tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23607733231170187982024-03-06T22:34:05.128-05:00Pandora Sews Plus Size ClothesAlicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-79754169347395984972016-09-12T20:52:00.000-04:002016-09-12T20:52:07.180-04:00Cashmerette's New Pattern - The Harrison Shirt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! I know it has been a minute, but those of you who follow me on Instagram know that I have moved, sold the old house, and bought a new house. When we arrived at the new house, there were chores to be done outside of the normal unpacking. More on that in another post.<br />
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At the moment, my sewing machines are all still packed away. I will get to unpacking them, but first I have to get some furnishings to set them on. Long story short, we donated about 80 percent of our furniture from the house in Indiana, so I now need to replace it.<br />
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Since I can't sew I have been thinking about where I want to take my sewing this Fall and Winter. Sewing for living in Tennessee will be a little different than sewing for living in Indiana. It doesn't get as frigid here. I will need to think more about layering, and less about making my individual pieces warm and toasty. With that in mind, I have been working on a plus size pattern capsule to build my wardrobe from.<br />
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Last night, I was thinking about what pattern I would use for the perfect classic women's white shirt. All of the button down shirt patterns that I have tried in the past have been kind of meh. Then this morning I find my Instagram feed going crazy with the announcement of Jenny's/Cashmerette's new <a href="https://shop.cashmerette.com/collections/patterns/products/harrison-shirt-printed-pattern">Harrison Shirt pattern</a>. It was like divine intervention.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.cashmerette.com/collections/patterns/products/harrison-shirt-printed-pattern" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhgAB5hCP8cWuPUQ_lRxNuH44C8-DSsezGW9sfxrQPHByWBKvN1OVyNDhsH3z-7jrDUIltVJVhF55mEsnpj4OYnR6EO3xempryuso3u8WBbxH6Cf_oe3PNHEDe18tSGz2r2ZqZZHn74E/s640/CashmeretteHarrisonShirt-7_1024x1024.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from https://shop.cashmerette.com</td></tr>
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<br />This pattern has so much to love ya'll! With princess seams, a two-piece collar, and back yoke what is not to love! I see this in a Liberty print, in a masculine striped oxford, but first to find the perfect white shirting for a classic white shirt.<div>
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Congratulations to Jenny for creating another fantastic pattern!!! Can't wait to get my pattern in the mail (it is also available as a PDF) and maybe get my sewing room set up so that I can actually make this awesome shirt.<br /><br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-80936644955126544682016-06-01T09:39:00.000-04:002016-06-01T09:39:52.030-04:00Stressed <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! I wish this was a great sewing entry, but this is just me being random, so if you are here for the sewing, you are welcome to exit now, I won't get my feelings hurt.<br />
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Today is my son's last day of Third Grade! How did that happen? Seems like just yesterday I was dropping him off at his first day of Mom's Day Out. My fiercely independent child was looking at all the other kids clinging to their mothers with what can only be described as a, "You guys are idiots," look on his face. In all our years of various activities he has never suffered from separation anxiety. Chock that up to being an only child, I guess. This morning was no different. I thought he might be trepidatious with the upcoming move, but no...he hopped out of the car ready to seize the last day of school.<br />
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Now, I should be working on my ever mounting do list, but here I sit writing. In times of chaos and extreme stress I have to exert myself in some creative manner in order to stay sane. Since I can't really sew anything right now, or paint anything, writing is the outlet of choice. The great thing about writing is, it doesn't require much. Pen and paper, or a computer, lipstick and a mirror...you get the idea. When all the markers and paints and fabric are packed away, there is always some way to write.<br />
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In the coming week we will transition from Indiana to Tennessee. We are moving to the Chattanooga area (forgot to mention that last time). Our house has been on the market for 12 days and we have had 12 showings. I know it is only a matter of time until we have an acceptable offer, but STRESS!!! Please send happy vibes my way for the house to sale quickly. Poor St. Joseph doesn't want to stay buried in the front yard after all!<br />
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If over the next few months weird non-sewing entries pop on the blog, please forgive me. It is just me stress reducing. I promise that sewing will be happening again soon (hopefully we can find a new house quickly and the machines won't sit in storage too long). Until then hugs to you all!<br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-37539720195621211972016-05-16T15:06:00.001-04:002016-05-16T15:06:44.991-04:00It's Alive!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! After a rash of emails and comments I figured I had better touch base to let you all know that I am alright. So much is going on that my head has been spinning for the last couple months. Where to start?<br />
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Those of you who follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/pandorasews/">Instagram</a> know that I have been doing some sewing, but certainly not up to my normal level of productiveness. Here are some of the things that I have sewn lately:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmn2PtK5nrCW1k8tl-A8UlOxsI_IQxbvLgzYnLL6kTPEY_qzOdzw_M0xz7MTxqX9nEHIL5FIUkx7HLeP8REi3Hxcioctkt3DS_oFrsuNQJeqkVjT6Q9BICbPMdVbCUX4cEJLp5BFAv3TY/s1600/M5640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmn2PtK5nrCW1k8tl-A8UlOxsI_IQxbvLgzYnLL6kTPEY_qzOdzw_M0xz7MTxqX9nEHIL5FIUkx7HLeP8REi3Hxcioctkt3DS_oFrsuNQJeqkVjT6Q9BICbPMdVbCUX4cEJLp5BFAv3TY/s400/M5640.jpg" width="328" /></a></div>
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This is McCall's M5640. I sewed the pattern in a lovely multicolor cotton voile that is so soft and cool. This is going to be my go to Summer pajama pattern.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSopI6KSiXYHfDiljc0ajEPWdMCSrldWqExVSHmHfAss-jFWoKrLebUyaInJuK0fXdecouceeHJfSCev9PXXM2psvDfn3OWJso8eAmeIaDG8H82PPPr9kv-NsadR9GxoOPJ3Gt2Wlo_VA/s1600/M5640+modified.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSopI6KSiXYHfDiljc0ajEPWdMCSrldWqExVSHmHfAss-jFWoKrLebUyaInJuK0fXdecouceeHJfSCev9PXXM2psvDfn3OWJso8eAmeIaDG8H82PPPr9kv-NsadR9GxoOPJ3Gt2Wlo_VA/s400/M5640+modified.jpg" width="397" /></a></div>
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This is a modified version of McCall's M5640 that I made for my Mother-in-Law for Mother's day. She loves wearing snap front dusters over her night clothes, so I decided to make her a pretty one. The picture here really doesn't do the fabric justice.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpU0RGi_P_-MQM9VBMsLLdwr4v4lP_GUpGs41sQDanbQe93TjS-lRwu7YzIHSd_BNzE5dO-DlCBVUWOzb4ndbwRWrTPzscYjbd1N8U3el5uXB6sVzrIZfFP3h0VWdJO55NYgl7Of8e6M8/s1600/M6960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpU0RGi_P_-MQM9VBMsLLdwr4v4lP_GUpGs41sQDanbQe93TjS-lRwu7YzIHSd_BNzE5dO-DlCBVUWOzb4ndbwRWrTPzscYjbd1N8U3el5uXB6sVzrIZfFP3h0VWdJO55NYgl7Of8e6M8/s400/M6960.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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This top is McCall's M6960. I have been wanting to sew this pattern for a while. Though I am not one to fear showing my cleavage this one went a little too low even for me, so I sewed in a piece of lace as a modesty panel, and have adjusted the neckline on the pattern, because I will be making this one again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqyRiPfOH_ezJgKlNHraoCRc0XYnPKAYbw-3BqK1FhBttNAM9jzxHH7hAkuRjTcx2uLymit-De6t9RhEYkZVb8K2SG8kfBKQI7gfbo3WIpQ2VVDfxhrBdDl_gWk4aNsDCYQQsmVLj8CS8/s1600/M6970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqyRiPfOH_ezJgKlNHraoCRc0XYnPKAYbw-3BqK1FhBttNAM9jzxHH7hAkuRjTcx2uLymit-De6t9RhEYkZVb8K2SG8kfBKQI7gfbo3WIpQ2VVDfxhrBdDl_gWk4aNsDCYQQsmVLj8CS8/s400/M6970.jpg" width="396" /></a></div>
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This final top is McCall's M6970 in a seersucker fabric that I had purchased from Hancock as they were going out of business. I had a really hard time deciding how to center the stripes on this top. I love the v notch in the neckline though and am really pleased with how this creation turned out.</div>
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In addition to these items, I have also sewn myself some self drafted chambray shorts that I intend to live in over the coming warmer months.</div>
