember to jump back to using 3/8 seam allowance, and make sure you don't accidentally run your front pattern piece through the knife as you are sewing!  Oh the horror!!!

After we have sewn the pockets to the facings, we need to the pocket at the side seam and the waist seam.  Think of this like you are closing the pocket up so that when you sew the side seams and the elastic in to the waist, the pocket won't get bunched or move out of place at these seams.  I used a straight stitch, and sewed these just shy of 3/8 of an inch.  You want your stitches to start just prior to the point where the pocket starts, and stitch on past where the pocket ends.  I went about 3 stitches past, and started about 3 stitches prior.  I used a 3.0 stitch length.  

Once, I was finished this is what the front of the left pocket and left front piece looked like.

This is a view of the back of the left front pocket and left front pattern piece sewn together.

And here is a picture of the finished right pocket sewn to the right front pattern piece.

Friends, I hope I was able to keep everything straight through my brain fog and cold medicine stupor.  Tell me, how are your Misty Jeans coming along?  Let me know if you have any questions.  

I will try to get one post up each day until I have caught back up with the schedule.

Up Next:  Sewing the Inseam

Adding the Coin Pocket - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Hello, Friends!  The next step in making our Style Arc Misty Jeans is to add the coin pocket.  The directions state, "For the coin pocket fold the seams inward and stitch with a twin needle across the pocket top, pin the coin pocket where marked on the right side pocket bearer, once in place stitch across the base and twin needle each side."

Here are the pattern pieces that we will be working with.  The Pattern Pieces are named the Right Front Pocket and Coin Pocket on the pattern pieces, however the Right Front Pocket is referred to as the Right Side Pocket Bearer in the instructions.

Right Front Pocket Piece and Coin Pocket Piece

The first thing that we want to do is to press back the seam allowance at the top of the coin pocket.  So, set your iron to the silk setting, get out your trusty clapper if you have one, and press that seam allowance back.  A little tip here.  When you are dealing with fabrics that may be hard to fold, if you will warm the fabric with the iron first and then fold the fabric, it will help the fabric keep a sharp crease, and make it easier to press the crease flat.  Does that make sense?  Just don't burn your fingers!

Top Edge of Coin Pocket Pressed Down

Now, we want to run a twin needle stitch across the top of the coin pocket.  Our twin needle should still be in our machine, but just for a reminder we are using a Universal Wide Twin Needle (Size 6.0),  I am still using a 3.5 stitch length.  Somehow, I managed to not take a picture of this step.  I lined the folded edge of the pocket up with the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot, and ran a twin needle stitch all the way across the top of the pocket.

Once the top of the pocket is stitched, it is time to move on to pressing the side seam allowances of the pocket down.  Once you have done that, this is what your coin pocket will look like (pardon the blur).

Pressed Back Edges after Twin Needle Stitching Top of Coin Pocket

Now, we need to pin the Coin Pocket to the right side of the Right Front Pocket.  Make sure that your folded seam allowances stay folded in when you do this.  Line your Coin Pocket up with your markings on your Right Pocket Piece and pin the Coin Pocket in place  I only pinned the pocket at the top corners.

Coin Pocket Pinned to Right Front Pocket/Pocket Bearer

With our Coin Pocket pinned in to place, it is time to twin needle stitch down the left and right side of the pocket.  We will stitch and reverse stitch at the beginning and end of each seam to anchor the stitches.  You want to start your stitches on the top row of twin needle stitches that run across the top of your coin pocket.

Twin Needle Stitching the Coin Pocket to the Right Pocket Piece

Coin Pocket Twin Needle Stitched to the Right  Pocket Piece

Now, we want to set our machine up to do whichever form of stretch stitch that we have chosen to use.  In my case I am using the lightning bolt zig zag with a 3.0 stitch length.  You should also remove your twin needle from your machine, and insert your Universal 80/12 needle, or whatever needle is appropriate for your chosen fabric.  Refer back to the Sewing the Yoke post if you need help remembering which needle to use with your fabric.

Lightning Bolt Stretch Stitch at 3.0 Stitch Length

Now it is time to stitch across the base of the coin pocket to close the pocket bottom.  I once again have lined the fabric up at the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot.  You want to start your stitches about 1/2 inch from the Coin Pocket on the Right Pocket Piece.  Stitch and reverse to anchor your stitches.  Now stitch all the was across the base of the coin pocket and about a 1/2 inch beyond, remembering to reverse your stitches at the end of the seam as well.

Stitching the Base of the Coin Pocket

Once you have finished, your pattern piece will look something like this.  You can either snip your threads close on the front side, or pull your threads through to the back and snip them.

