Monday, October 12, 2015

Adding the Coin Pocket - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Hello, Friends!  The next step in making our Style Arc Misty Jeans is to add the coin pocket.  The directions state, "For the coin pocket fold the seams inward and stitch with a twin needle across the pocket top, pin the coin pocket where marked on the right side pocket bearer, once in place stitch across the base and twin needle each side."

Here are the pattern pieces that we will be working with.  The Pattern Pieces are named the Right Front Pocket and Coin Pocket on the pattern pieces, however the Right Front Pocket is referred to as the Right Side Pocket Bearer in the instructions.

Right Front Pocket Piece and Coin Pocket Piece

The first thing that we want to do is to press back the seam allowance at the top of the coin pocket.  So, set your iron to the silk setting, get out your trusty clapper if you have one, and press that seam allowance back.  A little tip here.  When you are dealing with fabrics that may be hard to fold, if you will warm the fabric with the iron first and then fold the fabric, it will help the fabric keep a sharp crease, and make it easier to press the crease flat.  Does that make sense?  Just don't burn your fingers!

Top Edge of Coin Pocket Pressed Down

Now, we want to run a twin needle stitch across the top of the coin pocket.  Our twin needle should still be in our machine, but just for a reminder we are using a Universal Wide Twin Needle (Size 6.0),  I am still using a 3.5 stitch length.  Somehow, I managed to not take a picture of this step.  I lined the folded edge of the pocket up with the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot, and ran a twin needle stitch all the way across the top of the pocket.

Once the top of the pocket is stitched, it is time to move on to pressing the side seam allowances of the pocket down.  Once you have done that, this is what your coin pocket will look like (pardon the blur).

Pressed Back Edges after Twin Needle Stitching Top of Coin Pocket

Now, we need to pin the Coin Pocket to the right side of the Right Front Pocket.  Make sure that your folded seam allowances stay folded in when you do this.  Line your Coin Pocket up with your markings on your Right Pocket Piece and pin the Coin Pocket in place  I only pinned the pocket at the top corners.

Coin Pocket Pinned to Right Front Pocket/Pocket Bearer

With our Coin Pocket pinned in to place, it is time to twin needle stitch down the left and right side of the pocket.  We will stitch and reverse stitch at the beginning and end of each seam to anchor the stitches.  You want to start your stitches on the top row of twin needle stitches that run across the top of your coin pocket.

Twin Needle Stitching the Coin Pocket to the Right Pocket Piece

Coin Pocket Twin Needle Stitched to the Right  Pocket Piece

Now, we want to set our machine up to do whichever form of stretch stitch that we have chosen to use.  In my case I am using the lightning bolt zig zag with a 3.0 stitch length.  You should also remove your twin needle from your machine, and insert your Universal 80/12 needle, or whatever needle is appropriate for your chosen fabric.  Refer back to the Sewing the Yoke post if you need help remembering which needle to use with your fabric.

Lightning Bolt Stretch Stitch at 3.0 Stitch Length

Now it is time to stitch across the base of the coin pocket to close the pocket bottom.  I once again have lined the fabric up at the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot.  You want to start your stitches about 1/2 inch from the Coin Pocket on the Right Pocket Piece.  Stitch and reverse to anchor your stitches.  Now stitch all the was across the base of the coin pocket and about a 1/2 inch beyond, remembering to reverse your stitches at the end of the seam as well.

Stitching the Base of the Coin Pocket

Once you have finished, your pattern piece will look something like this.  You can either snip your threads close on the front side, or pull your threads through to the back and snip them.

Finished Front of Right Pocket Piece with Coin Pocket Attached

View of the Back of the Coin Pocket Attached to the Right Front Pocket Piece

That finishes off this step.  How are you all coming along on your sewing?  I just can't wait to see what everyone does with their Misty Pull-On Jeans.

Next Step: Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges


  1. Thanks for posting and nice manageable bite-size chunks that I can follow.

    1. You are welcome. My intention with this Sewalong was to take it nice and easy, so everyone has plenty of time to catch up and follow along.

  2. I am lagging behind, but hope to catch up in the next few days. I cut out today, and I needed to make some alterations before I could cut, based on my wearable muslin. I had sized up so I could be sure of getting my big bum through the waistband, but it turned out this was not necessary.

    1. Maggie, it is perfectly ok to lag behind. The great thing about sewalongs is that you can go at your own pace. The feedback I have been getting from other sewists is that they have had to size down as well. Some of that is going to depend on fabric choice of course.