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In the midst of all this sewing I decided to make myself a bathing suit. I went with making Butterick B5795. That turned in to a wadder very quickly. The bridge (area between the twins) of this pattern was a full 4 inches wide. Who has that much space between their boobs? I certainly don't!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVDulFH5lUgvkuQJKLs6p6RYjtM7_-ZbN9romMxqBb3GjMEhfbpSJZFa5XZpOa_7ase-nBOLxe9-jI0W3wND1QPQbKwR_Ejco8sDqHg5Jm8A5cqGfMQSyjFAzITAoSy-MOLO-6dD9cVI/s1600/B5795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVDulFH5lUgvkuQJKLs6p6RYjtM7_-ZbN9romMxqBb3GjMEhfbpSJZFa5XZpOa_7ase-nBOLxe9-jI0W3wND1QPQbKwR_Ejco8sDqHg5Jm8A5cqGfMQSyjFAzITAoSy-MOLO-6dD9cVI/s400/B5795.jpg" width="390" /></a></div>
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I was actually rocking along quite well with my sewing and then this happened two days before we left for vacation (and five minutes before the listing agent for our house was set to arrive).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-kwmZupXETvLiQaiZsjRWratDlB6GTN31RIp1x2X6mTpxuRarHA07Rf2nwxg8Hj_4FLeSJxpF_DEQoRTDNvgARjnXDNHdYQPG2iljmXX46mrWStyLgOu-ZzEmz-hfA1qJ5HrLHH2ptc/s1600/Casted+Ankle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-kwmZupXETvLiQaiZsjRWratDlB6GTN31RIp1x2X6mTpxuRarHA07Rf2nwxg8Hj_4FLeSJxpF_DEQoRTDNvgARjnXDNHdYQPG2iljmXX46mrWStyLgOu-ZzEmz-hfA1qJ5HrLHH2ptc/s400/Casted+Ankle.jpg" width="392" /></a></div>
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When you have hyper-mobile joints, these kinds of things seem to happen to you at the most inopportune time. Not that there is exactly an opportune time to rupture a ligament. I spent most of my vacation rolling around on a knee walker. But hey, vacation is vacation and a little thing like a busted ankle wasn't going to hold me down!<br />
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In other news our house goes on the market any day now, and we will soon be heading to Tennessee where my husband will start a new job next week. My son and I will join him once school is out for the Summer. Unfortunately, that means that I probably will not be sewing for a few months. We will be in temporary housing through July 31st. On top of that my precious sewing room has been turned in to an office for staging the house, and my sewing stuff will be in storage until we purchase and move in to a house in Tennessee. <br />
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Now, that I have gotten you all caught up on what has been happening here, I just also want to say that I am sorry for disappearing on you all. I haven't been commenting on other blogs. I have had invitations to collaborate that I have had to turn down, and I feel like I have been an all around awful bloggy friend. To my dear friend Andie...I know it has been forever. I will not leave for Tennessee without rectifying the situation.<br />
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So, friends are any of you in Tennessee? I am looking forward to being close to <a href="http://www.sirsfabric.com/">Sir's Fabric</a>! I always wanted to go there when I lived in Huntsville but never had a reason to go. Any fabric stores in Central Tennessee that I should be aware of? I am a ball of nerves and excitement and happiness and jitters, for this new adventure. That said, I can't wait to get settled and get reconnected with all my friends here in the sewing community, too!</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-14525092556311466122016-02-05T12:33:00.000-05:002016-02-05T12:33:26.164-05:00Plus Size Swimwear and Resort Wear Rant<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! I just wanted to throw up a quick post to let you know that I am still here. We are in the middle of prepping our house for sell in the Spring and I have been painting and sorting, and doing other general things to get ready for the selling season.<br />
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Because of all this, things have been a little quiet on the sewing front, and probably will be for most of February (though I did manage to get a little bit of fabric shopping in this week). Priorities! ;)<br />
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I am already thinking Spring and vacation sewing, how about you all? I am hopeful that we can get a vacation in before the house mania starts. In thinking about this, I pose this question...Do you have a favorite RTW brand for resort wear? When I think resort wear, I think sophisticated linen separates, flowy gauzy beach wear, and maxi dresses that can go from the pool, to walking around town, to a nice dinner out. Is that too much to ask?<br />
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When you search plus size resort wear you get a lot of knit shorts and tops. You get some denim shorts that are far too short for gams that have dimples and jiggles (I mean if you are comfortable enough in your skin to show your dimples go for it and I got nothing but love for you, but I just can't). Thank Heavens I can sew my own clothes. In the past prepping for vacation was a huge source of stress for me, but now I just get together my patterns and fabrics and don't have to have too many meltdowns standing in front of a dressing room mirror.<br />
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On that note, let's talk about swimsuits for a minute. When vacation pops in to my head no matter where I am headed or what the temperature/climate there is, I always assume that there will be somewhere to take a dip. Snow be damned, there better be a heated pool or at least hot tub. I am an Aquarius after all. <strike>It almost my Birthday, my b-b-b-birthday!</strike> My ideal swimsuit is one that holds the twins up, but doesn't let them pop out of the top because I am actually quite active in the water. It also doesn't smash the twins flat like my competitive swimming suits do. That's great for swimming laps, but it isn't a good look. It is a one piece suit that flares at the hips. This suit also has real board shorts to pair with it. I don't need sandy chub rub at the beach. Just sayin!<br />
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Right now I wear a Lands End halter swim top similar to this one (this one is actually a T-back, but it is very similar):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBeORwdThE5N_oqWbhAatBMOeFWEgsnrH3XoP0xODBW-DXrv-vnZogjPQeX5d73VT0SjolSPj3p4X1ZOMoYIt-9yoRduw29Dj1V0j875gIjp9aT-n7oZBiQ2DArw7dGZHNVGUYUY20n-I/s1600/464920_A715_FF_BLA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBeORwdThE5N_oqWbhAatBMOeFWEgsnrH3XoP0xODBW-DXrv-vnZogjPQeX5d73VT0SjolSPj3p4X1ZOMoYIt-9yoRduw29Dj1V0j875gIjp9aT-n7oZBiQ2DArw7dGZHNVGUYUY20n-I/s640/464920_A715_FF_BLA.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source: Landsend.com</td></tr>
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I pair that top with a bikini bottom, and some big and tall men's board shorts that are not flattering at all. This top could stand to be a size smaller in the bust, and about 2 sizes larger in the hips. Because the bust is slightly too large, I get serious chafing under my arms. The hips are too tight til the weight of the water stretches them out, and then it is fine. The men's board shorts are made for men, so they have no waist. I cinch it in as much as I can, but then I have tons of extra fabric bulging around my waist. Can you picture it? But, it has a bit of modesty, so I live with it. <br />
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This year I really want to design and sew my own swimsuit and board shorts. I actually wanted to do it last year, but...I got complacent with the other suit and didn't. Does anyone know a good source for material for board shorts? I don't want to go with rip stop, but I do want something that is going to dry fast. I suppose I could tailor some too large men's shorts instead of cinching them. Hmmmmm.<br />
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Ok, that is enough ranting in what was supposed to just be a quick post to say hello. Tell me about your adventures in swimwear sewing or shopping. I can't be the only one.</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-20818930351775803652016-01-18T07:58:00.000-05:002016-01-18T07:58:08.070-05:00When a Blanket Becomes a Sweater - The Centerfield Raglan Hack<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, with snow on the ground and temperatures in the single digits I tend to walk the blanket aisles at some of my favorite stores.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdIOU2iMeDPXyl02n0RflhXUZpcCFvGJf124JmwwLBqtG0I_1mWd3DQ-32otP4MkeUz0woNBn92UZzJHJ81guyIs3bC7tVduchSK-l5zHmIImMp3imCnr81CiiUWBRnvQPxXrtallkN8/s1600/IMG_20160111_104329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdIOU2iMeDPXyl02n0RflhXUZpcCFvGJf124JmwwLBqtG0I_1mWd3DQ-32otP4MkeUz0woNBn92UZzJHJ81guyIs3bC7tVduchSK-l5zHmIImMp3imCnr81CiiUWBRnvQPxXrtallkN8/s640/IMG_20160111_104329.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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When my eyes laid upon this blanket, I knew I had to have it. To make a warm sweater of course! With all that great texture and those argyle designs, whats not to love?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeLafvrkOoLKwW2V7d-pOH5tSgjCyjghHLvFmz1azge98jOS1kiaKm1rDOa6SV0pfcQ-KZpcyiikuAL15exqEQKSP1BUsDmWuc7423J5rVp7mVB3A4iZuSrwcsRqlfN7gUmcgWw0rU1E/s1600/IMG_20160111_141533433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeLafvrkOoLKwW2V7d-pOH5tSgjCyjghHLvFmz1azge98jOS1kiaKm1rDOa6SV0pfcQ-KZpcyiikuAL15exqEQKSP1BUsDmWuc7423J5rVp7mVB3A4iZuSrwcsRqlfN7gUmcgWw0rU1E/s640/IMG_20160111_141533433.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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I pondered how to make the sweater I desired from this piece of fabric. A cardigan that I could throw on over most anything was what I really desired.<br />