Finished Front of Right Pocket Piece with Coin Pocket Attached

View of the Back of the Coin Pocket Attached to the Right Front Pocket Piece

That finishes off this step.  How are you all coming along on your sewing?  I just can't wait to see what everyone does with their Misty Pull-On Jeans.

Next Step: Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges

Sewing the Yoke - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Friends, here is our next step in the Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong.

Step one in the pattern states, "With right sides together sew the back yoke to the top of the back, follow the notches, press the seams upward and twin needle the yoke edge."

I am going to make no assumptions about your sewing prowess.  So let's start with the idea of putting the right sides together.  Hopefully, you went with a denim that is not as crazy as mine.  The right side of your denim is the side that you would be able to see when you are wearing the denim.  Are you following me?

With right sides of the back pattern piece and the yoke piece together, make sure that your double notch lines up.

Putting Double Notches Together - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

I pinned the fabric at the first notch.  Then checked the edges of the fabric to be sure the seams lined up correctly.

Notched Seam Allowance - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

This notched edge (above) is where I intend to start sewing.  I aligned the notches at this edge and pinned my pieces together.  I will be honest in that I don't normally pin seams, but I wanted to take that step, because I feel that it is important to many beginners.  Did you figure out that Style Arc gives you a notch to show what your seam allowances are?  Yep, that little notch is 3/8 of an inch in, and let's you know this is where you should start your sewing.

Seam Notch Allignment - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

On what will be the far end of your seam (the center back edge), there is a notch in the yoke, and no notch in the back pattern piece.  At this end of the seam, it is important that your fabric line up at the seam, so you will have an extra little triangle of fabric sticking out above the notch.  That is proper alignment.  You didn't do anything wrong.  If that little triangle annoys you, just snip it off after you have sewed your seam.

Now that you have gotten your pattern pieces ready to sew together, it is time to get your sewing machine set to sew this seam.

Lightning Bolt Stitch - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

 I am using the #4 lightning bolt stitch on my machine, though the #5 zig zag would also be perfectly acceptable here.  The point is you want to pick the stretch stitch that you prefer.  Some people will also sew this with a straight stitch, but to do that you have to stretch your fabric to its max stretch as you go, and I don't suggest that method for beginners.

Serger Sewists - If you are using your serger, this would be one of the seams that you want to serge.  Just make sure you use the 3/8 inch seam allowance instead of the normal 5/8 you get with most patterns.

Schmetz Universal Needle - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

Let's get a proper needle in our machines now.  I chose the Schmetz Universal 80/12 needle for this project.  Though this is a stretchy material, at it's heart it is woven.  So, I went with the universal needle.  As for size, my denim isn't thick or heavy and I am using normal everyday thread, which is why I chose the 80/12 size.  If your denim is heavier (more denim like) you may want to use the Jeans Needle in the 90/14 size.  If you are using a knit jegging material, go for the Stretch Needle in the 90/14 size.  Let me know if you have any questions.

Now it is time to thread our machines (I hope we all already know how to do that), and get started.

Throat Plate 3/8 Seam Allowance - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

I have aligned my fabric so that the seam allowance notches are centered with my needle, and my fabric lines up at the 3/8 inch marking on my machine's throat plate.  I did tack back and forth to anchor the stitch.  Just be careful if you decide to do this, because your machine may want to eat the fabric.  Ask me how I know!  Now, just sew your seam all the way to the center back edge.

Puffy Seam -  Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

Once your seam is finished your piece(s) will look something like this from the right side.  Can you see that there might just be a pair of pants coming together yet?  This seam is going to need to be flattened for proper finishing.

Iron Setting - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

Get out whatever trusty iron you use, and set it for the Silk setting.  I want it a little warmer than synthetic, but I don't want to melt or compromise the lycra in my fabric, so nothing warmer than silk just to be on the safe side.

I will be ironing from the wrong side (inside) of the pants.  This is the, "Press the seams upward," part of the instructions.  So you are taking your seam allowance and folding it upward towards the top of the yoke piece.  At this point you want to press your iron on to your fabric for 5 seconds.  No steam needed.  As you move across the seam with your iron make sure that the seam is being pulled taught so as to lay flat.  In other words pull at the yoke piece with one hand, and the back piece with the other so that your stitches are flat against the ironing board and no extra fabric is beneath the seam line.

I used my clapper after every pressing.  The clapper will help to quickly draw the heat out of the fabric and keep your seam crisp.

Pressed Yoke Seam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

After pressing your seam will appear flat like this.  Note how the pattern of my fabric is aligned across the seam because of how I lined the notches up when I was laying out the fabric.  This was discussed in the Cutting Out the Pattern post.  

