Monday, October 19, 2015

Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong

Hello, Friends.  The plague still exists in our home, however I feel like enough of the fog has cleared that I will still be able to post a semi-intelligible bit of instruction, so here goes:

Initially, we are working with the front pattern pieces, and the pocket facing pieces.


With right sides together we are going to stitch each pocket facing to it's respective front pattern piece.

Your notches will help you to remember this, but this seam has a 1/4 inch seam allowance instead of the normal 3/8 inch that most of the rest of the pattern has.  Style Arc tends to use a 1/4 inch allowance on what they call internal seams.

I am still using the lightning bolt stretch stitch here, because the bottom of this faux pocket will need to be able to stretch.

Serging sewists- this is a great application for your serger, just make sure that you follow the 1/4 inch seam.

Once the seam has been sewn, we need to flip the pocket facing to the inside and press it.  Remember to use your silk setting because of the lycra.

This is what the back side will look like after you press the pocket facing to the inside of the garment.

I ended up shearing my fabric at this seam.  For the life of me, I am not sure how this happened.  There are some thin spots in this fabric so I think that it is probably because I just sewed in the perfect spot.  Doesn't leave me real confident that the jeans are going to contain my arse though.  Since I will be twin needle sewing this seam, I am not going to worry about the sheared spot.  The twin needle edge should give me plenty of hold.

Here we twin needle the edge of the pocket.  I line the edge up with the 1/4 inch mark on my presser foot.

Once the edge has been sewn it looks all wonky and rippled.  But, with the magic of a good iron and clapper...

We are able to press the seam back to it's original shape.

Here is what the back of this seam will look like once it is finished.

Now, we move on to the next step which is attaching the front pockets to the pocket facings.  We will need the piece that we just finished working on along with the left and right front pockets.

We need to pin the pockets to their pocket facings.  Remember that your coin pocket goes on the left side, and the plain one goes on the right side.

Make sure that your pocket notches line up the notches in the pocket facings.

Now we are going to sew this seam with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  To me, this seam would be considered an internal seam, however the seam allowance marked on the pattern is clearly 3/8 inch for this seam.

Serger Sewists- This is a great seam to use your serger as well, just remember to jump back to using 3/8 seam allowance, and make sure you don't accidentally run your front pattern piece through the knife as you are sewing!  Oh the horror!!!

After we have sewn the pockets to the facings, we need to the pocket at the side seam and the waist seam.  Think of this like you are closing the pocket up so that when you sew the side seams and the elastic in to the waist, the pocket won't get bunched or move out of place at these seams.  I used a straight stitch, and sewed these just shy of 3/8 of an inch.  You want your stitches to start just prior to the point where the pocket starts, and stitch on past where the pocket ends.  I went about 3 stitches past, and started about 3 stitches prior.  I used a 3.0 stitch length.  

Once, I was finished this is what the front of the left pocket and left front piece looked like.

This is a view of the back of the left front pocket and left front pattern piece sewn together.

And here is a picture of the finished right pocket sewn to the right front pattern piece.

Friends, I hope I was able to keep everything straight through my brain fog and cold medicine stupor.  Tell me, how are your Misty Jeans coming along?  Let me know if you have any questions.  

I will try to get one post up each day until I have caught back up with the schedule.

Up Next:  Sewing the Inseam


  1. Very clear instructions. Glad to hear that you are a bit better. Hop your cold goes soon. Xx

    1. Thanks, MoR! Hope everyone at your house is getting better as well!