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Then it hit me. I would use an oldie but a goodie. A pattern that I had made many times and was definitely a TNT pattern. I decided to use my <a href="http://greenstylecreations.com/products/centerfield-raglan-t-shirt">Green Style Creations Centerfield Raglan T-Shirt</a> pattern. Rather than cutting the front piece on the fold, I lined it up so that the trim was used as the edges of the piece, but I knew that I needed a bit of extra in front since the pieces would not be connected, so I lined the trim up on what would have been the fold line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpl0cThOXftDnqi_rmfsARuXJUy9y-eT1MZIDqSreKzXtiEaE0fFUISyTFvEcmyHeor1IEJp2QwW2WYo0MuVv1-znC6uaHu8O12q0LAfUJ-OogfQ_kLkcOnTe7NCO7RdYXCJdrcfdUdrk/s1600/IMG_1576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpl0cThOXftDnqi_rmfsARuXJUy9y-eT1MZIDqSreKzXtiEaE0fFUISyTFvEcmyHeor1IEJp2QwW2WYo0MuVv1-znC6uaHu8O12q0LAfUJ-OogfQ_kLkcOnTe7NCO7RdYXCJdrcfdUdrk/s640/IMG_1576.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then flipped the pattern piece over and lined it up on the other side of the blanket. These blankets were not made perfectly and they stretched some as they were folded on the store shelf, so it was a real hassle to try to straighten the grain (so to speak). Note: I did not wash the blanket before making the sweater as I was afraid it would go further off kilter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoSYBMqwbsuADqxYw4mXQE1PmTQcapHWtUUtKgm09zk3JE0szYZi1o1bSUCrBBNkkS8pDCyNg2vAZrgq_hXR6Kzge14VoGJ5Ojvci8HAMbfuYBFx6V603IajsqPrnhqXAUFctccAzO0U/s1600/IMG_1580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoSYBMqwbsuADqxYw4mXQE1PmTQcapHWtUUtKgm09zk3JE0szYZi1o1bSUCrBBNkkS8pDCyNg2vAZrgq_hXR6Kzge14VoGJ5Ojvci8HAMbfuYBFx6V603IajsqPrnhqXAUFctccAzO0U/s640/IMG_1580.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the back piece, I wanted to get the fabric lined up nicely so that the center of the back was dead center between the two rows of argyle. So, instead of cutting the back piece on the fold I cut one side, flipped the pattern piece and cut the other side. Still resulting in one cut pattern piece, but giving me better control over the blanket/fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7s3m8tOVnEvNz405bjLZoZdFRjKKd9MBmhc9tiY4oRlayzEnYMIRYeyCao-DlYvWxfH-19T4PhUwJSYUk2s7PupZt_NH6_tg_vR81OFIa9N-f_DK9jCJ6uYYVr5sa873piyhxRB02sxo/s1600/IMG_1586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7s3m8tOVnEvNz405bjLZoZdFRjKKd9MBmhc9tiY4oRlayzEnYMIRYeyCao-DlYvWxfH-19T4PhUwJSYUk2s7PupZt_NH6_tg_vR81OFIa9N-f_DK9jCJ6uYYVr5sa873piyhxRB02sxo/s640/IMG_1586.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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I had decided that I wanted the back of the sweater to be slightly longer than the front with a side slit. I forgot to cut the extra bit for turning back the side slit, but I did remember to use the trim bottom as the amount of extra for the back, making it easy to line the pattern up straight but get that extra bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIkA1bA0mNw3eRzWrxrTSD8bvk_ZEcEvgPD11eq83I-tIM8K9T9CJo_lFxmSJ-OEJ7JbsWrY3t1xTqp99xlNpGnrPaBXTefwTI6cPxCCJW2WNl3KU0gzzgomm3l43pnLWK73x5p_rcj34/s1600/IMG_1590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIkA1bA0mNw3eRzWrxrTSD8bvk_ZEcEvgPD11eq83I-tIM8K9T9CJo_lFxmSJ-OEJ7JbsWrY3t1xTqp99xlNpGnrPaBXTefwTI6cPxCCJW2WNl3KU0gzzgomm3l43pnLWK73x5p_rcj34/s640/IMG_1590.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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I knew that I also wanted to have the argyle stripe run the length of the sleeve. Unfortunately, that meant that I could not use the trim in it's original form which was a major bummer! Instead I had to line the sleeve piece up on two separate areas of the blanket. I marked where the argyle lines were on the pattern so that I could make my mirror image sleeve pieces have proper alignment of the pattern. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of this step, because in truth I was not planning on blogging this blanket sweater. I did take a picture of the bottom of the pattern piece to remind myself that I folded the bottom of the sleeve piece back to the short line since I was going to add trim back to the bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjWT6MU_IFSytLpCDZhdVoE-7Gy3xw0pESyyxctiWo73nfNWOiR9yfGDM2mFtMROrxgS1iyBEy1tuYBZ97tVY8xdV42B7_Xr_97rTxWqB8i6EmUiYgqaQeKB7DOxRTTGl54TrpxlGfDY/s1600/IMG_1593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjWT6MU_IFSytLpCDZhdVoE-7Gy3xw0pESyyxctiWo73nfNWOiR9yfGDM2mFtMROrxgS1iyBEy1tuYBZ97tVY8xdV42B7_Xr_97rTxWqB8i6EmUiYgqaQeKB7DOxRTTGl54TrpxlGfDY/s640/IMG_1593.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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My last bit of cutting was to get the trim piece for the neck and two pieces of trim for the bottom of the sleeves. I cut a piece of the ribbed edge the size of the pattern neck band piece plus four inches to account for the extra trim in the front. For the sleeves, I just lined the sleeve bottom piece up on the trim and cut two pieces of trim the same size.<br />
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Assembly of the sweater was pretty easy. I used the serger (which just happened to have light and dark grey thread already in) to attach the sleeves to the front and back pieces. I then attached the trim to the bottom of the sleeves and serged from the sleeve bottom to the lower edge of the hem in one long sleeve, stopping about three inches before the bottom edge of the shortest/front hem. Next, I serged the collar on to the sweater.<br />
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Finally, I did a little bit of hand sewing to turn back the side slits and turn the collar in at the front edge. That was it. Between cutting, serging and hand sewing I ended up having about 2.5 hours in this sweater. When I was sewing the Centerfield Raglan on the regular last year, I could cut and sew the shirt in an hour flat. It's a great pattern that uses minimal fabric (which was another reason I chose it for this sweater).<br />
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What was that? You want to see how it turned out? Sorry...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpjhqrUBLbBf9Yn3zxrU4Eislt9XnVXgb_QTOwk-Zw9wM4YB-buM_drnj1L2teL-74US-2kHJd7cWEeiFSRcjtjQ1rrDbAuwqo4ad6BydKFrYLdVlYOilwnK0vzb0L3mjcPvkt62eD64/s1600/IMG_20160114_123106608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpjhqrUBLbBf9Yn3zxrU4Eislt9XnVXgb_QTOwk-Zw9wM4YB-buM_drnj1L2teL-74US-2kHJd7cWEeiFSRcjtjQ1rrDbAuwqo4ad6BydKFrYLdVlYOilwnK0vzb0L3mjcPvkt62eD64/s640/IMG_20160114_123106608.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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Here is the blanket sweater on the dress form. I don't have a name for the dress form yet. Any ideas?<br />
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OK, since I am such a dedicated blogger I braved the sleet covered porch to take some actual photos. Don't get used to it, and please forgive me if the pictures aren't up to normal par.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1lkKcMa_Ebd1lR5MCtxBP0RZ-XyNA4S-OsLn1IWarz7sgJ90wznifSg5MK3FY646d_FFcYfmgAxSSFf8F3QG8D_Yz1tCqxdqu-Fzp_A3840SDb2XsemQwQZRjawvoqy41YLBYBcrUiA/s1600/IMG_1594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1lkKcMa_Ebd1lR5MCtxBP0RZ-XyNA4S-OsLn1IWarz7sgJ90wznifSg5MK3FY646d_FFcYfmgAxSSFf8F3QG8D_Yz1tCqxdqu-Fzp_A3840SDb2XsemQwQZRjawvoqy41YLBYBcrUiA/s640/IMG_1594.JPG" width="540" /></a></div>
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In this picture, I am holding on to the rail to keep from falling. The look on my face is something along the lines of hurry up an take the picture before I fall and bust me arse!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXj7p6eOcpbg8dPAnMaZbDqPIQq8qKztJyeixPKeSD01wjL8leulAWwS4S48CMMU9dcSbAQwV5mFUcEgdjugeYLvENltps6ATLk7eNE5rDMEpsDrDZNgCc5MvT4-X86SR81gxV7zC9f0/s1600/IMG_1597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXj7p6eOcpbg8dPAnMaZbDqPIQq8qKztJyeixPKeSD01wjL8leulAWwS4S48CMMU9dcSbAQwV5mFUcEgdjugeYLvENltps6ATLk7eNE5rDMEpsDrDZNgCc5MvT4-X86SR81gxV7zC9f0/s640/IMG_1597.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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In this picture I know the sweater looks uneven, but that is because of my stance. I have both feet up against the bottom of the rail for stability. The sweater is actually quite straight, though it could use a good steam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigrtHgYtf5M7xPw142HI_OCWPUUfgKuUYS-MVHrMcSIkzB0bbDCGbi0JtAjS2HwBAN50pGJgir4bmoyVFpB0npdShJa-mEZc_hJ_Kb1u9HLtZPvby7v5EukFcV_Enj5SHZHrrj7n5WYAc/s1600/IMG_1600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigrtHgYtf5M7xPw142HI_OCWPUUfgKuUYS-MVHrMcSIkzB0bbDCGbi0JtAjS2HwBAN50pGJgir4bmoyVFpB0npdShJa-mEZc_hJ_Kb1u9HLtZPvby7v5EukFcV_Enj5SHZHrrj7n5WYAc/s640/IMG_1600.JPG" width="462" /></a></div>