The final step in this phase is to twin needle the yoke edge.  Here are some things you need to know about how this step went.

Schmetz Universal Wide Twin Needle - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

I used a Schmetz Universal Wide Twin Needle.  You can decide how wide you want your twin seam to be, but to me this looked the most like RTW jeans.

I threaded my twin needle according to the directions for my machine.  All machines are different, but I did do a tutorial a while back on twin needle sewing.  You can read that tutorial here.  It might help.

Twin Needle Alignment - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

I am not trying to break my arm patting myself on the back here, but look at that pattern line up across the seams!  I lined the seam up with the 1/4 inch line on the left side of my universal sewing foot.  By following that line, my stitches will stay straight, and my folded under seam allowance will stay under the needles.  Make sure to check that your seam allowance is still folded in the proper direction.

Stitch Length/Twin Needle Function - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans 

I decided on a 3.5 for my stitch length and set my machine for twin needle stitching.  I like this length for top-stitching on jeans.  Now, just sew the length of the seam with your twin needle.

Serger Sewists - If your machine has a coverstitch capability, you will want to use that function here, instead of a twin needle in your straight stitch machine.

Once you have sewn both of your pattern sections (left back/yoke and right back/yoke) you are finished with this step, and should have something that looks somewhat like this.

Finished Back and Yoke Pieces - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans

Your pieces may look a little rippled.  That is fine and normal.  If you give them a little stretch the seams will look flat and wonderful, just as they will look stretched across your backside.

Friends, tell me am I being too in depth here?  I don't want to bore you all to tears, but at the same time, I want even a beginner to be able to understand the process here.

Next Step:  Sewing the Back Pockets

Misty Jeans Sewalong Schedule

Hello, Friends!  Sorry this wasn't up first thing this morning.  I have asked an associate of mine to help make the button for this Sewalong, and I have been waiting and waiting to get it.  So, I made the executive decision to go ahead and post the Misty Jeans Sewalong schedule without the button, and as soon as I get the button or go ahead and make a less cute one myself, I will post that for you all (I will make it this evening if I still haven't received anything).

Here is what our schedule looks like:

October 5-  Cutting out the Pattern
October 7-  Sewing the Yoke
October 9-  Sewing the Back Pockets
October 12-  Adding the Coin Pocket
October 14-  Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges
October 16-  Sewing the Inseam
October 19-  Sewing the Crotch Seam and Mock Fly
October 21-  Sewing the Side Seams and Adjusting the Fit
October 23-  Adding the Elastic Waist, and the Finishing Touches
October 26- The Finished Product

I was going to do two separate postings for serging and straight sewing, but have decided to just include both versions in each step.  As we work along on this Sewalong, please feel free to post any questions here and I will do my best to help.  You can also contact me on Instagram.  If you are sewing along and want to post your progress, you can mark your photos with #mistyjeanssewalong #pandorasews or #stylearcmistyjeans.

Now, let's get ready to sew some jeans!

Misty Jeans Sewalong...Dimensions for the Added Sizes

Hello, friends!  I received a response from Style Arc this morning about sizing on the added sizes.  Chloe and the girls at Style Arc are super busy (have you seen the amount of patterns they have been producing of late?) so let's be understanding that it took a minute to get this information.

These are the finished measurements for the respective pattern sizes:

WAIST SIZES 

34   142cm / 56"

36   148cm / 58.5"

38   154cm / 61.75"

HIP SIZES   

34   160cm /  63"

36   166cm / 65.5"

38   172cm /  67.75"

Now, before you get your knickers in a twist, let's look at these finished measurements a little closer.  This pattern is made to be used with stretch denim.  There is going to be negative ease.  

Style Arc designs the pattern with two inches of negative ease built in.  Now girls, we all know that as you add more cloth, there will be more ease.  Let's say that you bought a stretch denim that has 10% stretch.  (Do you know how to figure this out?)  For every ten inches of that denim you are going to get an inch of stretch.  Everyone following me so far?  So, in the case of the size 38 jeans, your 67.75 inch finished garment is going to have an additional 6.75 (rounded of course) inches of ease.  Hence, it should accommodate up to 74.5 inches in the hips.  However, you want some ease for sitting.  That is why I say that the 38 will accommodate up to 72 inch hips.  Is this making sense to everyone?  One of the pair of Misty's I will be making is from a denim look knit that has considerably more stretch, but I will sew it as if it has 25% stretch to keep from getting pull lines.  I would NEVER assume more than 25% stretch, because as you stretch on the x axis, the y axis may shorten (shorter crotch, shorter legs, pockets doing weird things).

