Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Sewing the Inseam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Well Friends, so much for one post a day to get caught up!  Today let's talk about sewing the inseam of the Misty Pull-On Jeans.  This is actually a pretty simple step.

First let's match up the two sets of pattern pieces.  You want to match left front pattern piece aka the piece with the coin pocket to the back right pattern piece.  If you are looking at the back pieces on their right sides (right as in correct or the part that would be seen from the outside) then the back right (directional in this context) pattern piece would be the one where the wide part of the yoke is on the left and the outer narrow part of the yoke (hip edge) is on the right hand side.  Does that make sense?  Once those two pieces are paired, you know that the remaining two pieces pair together.

Align the Notches as You Sew

With right sides together align the inseam for sewing start at the crotch end of the seam (the pointy end) and align the fabric matching the notches as you go.  I don't pin the inseam.  I get the crotch end started with a lightning bolt stitch with a 3/8 inch seam allowance, and sew through the curve with the lightning bolt stitch.  Once I have exited the curve and will be sewing the straight line that goes all the way to the ankle, with my needle out of the fabric, I switch to a straight stitch and sew a 2.5 length straight stitch all the way down this line.  As I go down the line, I use the notches along the way as the spot where I am holding the fabric together to insure that things line up properly.

The reason that I switch between stitches, is I need the stretch across the curve that the lightning bolt gives, but at the straight part of the inseam there is no stretch in the direction of the stitches, and I don't like the way a lightning bolt stitch feels rubbing against my inner thighs.

I don't know about you all, but one line of stitching is not enough to convince me these pants will stay sewn and on my derriere, so I go back and sew a second line of stitching at the 1/4 inch mark for security.

Repeat these steps with your other set of pattern pieces and this step is complete.

Serger Sewists-  You can serge this entire seam, and there will be no need to go back and sew a second row for security.

Hope this set of instructions is clear, I was lite on photos.

Up Next:  Sewing the Crotch Seam

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