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Here you can see how the sleeve turned out. I am thrilled with how the argyle aligned down the sleeve. You can also see my compromised side slit. Next time, and there will be a next time, I will plan better for the side slit and keep it from looking so wonky. It too could use a good steam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88QyRzDsPQWsXFb6v0LPwKjN6DzDWMMsf8lL0DHSzjAf5gshjQb8K240vA4cLuh_uIhKYhw21_Bc3Vh5sssMzqESYRdsZhBNnSF8yt9RY9_d1sXIHl9_KWCKITEVlNa2M2xkswRMtF_A/s1600/IMG_1601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88QyRzDsPQWsXFb6v0LPwKjN6DzDWMMsf8lL0DHSzjAf5gshjQb8K240vA4cLuh_uIhKYhw21_Bc3Vh5sssMzqESYRdsZhBNnSF8yt9RY9_d1sXIHl9_KWCKITEVlNa2M2xkswRMtF_A/s640/IMG_1601.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lastly, here is the collar. The left side is a little ripply. I think that a good steam will also help here.<br />
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If you are interested in taking on a blanket sweater yourself, <a href="http://www.target.com/p/threshold-sweater-knit-blanket/-/A-15581059#prodSlot=medium_1_1&term=sweater+blanket">here</a> is where I got the blanket (in radiant grey). Though there are all kinds of great blankets out there that you could use, just google sweater blanket. Bonus, a lot of them are going on clearance right now in the Northern Hemisphere.<br />
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So what do you think friends, will you give this sew a try?</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-84172951317727370972016-01-03T16:30:00.001-05:002016-01-03T16:30:59.919-05:00Final Sew of 2015 - Indygo Junction Crossroads by Amy Barickman Sophia Swing Coat <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWtWuTvhTPfVhGXqNwZY5PmGG-pKAaDNrey5Ozwf_AaFR98d0y-JqBr2q_CF0Amp68rYy5rbM5ttCiKXKFbTORxl8tWxeqVTFNJzS6r0f1QqUg9xspU5ivRbv6Y3Au7R1UiJB620yP9c/s1600/IMG_1552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMWtWuTvhTPfVhGXqNwZY5PmGG-pKAaDNrey5Ozwf_AaFR98d0y-JqBr2q_CF0Amp68rYy5rbM5ttCiKXKFbTORxl8tWxeqVTFNJzS6r0f1QqUg9xspU5ivRbv6Y3Au7R1UiJB620yP9c/s640/IMG_1552.JPG" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Plus Size IJ1133CR</td></tr>
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Friends, just after Thanksgiving I was contacted by the folks at <a href="http://www.indygojunction.com/default.asp">Indygo Junction</a> to see if I would be interested in having some of their patterns. No obligation. I am going to be honest, when they contacted me, I was not at all familiar with their patterns. I certainly had no idea that any of their patterns were of the plus size variety.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnTLkVSfmdU61fF8Nx8dhmI0DNbgotkgntpirxXJKKnY9MarDfdMhm7YMgbsQ4Z86a2PbmZuqs9zRw9jeuETn1ntoyFQBpN_y8p7zrxRvCBlIRX978sPpFn3lbFoYboJrIHabAcRiq4E/s1600/IMG_1564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBnTLkVSfmdU61fF8Nx8dhmI0DNbgotkgntpirxXJKKnY9MarDfdMhm7YMgbsQ4Z86a2PbmZuqs9zRw9jeuETn1ntoyFQBpN_y8p7zrxRvCBlIRX978sPpFn3lbFoYboJrIHabAcRiq4E/s640/IMG_1564.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Plus Size IJ1133CR</span></td></tr>
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As I perused their website trying to decide if I wanted to take them up on the offer of free patterns, the first thing that caught my eye was the Sophia Swing Coat (Pattern IJ1133CR). It looked like something I would wear. In case you haven't noticed, I have a thing for raglan sleeves! <br />
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I welcomed Indygo Junction to send me a sampling of their patterns, but didn't dare request a specific pattern. When the package of patterns arrived a few days later, I was delighted to see that the <a href="http://www.indygojunction.com/Sophia-Swing-Coat-p/pij1133cr.htm">Sophia Swing Coat</a> had been included.<br />
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With the holidays barreling down on me, there was no time to sew the precious coat before the festivities would swallow up most of the month of December. Once the house guests were gone, the tree was packed away, and all the holiday cheer was a mere memory, it was time to get to sewing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.indygojunction.com/Sophia-Swing-Coat-p/pij1133cr.htm"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGf4ThrT07mNg8_4IQn4wMVCDgjDID00dMiZPuateQoODiZWE51GbBo3EKdF3kRMgIZuMewxMbIqcm9Wb_8XqDLwNsidXGOuTZWK3SuI5S6VNflmhAk85emfaLjYidz2Hu53rtBCZl2MA/s640/PIJ1133CR-2T.jpg" width="414" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.indygojunction.com/Sophia-Swing-Coat-p/pij1133cr.htm">Pattern Cover Image from Indygojunction.com</a></td></tr>
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I followed the instructions for the most part. I chose to serge the sleeve dart, instead of using a straight stitch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOBa5Mj2DssZ4g2IQEfu5oQm7PYjl1r9fXrT0yr03nWa3RPbd9XYQ3GkE4ZFnlQTCB8EF2mEzoSHBuANjQhLvrc_K3Yl-ZuLPeB-e7ipSwk1dkbDZbqBmnVkGRkmQjZRlqCSJC-R5-zc/s1600/IMG_1569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOBa5Mj2DssZ4g2IQEfu5oQm7PYjl1r9fXrT0yr03nWa3RPbd9XYQ3GkE4ZFnlQTCB8EF2mEzoSHBuANjQhLvrc_K3Yl-ZuLPeB-e7ipSwk1dkbDZbqBmnVkGRkmQjZRlqCSJC-R5-zc/s640/IMG_1569.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Sleeve Dart</td></tr>
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I actually serged off all the pieces before sewing the coat together, because this denim was fraying like crazy!<br />
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I didn't use any interfacing in construction, because I felt that the denim had enough structure that it really didn't need it. I think most of Indygo Junction's patterns are intended to be able to be used with quilting cotton, because the yardage is given for 44"-45" fabric.<br />
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When the coat was finished, I decided to leave it open instead of installing a button closure. I think I would feel like I was choking if I installed a button.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTr7cDl7m3ce22YCP4wZQyrTZbGmMQW3ZhLFrpq4boeLvZCld0RrUUMgajHuRsE-yi7RAaPB6RAoD5f8hE64wVajED5X0fe8fJDnnsWM7nGAcv7vGl9qI02mWzQ3ui3XJjqlYSLBJu_8Y/s1600/IMG_1553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTr7cDl7m3ce22YCP4wZQyrTZbGmMQW3ZhLFrpq4boeLvZCld0RrUUMgajHuRsE-yi7RAaPB6RAoD5f8hE64wVajED5X0fe8fJDnnsWM7nGAcv7vGl9qI02mWzQ3ui3XJjqlYSLBJu_8Y/s640/IMG_1553.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couldn't even muster a proper smile here.</td></tr>
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So instead of wearing it as intended, I will be turning back the lapel/collar and wearing the jacket this way.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyDJtt5nUKXqPRfUYJ6XSv8UMGa7RSj3ooHL4Q9eNdg5VRWlWV3WILJd2ImpwHZdj_c30DPSup0g_UUnPAFcFy-FXNMXz3gnnCnyR6bNECRZ-SNXI8yK7oSC0gt8eRlZSxAEqEBXnFHko/s1600/IMG_1555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyDJtt5nUKXqPRfUYJ6XSv8UMGa7RSj3ooHL4Q9eNdg5VRWlWV3WILJd2ImpwHZdj_c30DPSup0g_UUnPAFcFy-FXNMXz3gnnCnyR6bNECRZ-SNXI8yK7oSC0gt8eRlZSxAEqEBXnFHko/s640/IMG_1555.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's more like it!</td></tr>
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I really like that the Sophia Swing Coat has pockets that are big enough to hold a cell phone and/or my wallet. Most likely I will be wearing this with a tunic over leggings, and that often leaves me pocketless!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFnsDRTcmgK59pv3B1bIMFeCP198H-glsAVv_6XOTPphOtRlnxqW_-aidi6kwDs-ShYDZG6ciRV7GdSDFOIofbKZcw0zToXP9SGp3IvRMM6dFtxMUZlIyLCBpkxohrPOKV7hkUCiscA4/s1600/IMG_1556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFnsDRTcmgK59pv3B1bIMFeCP198H-glsAVv_6XOTPphOtRlnxqW_-aidi6kwDs-ShYDZG6ciRV7GdSDFOIofbKZcw0zToXP9SGp3IvRMM6dFtxMUZlIyLCBpkxohrPOKV7hkUCiscA4/s640/IMG_1556.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Pockets in Floral Denim</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTU4Qzuo6tWRVe5uOJisqWoeyIB4jShcjMkpzaZantXmqASXjPpZKiykHwuGqg9hB0oi_1whNAefhk6pTx0hOTrQiQt77Aeh4vnEAGDovNMeGR2kWF_CYtimQvcTqlw50mFNvyXps_I4/s1600/IMG_1559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTU4Qzuo6tWRVe5uOJisqWoeyIB4jShcjMkpzaZantXmqASXjPpZKiykHwuGqg9hB0oi_1whNAefhk6pTx0hOTrQiQt77Aeh4vnEAGDovNMeGR2kWF_CYtimQvcTqlw50mFNvyXps_I4/s640/IMG_1559.JPG" width="482" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Swing Coat Pockets</td></tr>