Now, let's take a look at those waist sizes.  If you are like me, you are looking at those waist sizes going whoa, that is pretty big.  During the sewalong, I will be addressing ways to better fit your waist, but I want you to know that the waist sizes shown are actually the measure at the top of the fabric where you will be attaching your elastic.  So this would be the measurement an inch below your natural waist.  But, don't worry too much about waist size.  We want to make sure that the pants will fit your hips.  That said, if you have less than seven inches difference between your hips and your waist, order by your waist size.

If there is still some confusion in my clear as mud offering here, I suggest two other ways to pick your pattern size.  For those of us that already have a jegging or pull-on jean that fits, check to see that your fabric you intend to use has the same-ish amount of stretch, and order based on the finished measurement of the jeans you already own, when they are laying flat and unstretched.

You can also wrap your fabric around yourself at the hips, stretching it to the tightness that you would be comfortable with in your jeans.  Mark the fabric and then lay it flat and unstretched, and measure the distance between your markings.  Then order your pattern based on that size.

Most importantly, don't stress.  Stretchy material is very forgiving.  We will work through all of this and get it figured out.  I picked this very pattern because it is going to be easy to work with and adjust if needed.

Hit me with any questions and I will try to answer them as best I can.  I hope I didn't make this too confusing!

The Style Arc Misty Stretch Pull-On Jean Sewalong

Misty Stretch Pull-On Jeans from stylearc.com

Friends, I know that I have hinted about it but it is time to get down to the knitty gritty.  The Style Arc Misty Jeans Sewalong that I am hosting will be going down in October!  Those fantastic gals over at Style Arc have done something I feel like is truly wonderful for this Sewalong.  They graded the Misty Jean all the way out to a size 38 (72 inch hip ya'll)!!!  You read that right my fellow curvy divas...a size 38.

They are offering the pattern on the Style Arc's Etsy shop as a PDF in the following size packages: 22/24/26, 28/30/32, and 34/36/38.  Don't worry my not so curvy friends, this pattern is available in PDF on the Style Arc's Etsy shop all the way down to a size 4.  If you don't dig PDFs, head on over to Stylearc.com and order the size you need in a paper pattern.  Allow plenty of time Western hemisphere friends, because these patterns are coming from Australia.  While you are there, check out the fabrics they are offering for this pattern, you might find something that you like.

So here's the what what, I plan to sew a denim-look knit pair in a size 30 primarily sewn on my serger, and a stretch denim pair in a size 34 primarily sewn on my straight stitch/regular machine.  Those are the sizes that will be best for my 64 inch hips.  Remember friends, if you are going to make this in a denim look knit that you can size down a couple sizes, because denim look knits are going to contain 25 to 30 percent stretch.

For fabric selection, here are a few of my favorite picks.

From Mood Fabrics:

For the knit version-

Theory Black Stretch Rayon Blend Novelty from Moodfabrics.com

Imagine this great Theory Black Stretch Rayon Blend Novelty knit from Mood Fabrics peaking out from under your boots when the temperatures drop!  Love the texture in this fabric!!!

For the woven stretch version-

Marc Jacobs Dark Blue Cotton-Lycra Denim from Moodfabrics.com

This Cotton-Lycra denim by Marc Jacobs would make a great basic pair of denim pull on jeans.  It has two way stretch, and would be wonderful for every day jeans.

Friends, the official start date for the Sewalong will be October 1st.  On that day I will post the button for this Sewalong, and the schedule.  You have a full month now to gather your pattern, materials, and notions, and get your pattern cut out.  Can't wait to see what we all make, so let's show Style Arc some curvy love and make this pattern!

Rocking the Curvy Sewing Collective Wrapalong

Well friends, in case you haven't heard...I totally rocked the CSC Wrapalong!  

Here is the dress that I made, and you can read the details of the dress back at this post.

There were two other winners as well, and they really rocked their dresses too!

Debbie who blogs at Stitches and Seams made a classic black and white wrap with a twist, using the Gillian pattern from Muse.

Sabrina who blogs at I Sew, I Knit also made a Vogue wrap dress but used a different pattern than I.  I LOVE the print that she used!

Amazingly, Sabrina and I were both first time sewalongers!  

We each received a $50 gift certificate to Smuggler's Daughter!!!  Woot woot!

I have my eye on a few things...

Maggie London Blue Water Lillies from smugglersdaughter.com

 I can already see the floral dress this would make in my mind's eye!

Tyrian Purple Ponte from smugglersdaughter.com

Yes, I may have a purple addiction.

Teal Sweater Knit from smugglersdaughter.com

Because I need teal leggings!

Congratulations to my fellow wrapalong winners!!!  I can't wait to see what you get from Smugglers Daughter.