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The back of the coat has a raglan style yoke with a deeply pleated back piece. I like the style of this, and can see me using this style for other makes along the way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_7ycdbIqNbd4JIO5eAzjkX8Zwl1K362klXJiKJbDvkvV-BL44fsHmoYnC_L1XW3Gw5yOWlQWbAnswztZNR3e0ScYovJp6mp_P_GcasoTDSXOISD4YMneoOsY9EH2ryB6osg1PxrEkLM/s1600/IMG_1562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_7ycdbIqNbd4JIO5eAzjkX8Zwl1K362klXJiKJbDvkvV-BL44fsHmoYnC_L1XW3Gw5yOWlQWbAnswztZNR3e0ScYovJp6mp_P_GcasoTDSXOISD4YMneoOsY9EH2ryB6osg1PxrEkLM/s640/IMG_1562.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raglan Yoke - Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrla5exvhS4mvRz37GcRJhc5Jo6lYTDmuYcMFe4jhXx_vczKjbGQQs_qT8l8KoRN968JylxQ9OW3Jrf-inRojLN4hViPc5ousbeIteJ3dtMD73N1F5EGvGV4cu0qM3m2dTg8VL87oCKbA/s1600/IMG_1561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrla5exvhS4mvRz37GcRJhc5Jo6lYTDmuYcMFe4jhXx_vczKjbGQQs_qT8l8KoRN968JylxQ9OW3Jrf-inRojLN4hViPc5ousbeIteJ3dtMD73N1F5EGvGV4cu0qM3m2dTg8VL87oCKbA/s640/IMG_1561.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raglan Yoke, Pleat and Sleeves Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat</td></tr>
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The coat did turn out to be a little longer than I had envisioned, and when I make or hack this pattern again, I will certainly shorten the pattern a bit. In fairness to Indygo Junction, I chose to make the long version of the coat, and it does hit me pretty much exactly where it hits the model on the front of the pattern.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAobl_B_5Q7Mh_v2R4oBx3ydmPevZQjxuQAwxI27wVyApy2wsmhClPnoWz7DGTo3ubICgycPzjuKWGCqachECF-hLWfBqLI2ouVDAsG1pwtcKyvFrbQ9zHafYrcD9697FDjDc7fiQrIYI/s1600/IMG_1563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAobl_B_5Q7Mh_v2R4oBx3ydmPevZQjxuQAwxI27wVyApy2wsmhClPnoWz7DGTo3ubICgycPzjuKWGCqachECF-hLWfBqLI2ouVDAsG1pwtcKyvFrbQ9zHafYrcD9697FDjDc7fiQrIYI/s640/IMG_1563.JPG" width="444" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Plus Size Long Length</td></tr>
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Here are a few shots of the insides. In this first shot you can see the facing, as well as the junction between the raglan sleeve and the body of the coat. I am really happy with how the sleeve darts turned out on this coat!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZvCOoPu2cnar1B7YhmDuirnQepWYTGI3w0h3UKk3ichO_Po6oP7agmIuTtSgtQlzz1rByrgrqaz4eltxXmaW1wZl3mU1nqlIHzymW7xmo3zyKIJORiti8sFPDtD1bJXKLrpsvEhrzEg/s1600/IMG_1567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZvCOoPu2cnar1B7YhmDuirnQepWYTGI3w0h3UKk3ichO_Po6oP7agmIuTtSgtQlzz1rByrgrqaz4eltxXmaW1wZl3mU1nqlIHzymW7xmo3zyKIJORiti8sFPDtD1bJXKLrpsvEhrzEg/s640/IMG_1567.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indygo Junction Sophia Swing Coat Inside of the Coat</td></tr>
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Here you can see where the facing was hand tacked at each of the sleeve seams. You can also see how nicely the pleat came together.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfENfR734eAyqMbDTrTSgZJvlLN4It-y-pqeN2eY2Y2_woXJ4B4O9Gl51RFP4oyeiLcFAE_KEGWwsPzftKoMXvLOg_WuePjPEcrTrpn3gYF0MIPOqFHs_jlV1ztE6WFnM9OZZutG0CHw/s1600/IMG_1572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXfENfR734eAyqMbDTrTSgZJvlLN4It-y-pqeN2eY2Y2_woXJ4B4O9Gl51RFP4oyeiLcFAE_KEGWwsPzftKoMXvLOg_WuePjPEcrTrpn3gYF0MIPOqFHs_jlV1ztE6WFnM9OZZutG0CHw/s640/IMG_1572.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sophia Swing Coat Insides</td></tr>
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Which reminds me, I didn't follow the instructions for the pleat. I treated the pleat in a similar way to an invisible zipper, and sewed the pleat shut, pressed it flat, and then once the coat was finished I removed the basting to have a very nice pleat indeed!<br />
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Friends, what do you think of this coat? Is it something that you would sew?<br />
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I have a lot of ideas for pattern hacks here. I can see a front separating zipper being used. I know that these sleeves are going to make their way in to other pattern hacks. I can see turning this in to a dress, with a little more shaping on the top side. I can even see lengthening the sleeves and making a nice lined wool coat with this pattern. There are lots of possibilities to explore.<br />
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One last thing that I am truly pleased with...the coat actually looks like the sample images on the pattern cover. Huge kuddos to Indygo Junction for that!!!<br />
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***This pattern was provided free to the Author of this blog, however all opinions expressed are the Author's own and not influenced by Indygo Junction Pattern Company in any way.***</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-5809047607208006562015-12-14T07:30:00.000-05:002015-12-14T11:19:13.170-05:00Effects of the 2015 RTW Fast<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, I know that I haven't talked about it a lot throughout the year, but most of you know that I was a participant in the 2015 RTW (that's "ready to wear" for any new to sewing blog readers) Fast hosted by Sarah Gunn of <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/">Goodbye Valentino</a>. What that means is that for the entire year of 2015 I did not purchase any clothes. I made everything.<br />
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Luckily, I didn't need a new bra this year, because despite the luck many of my sewing friends are having with bra making...I am not interested! Whole engineering classes are built around bra design, so don't tell me it isn't rocket science.<br />
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I have done well with the fast. I haven't purchased any clothes for myself all year long (but there are some sweaters on my Christmas list). My husband bought me a beautiful red Calvin Klein dress for our anniversary, and that is the only garment that I have received this year. I have to admit that it was a nice fit. Could have used a small FBA, but other than that it was divine. Please ignore all the garage junk in the picture!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJxMQaeTuxuKX1LdxFqKiFfouj76VgIODti-bXDCFZHU6pq2hyfVOAldjHsn55L8gCCuwXfBRHI5WUoQIzvf8FPclw8Q7nUfjhJptHDE3oKKA42rmhuSA-pdB3RWWeCEquwQdtE4fo94/w367-h800-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img aria-label="Photo - Portrait - Dec 11, 2015" border="0" class="SzDcob" height="800" jsname="uLHQEd" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJxMQaeTuxuKX1LdxFqKiFfouj76VgIODti-bXDCFZHU6pq2hyfVOAldjHsn55L8gCCuwXfBRHI5WUoQIzvf8FPclw8Q7nUfjhJptHDE3oKKA42rmhuSA-pdB3RWWeCEquwQdtE4fo94/w367-h800-no/" style="transform: translate3d(0px, 0px, 0px) rotate(0deg);" width="367" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress by Calvin Klein</td></tr>
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When I thought about joining the RTW fast at the end of last year, I thought that I would end up buying a lot of accessories. Shoes, purses, jewelry. My thought was that while I couldn't buy clothes I would bulk up those areas of my wardrobe. The truth is the RTW fast has curbed my consumerism as a whole. I think that is a trend I see happening in our life more and more anyway, and I will expound on that more at a later date.<br />
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I haven't purchased a lot of fabric. I certainly haven't been hoarding it the way I was in 2014. The fabrics that have been bought have been sewn into garments almost immediately (for the most part).<br />
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As the RTW fast is coming to an end, I have started to peruse some of the places I would buy clothes in the past. I realize that I may now be ruined for buying clothes off a rack. As I look over the sea of clothing, all I see are shoulders that are going to be too big, combined with hips that will be too small. I see issues that no amount of tailoring will fix. Will I ever be able to purchase RTW again? I am sure that there will be items that I will feel fine taking what is offered on the racks, but for the most part, I will be making my own clothing from here on out.<br />
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I never got around to making my dream bathing suit. That will have to be one of 2016's projects, I suppose. There were a few other items on my sewing list that didn't get made as well, and they too will be pushed to 2016's list.<br />
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All in all, the RTW fast has been very positive for me, and I encourage any of you who are considering it, to take the leap. It's only a year, and there aren't any RTW police coming around to give you a ticket if you have to buy something. Your sewing skills will grow, and you might even save a little money.<br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-72118924189540762442015-12-11T10:06:00.001-05:002015-12-11T10:06:52.648-05:00The Misty Jeans Sewalong Winner Is....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Andie from <a href="https://sewprettyinpink.wordpress.com/">Sew Pretty in Pink</a>! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZCFuD1Vl9h-8g5uceHkC3-d8RBnaG7I60udDz4H3CJcvb_15v8fgho0oXfhfMSIIc3znX4TpanIJ7MSjrzZ6D3DIfFbOyKf5qDBybopQcX3sJMVwB615njsaVve1VfRgFgM79K1ScLQ/s1600/Sew+Pretty+in+Pink+Misty+Jeans.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZCFuD1Vl9h-8g5uceHkC3-d8RBnaG7I60udDz4H3CJcvb_15v8fgho0oXfhfMSIIc3znX4TpanIJ7MSjrzZ6D3DIfFbOyKf5qDBybopQcX3sJMVwB615njsaVve1VfRgFgM79K1ScLQ/s640/Sew+Pretty+in+Pink+Misty+Jeans.png" width="620" /></a></div>
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Congratulations to Andie, as well as the rest of the women who were brave enough to share their pants! Fantastic job everyone!!!</div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-8811792468208519892015-12-04T11:09:00.001-05:002015-12-04T11:09:40.919-05:00Misty Jeans Sewalong Voting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, forgive me. I have been a bad blogger. I didn't send out a reminder that the time to enter the Misty Jeans Sewalong was coming to an end. Now, here we are days in to the voting stage of the contest, and I have not made mention of that either.<br />
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Go vote <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/11/misty-pullon-jeans-sewalong-parade-of.html">here</a> for your favorite Misty Jeans. You can vote through December 10th. Let's show these ladies some love!!!</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-76493753040246048522015-11-20T14:46:00.000-05:002015-11-20T14:46:28.020-05:00Burda Style 2015 Best of Blogging<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, did you hear? I was nominated and chosen for the Burda Style 2015 Best of Blogging List! I know some of you heard, because you had to be the one's to nominate me. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWol9kevXSGJIVTbF-MyzX0Y5K0XiQ1Clb-QL1QMytYljNCQLD3Ji2sggG0-gh90PDU7SzKl-YgyKovBR4d7jgo9KNxRLSaWkDSbRMbv14s67taC1EbXfgQ2btBvWxUdX2AqUrVoydUs/s1600/TopBlogger+Badge_2015.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWol9kevXSGJIVTbF-MyzX0Y5K0XiQ1Clb-QL1QMytYljNCQLD3Ji2sggG0-gh90PDU7SzKl-YgyKovBR4d7jgo9KNxRLSaWkDSbRMbv14s67taC1EbXfgQ2btBvWxUdX2AqUrVoydUs/s400/TopBlogger+Badge_2015.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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When a reader contacted me to say that I was being honored, I thought they must have been reading the list wrong or something. So to all my readers I just want to say a huge<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Thank You!!!!</span></div>
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I am truly honored that you all enjoy reading my ramblings enough to nominate me. Sewing friends are the best! </div>
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As a result of this honor, I was able to choose five Burda Style patterns of my liking. I was thrilled since they have such variation of patterns, but also apprehensive since I have given them a hard time in the past about their boxy plus size offerings. Alas, I was able to go through their offerings and find some patterns I think will sew up nicely.</div>
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I thought you all might want to see what I chose, so here goes (all photos below are from Burdastyle.com and should be linked back to their actual page):</div>
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Burda Style 11/2015 #129 Button Up Blouse</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/button-up-blouse-plus-size-112015"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmp4RwTSzkIXwkIZBrXTx1qqeryfHxfmP6PrJ9Y9df7dUwT-vSH5t7NZLNG1WWh6GWH_9FQ3QSgx6PptP1icY00R2G3u9C47LhD6AxBVSKoOeB4702ycH8nlER3OLfYo4X3VUnm166Ac/s640/129-112015-B-burda-style-+112015+129.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style Button Up Blouse 11/2015 #129</td></tr>
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<br />I chose this blouse because it looks like a nice starting point for a TNT button up blouse. Blouses like this are easy to elongate to tunic length, and can look really nice over leggings.<div>
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Burda Style 08/2011 #139 Wrap Tunic Dress</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/wrap-tunic-dress-plus-size-082011" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoipgSEuRCPehRNdRfP60pY-DOOLtDy7gB1gPS-ABVYPZLbbKMWllmJg5jiFw5mynUUY8uBj-qnFEBamyA71VYhwc-yguYznWCOR_K-BXKJUrHzBLsr2eHQYQ1tvBnnzNEHg3oWnY7SI/s640/139_flat_large.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style 08/2011 #139 Wrap Tunic Dress</td></tr>
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<br />I have been wanting to make this Wrap Tunic since last year when Andie at <a href="https://sewprettyinpink.wordpress.com/">Sew Pretty in Pink</a> sewed it up for the Curvy Sewing Collective's Wrapalong. You can see her version <a href="https://sewprettyinpink.wordpress.com/2014/10/21/burda-faux-wrap-tunic-dress/">here</a>. BTW- If you follow Andie on Instagram make sure to check out the sweet contest she is running!</div>
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<br />Burda Style 02/2015 #134 Casual Blouse<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/casual-blouse-plus-size-022015" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzs4S_kVQT0y1VW0ReJfyceJPkxvJjDtmBBVURxi4IAhDsqcRjLN02NesQWlAwOmOpgYn6HksX5zJrM2w3rhU0e3bBa7Y2U5X84xBsYy3_ymua-7_Pm4XRAie09t2yGDa_A3aluLEKR0/s640/134_LB_large.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style 02/2015 #134 Casual Top</td></tr>
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<br />This Casual Top spoke to me. It's simple enough that if one wanted to play around with their sewing machine's fancy stitches and spruce it up a bit there is room for that, but it would still look great just the way it is.<br /><div>
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Burda Style 02/2015 #133 Fold Blouse</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/fold-blouse-plus-size-022015" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVWr4RgJyt3HO54x25sel1OaQfmebCfrh8FhoXgdPeXez1XhwPjZ3q1zGdB2GmnJ5QRWpHx7QLmzPbLSyPpJ8BEB8e1a138NucwW-XkjsKdE57i8B0BlLdMdklbCDy6fSp3LHGryzQ-Q/s640/133_LB_large.jpg" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style 02/2015 #133 Fold Blouse</td></tr>
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<br />This Fold Blouse is begging me to make it before Christmas arrives. It would be beautiful in a Christmas Red, or Emerald Green, don't you think? It screams comfortable elegance.<br /><br />Burda Style 01/2012 #134AB Belted Kimono</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/belted-kimono-plus-size-012012" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRiksUlZ9W-vKncLHppjsuyxZVqBRhyQ98oH45uvl24WuK_0gjHsXRx2tbjxFL8HiuwYTiELNHDK38uA0o2HlYnU2it-u6Fz-32EpmVZsoD2u6fDXvqptfGGJXSSS7ycBQkkxI-Ptt4pc/s640/134A-0112-B_325x433-ID251711-09fbf4ba1611abc2e3b5c0a1e1438992_large.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burda Style 01/2012 #134AB Belted Kimono</td></tr>
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Last but not least, I have been in need of a house jacket for some time now. When I came across this Belted Kimono, I knew it had potential to be just what I needed to make that house jacket. Envision this made up in Titanium Silk Velvet with Amethyst Satin Trim! I get giddy just considering it. Oh the possibilities!</div>
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I haven't decided which of these patterns I am going to make first. Which one would you all like to see?</div>
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Also, what are some good fabric substitutions for washed silk? It is so hard to find, and WOW is it expensive when you do. I was thinking about making wearable muslins in peach skin since I have quite a bit of it hiding in my stash. </div>
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Friends, once again I just want to say thank you from the bottom of my heart for nominating me for this honor. You guys are great!</div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-38266709119644137892015-11-18T11:36:00.000-05:002015-11-18T11:36:59.943-05:00Two For One: Butterick 5997 and McCalls 7204<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, these are two projects that have been sewn for ages, but I just hadn't gotten around to photographing!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8d2UbIcfm_04aG2rUgNd8W7JfUKsFIaGJ02WLl1B5YJ3D1ImM7yLwu1NwJbgqEdsJ09uAKDoChWMaYcL5x2pVlzOlkaErWWUBw_Ts7TmSzmmJtu54f8vl2WbPCQhi4yvVkd_RWtG8Cs/s1600/IMG_1308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8d2UbIcfm_04aG2rUgNd8W7JfUKsFIaGJ02WLl1B5YJ3D1ImM7yLwu1NwJbgqEdsJ09uAKDoChWMaYcL5x2pVlzOlkaErWWUBw_Ts7TmSzmmJtu54f8vl2WbPCQhi4yvVkd_RWtG8Cs/s640/IMG_1308.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">McCalls 7204 and Butterick 5997</span></td></tr>
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Occasionally, I sew something that my husband just goes ga ga for. This is one of those outfits! When I downloaded the pictures, I realized that he had taken over 200 shots. I can always tell how much he likes something I have sewn by the amount of photos he takes.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmCW_F0lp6G8GBC0nFj-H838_4DMt9WJ8c5WGfd61VFiUTncavulKq8m8DuiC4KG9gLLJV483sU4V44xFmWos1vrK6vJe8m5kCpQAdkzIJUR-JElmFHUt5Hjk1WF3iVnaWyhUzMdFQes/s1600/IMG_1317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmCW_F0lp6G8GBC0nFj-H838_4DMt9WJ8c5WGfd61VFiUTncavulKq8m8DuiC4KG9gLLJV483sU4V44xFmWos1vrK6vJe8m5kCpQAdkzIJUR-JElmFHUt5Hjk1WF3iVnaWyhUzMdFQes/s640/IMG_1317.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5997 View B is actually quite long</td></tr>
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As you can see here, McCalls 7204 (the cardigan) ended up being quite long. I am five foot six inches tall. This thing nearly drags the ground! I did sew view B which is the longer of the two cardigans, but I was expecting mid thigh to knee, not mid shin! I love it though. I wish I remembered where I had purchased this Cerulean Blue knit fabric, because I would order more. I just love it!<br />
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The tunic underneath is Butterick 5997. This isn't <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-floral-tunic-and-long-shorts.html">the first Butterick 5997 that I have made</a>. I went sleeveless with this version though and it is so comfy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjht3wBA2pIM0sCGINRaz5YU3G5ZNrkYDiegIYKDG_0h3hbpnbR0vfMrFLJrVEa6y75y7V8qzt3hNPPwTcDE23fB-wsPNSyY_WdvtCrKMsudz2ZRW2r3cnmjXIb2hv57gVgR_7NfTj3UjU/s1600/IMG_1346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjht3wBA2pIM0sCGINRaz5YU3G5ZNrkYDiegIYKDG_0h3hbpnbR0vfMrFLJrVEa6y75y7V8qzt3hNPPwTcDE23fB-wsPNSyY_WdvtCrKMsudz2ZRW2r3cnmjXIb2hv57gVgR_7NfTj3UjU/s640/IMG_1346.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5997 Tunic in a Nani Iro Japanese Print</td></tr>
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The fabric for this tunic is a double gauze that was purchased from a local quilt and fabric shop called <a href="http://www.crimsontate.com/">Crimson Tate</a>. It is a Nani Iro print, and I love the combination of flowers and birds. The color palette is just beautiful, too. Unfortunately, it does not appear to still be available on the Crimson Tate website, but there are some other great <a href="https://www.crimsontate.com/searchresults/pg?q=Nani%20Iro">Nani Iro prints</a> still available.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtwv8lQfTGZuGJvBjxIIH-bfrbpdCrkYkBm2Ob6KTzS7nrhyh00gOpWdPsLy5mGaS4bH9Emqi-LttFtUun-USYpFP5Bw1e98NcRbiIfh8rgV7JhBDX0WamAfiF2hRW5JvE3cbqaEA9Hc/s1600/IMG_1352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtwv8lQfTGZuGJvBjxIIH-bfrbpdCrkYkBm2Ob6KTzS7nrhyh00gOpWdPsLy5mGaS4bH9Emqi-LttFtUun-USYpFP5Bw1e98NcRbiIfh8rgV7JhBDX0WamAfiF2hRW5JvE3cbqaEA9Hc/s640/IMG_1352.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I added three inch side slits to the shirt since I made it tunic length. That just helps with some extra space for when you sit down. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OFd0HF_xqWf9ZdAO-w2Q-sClhLWmNreyeTdFAEAAHNVGm5VEZ2P6iX1hk4uOxGMzjKEvp4dEq5r70noPleQWxavPG8s-EaujQlTP93TJwibHY2Kn2oZkiKq0bYuDQ5aKREGIy7N4hKA/s1600/IMG_1358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OFd0HF_xqWf9ZdAO-w2Q-sClhLWmNreyeTdFAEAAHNVGm5VEZ2P6iX1hk4uOxGMzjKEvp4dEq5r70noPleQWxavPG8s-EaujQlTP93TJwibHY2Kn2oZkiKq0bYuDQ5aKREGIy7N4hKA/s640/IMG_1358.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Couldn't resist throwing in this photo taken during the golden hour! Probably should have pressed the center line out before taking the photos, but I kind of forgot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXyavgSlqb3U8wPiOD4wzJqog8Q5F0eH6myD4EupClw6fMTwoi30Cv5WWbMjfOa3w1dNm0Oyra9u2gSVlpBrSJ-W8SdpnPs0pdtNq2aFoBCRv2Z6mCi6A9AUXCHThugOIY1ZbuSnLXRc/s1600/IMG_1406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXyavgSlqb3U8wPiOD4wzJqog8Q5F0eH6myD4EupClw6fMTwoi30Cv5WWbMjfOa3w1dNm0Oyra9u2gSVlpBrSJ-W8SdpnPs0pdtNq2aFoBCRv2Z6mCi6A9AUXCHThugOIY1ZbuSnLXRc/s640/IMG_1406.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would you believe that in August I cut almost 8 inches off my hair?</td></tr>
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Yes, my Sperry's match. The ground was much too soft for cute shoes. In this photo you can see how the waist comes down at an angle on the cardigan. You can also see just how long the cardigan really turned out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-fKeoZ6ajviGttNURO8m_ULNlrjNo9Bl3K5_z8E9LdOUy9xkxk13z81sP3jY8QZvf4c1L9E1GmZzGaUH52ncIGRh9g3WGN5li3TPDORoZ8QUIL7iVgBK9ehc0oSl9tAIhz1iOZWs16qg/s1600/IMG_1442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-fKeoZ6ajviGttNURO8m_ULNlrjNo9Bl3K5_z8E9LdOUy9xkxk13z81sP3jY8QZvf4c1L9E1GmZzGaUH52ncIGRh9g3WGN5li3TPDORoZ8QUIL7iVgBK9ehc0oSl9tAIhz1iOZWs16qg/s640/IMG_1442.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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One last photo for good measure! The cardigan is so soft and lovely. It will get plenty of use this Fall and Winter.<br />
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I won't go much in to the construction of Butterick 5997. Aside from making the shirt sleeveless and using self binding to finish the armscye, I didn't make any changes from my previous version. I keep saying I am going to make the pintuck version, and then I get lazy.<br />
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For McCalls 7204, I mostly followed the directions on the pattern. I did add clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams and the waist seam. I am really glad that I did this. I think with this fabric the waist especially would have gone all wonky had I not. I also cut the width of the front band/collar in half. I didn't want it to fold back on itself. I am glad that I made this change, and would continue it in to the next time I make McCalls 7204. This was a really quick cut and sew. Even with me hand rolling the hem (I also hand rolled the hem on Butterick 5997), the cardigan was made cut to finish in less than 3 hours. <br />
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I am really enjoying hand sewing lately. Have any of you been doing much hand sewing? I started my sewing career (ha) hand sewing at four years old. I did a lot of embroidery and cross stitch back then. I think now, I like the control that hand stitching gives me. Sometimes I feel like my machine has a mind of it's own, and I am it's muse.<br />
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I think that I would like to next sew McCalls 7204 in a chunky sweater knit. Let me know in the comments if you have seen any great sweater knits that I should have a look at.<br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-79596001080751745262015-11-15T19:28:00.001-05:002015-11-15T20:19:31.748-05:00Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong Parade of Jeans<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Friends, here is the moment you all have been waiting for (maybe)! The Misty Pull-On Jeans Link Party is open for business.<br />
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The Details: You can begin posting at any time. You are welcome to post as many pair of Misty Jeans as you are willing to make. You can post pictures until the end of the day (EDT) on November 30th, 2015. Then the voting begins. Voting will continue until days end (EDT) December 10th, 2015. The winner will receive a prize packet including a $50 fabric.com gift certificate, and 3 patterns of your choice from Style Arc. More prizes may be added as the contest continues. Good luck, and let's see those jeans!<br />
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One more thing...please head over to the Curvy Sewing Collective and post your Misty Jean Photos on their <a href="http://curvysewingcollective.com/flickr-group/">flickr group</a>. Nothing would make me happier than seeing lots of jeans on the CSC, so that we can help other women overcome their fear of sewing pants!<br />
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<a href="http://www.inlinkz.com/new/view.php?id=582649" rel="nofollow" title="click to view in an external page.">An InLinkz Link-up</a><br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-18224869598432690722015-11-09T10:28:00.000-05:002015-11-09T10:28:47.651-05:00The Finished Product - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, I am so glad to be finally posting this post!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUnDS79WFrcdgqUA9HUPkS5eEnlkM2kNziBEQ3cr6vZEzSJhIhD-nuPk1C0F2gheVfPN3LYVVsOhcWU1ln7a9BcAjAzcsN1gezqCzpGzNnSgwkDFabxraw7Z46BBsyDLqBH5spKFXoGM/s1600/IMG_1282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUnDS79WFrcdgqUA9HUPkS5eEnlkM2kNziBEQ3cr6vZEzSJhIhD-nuPk1C0F2gheVfPN3LYVVsOhcWU1ln7a9BcAjAzcsN1gezqCzpGzNnSgwkDFabxraw7Z46BBsyDLqBH5spKFXoGM/s640/IMG_1282.jpg" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans - Plus Size Edition</td></tr>
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I want you all to know that I have not made any alterations to the pattern in these pictures. This is how the jeans sewed up straight from the package (although I did size down 2 sizes). You can see the wrinkling across the knees is still there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0PBsLaPuCc3okfaOJ-BYpqf3G-2J0d-lfQji7U_Y6Qm_0R9m12xCW3ifeLKAhxfTKBCJ11zs_VtEYUQ0zPtuNFy_lX-xHGr5b0fBGEzc7vhZpJv8Y_uAmDvcsUEi-TBjp_1_GZhHR7Y/s1600/IMG_1298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0PBsLaPuCc3okfaOJ-BYpqf3G-2J0d-lfQji7U_Y6Qm_0R9m12xCW3ifeLKAhxfTKBCJ11zs_VtEYUQ0zPtuNFy_lX-xHGr5b0fBGEzc7vhZpJv8Y_uAmDvcsUEi-TBjp_1_GZhHR7Y/s640/IMG_1298.jpg" width="408" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans from the back</td></tr>
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I feel pretty alright about the fit through the behind. My sweet husband didn't notice that the building had left dust all over my back, so if you can, please ignore it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Sma48Q-36x-I77_fLN_kDo9yMI8a6oZQit0Ha0gu0KW-iN32Jg7FBdJn1QfPth1h1252LSKsl_d5TDabHClda2Mq-ivluza3hMthUfojOFWBwPKqr5OSdJiChBhqqn3sedqe5ylEyh8/s1600/IMG_1305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Sma48Q-36x-I77_fLN_kDo9yMI8a6oZQit0Ha0gu0KW-iN32Jg7FBdJn1QfPth1h1252LSKsl_d5TDabHClda2Mq-ivluza3hMthUfojOFWBwPKqr5OSdJiChBhqqn3sedqe5ylEyh8/s640/IMG_1305.jpg" width="546" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Knock Knee Adjustment Needed</td></tr>
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I am not mad at the fit here in the front. It is just as good as RTW if not a little better. I knew going in that I need a knock-knee adjustment, but I really wanted to sew for the sewalong straight from the pattern. I think it can be intimidating for beginners when we do a sewalong and then start making all kinds of adjustments. I just wanted to show what you get (or should I say what I get?) without any changes. I just want to be clear on that.</div>
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I didn't photograph the tummy area of the jeans. Be mad at me if you want. The fit there is pretty good. I will be lengthening the front crotch curve a little in the future, but that is the only adjustment I will be making. The elastic ended up coming in about an inch below my natural waist.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ8JyVz-EHiewlaYR8aVsqYvOs5MZsWQN55f-DHcMPZCX5moHQD2cJz-KFtsKIcPa4U2c5bxivGwAG3KeS_xaYOVQTu_50U1zA-OI4oPXjh0vFogLAHvUnjmq6ghoHkEOX3UdaqsUPRdc/s1600/IMG_1306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ8JyVz-EHiewlaYR8aVsqYvOs5MZsWQN55f-DHcMPZCX5moHQD2cJz-KFtsKIcPa4U2c5bxivGwAG3KeS_xaYOVQTu_50U1zA-OI4oPXjh0vFogLAHvUnjmq6ghoHkEOX3UdaqsUPRdc/s640/IMG_1306.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sway Back Adjustment Needed</td></tr>
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Those smile lines at the bottom of my bum are the only issue with the fit of the back of the jeans for me. This indicates that I need a pants swayback adjustment. Just a minor one though. Look at that pattern matching! Not only did they match up from side to side, but the pattern continues on through the yoke. Boy is my elbow sore from patting myself on the back! My pockets have disappeared in to the fabric.</div>
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Now, with the pictures out of the way, let's just talk about these pants for a minute. These pants are comfortable. I imagine that these feel the way those pajama jeans from TV informercials felt. Some of that may be the fabric I chose to use, but I have heard that same sentiment from other sewists as well. What isn't comfortable about them is that exposed elastic waist, but in all fairness I have never liked the feel of elastic against my skin. I will be going back and removing the elastic and encasing it with the jeans fabric. When I make these in the future, I will only make them with encased elastic. I do believe that I will make more of these in the future, but with all the necessary adjustments.</div>
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Let's talk about how you can get in on the fun of the Misty Jeans Sewalong. If you search #mistyjeanssewalong on Instagram, you can see where some sewist are having discussions and posting pictures of their Misty Jeans. Please feel free to join the conversation! <br />
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On Sunday, November 15th I am going to post a link party that you all can link your Misty Jeans to after you make them. You will be able to post pictures of your Misty Jeans from any online picture posting source (flickr, Google Photos, etc.) as well as from your blog if you have one. The link party will stay open for posts through November 30th. Then, we will start live voting for the jeans on December 1st. I can't quite tell you about the prize pack yet, but promise I will have all the details up in the link party. <br />
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So tell me friends, how are you doing on your Misty Jeans? </div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-5090697684722652472015-11-04T12:21:00.000-05:002015-11-04T12:21:43.832-05:00Sewing the Waist and Finishing Touches - Style Arc Misty Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
You who!?! Where'd ya go? <br />
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Sorry, Friends! Halloween costume making got the better of me towards week's end. Captain America was very happy with his costume though!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Captain America</td></tr>
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I may do a post about his costume at a later date. That star in the middle of his chest lights up!<br />
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Anyway, back to the Misty Jeans. <br />
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To attach the waist band, you have to decide on the size of your waistband. I did not use the waistband guide for this step. There are so many different types of elastic out that have varying stretch characteristics, that I felt it better to determine the elastic size myself. I first put the elastic around my natural waist to my desired amount of tightness, then made sure that the elastic would stretch enough to go over my hips with relative ease. I cut two pieces of the elastic to this length with about an inch of extra length added in for overlap where we will be sewing the elastic together to make a round waistband.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6PcDsl6YLICg9sBeLFUMAfOQhNoKN1WL6okRYbxfeXZ8RL7OuP0xiBBYRuvl0yAQQV1e7ahrZGvs_nSAokFcFcV63QDdsL80e-oxdBC1khyeiQQp0u-HUbKAqhcj4u1RCeXJVu9f8k4/s1600/IMG_1131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ6PcDsl6YLICg9sBeLFUMAfOQhNoKN1WL6okRYbxfeXZ8RL7OuP0xiBBYRuvl0yAQQV1e7ahrZGvs_nSAokFcFcV63QDdsL80e-oxdBC1khyeiQQp0u-HUbKAqhcj4u1RCeXJVu9f8k4/s640/IMG_1131.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZigZag Stitch 5.0 Width 1.0 Length</td></tr>
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I set my sewing machine for a zigzag stitch (#5 on my machine) with a 5.0 stitch width and a 1.0 stitch length. On a zigzag stitch, 1.0 is a tight stitch length that will place your stitches close together.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joining the Ends of the Elastic</td></tr>
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Next, I took one piece of my already cut to length elastic, brought it together like a belt would go together (a round loop, with no twisting of the elastic, just one round solid loop) and overlapped the elastic pieces by about 1/2 inch. Then, I sewed the elastic together with my zigzag stitch. I started about 1/4 inch from the top edge of the elastic. Then I sewed to the bottom edge, reversed my stitch and sewed all the way back up to the top of the elastic, set my stitch back forward, and sewed to the bottom edge again. This might be over kill, but it is what I always do when I am sewing elastic together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0KpVxh2RIFmpyJUnD44Q0OLYAhKJv1aS3hR3WFfriKuB1bvIGi1Qr25RNNOtEtUnYrYn8YcRQu6AMLCZJtkSwvwp2tA_pjg0EbQw4fNpk7sk3PvsAsVvegmjU0FfA0m132sb2tCO_6U/s1600/IMG_1138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0KpVxh2RIFmpyJUnD44Q0OLYAhKJv1aS3hR3WFfriKuB1bvIGi1Qr25RNNOtEtUnYrYn8YcRQu6AMLCZJtkSwvwp2tA_pjg0EbQw4fNpk7sk3PvsAsVvegmjU0FfA0m132sb2tCO_6U/s640/IMG_1138.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is what your seam on your elastic will look like once you are finished. Just a nice solid line of stitching that will keep the elastic together, and keep it from fraying.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trim the Elastic to Keep it Neat</td></tr>
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Next, I trimmed away the extra elastic on both sides of the band, leaving a scant 1/4 inch outside the seam. Now just repeat these steps to make a band out of your second piece of elastic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGqro-KFJWjiVdGu2-W-JuWuFUFrg5nKDHGZgO2i-4MpYsWf-LrkTRbaRgEnDb3lCbLZIM8UIHULlmFx0BymSbG2XTPhrZzFoTVjg_4GZBCAbeVIHnuG70-dj7OQxHPjJscHTxg8QmFI/s1600/IMG_20151104_105541820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGqro-KFJWjiVdGu2-W-JuWuFUFrg5nKDHGZgO2i-4MpYsWf-LrkTRbaRgEnDb3lCbLZIM8UIHULlmFx0BymSbG2XTPhrZzFoTVjg_4GZBCAbeVIHnuG70-dj7OQxHPjJscHTxg8QmFI/s640/IMG_20151104_105541820.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZigZag Stitch 5.0 Width 2.0 Length</td></tr>
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Once both bands were joined it was time to sew the two bands together. I will continue with a zigzag stitch with a 5.0 width, but I will change the stitch length to 2.0 so that there is space between the stitches. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27IdrbMJX9Qz3NOOdodN32qGIvfRyHbeMRQy-8wxi6ELLffE84j6vSKKu_wKqdB8Xwbviwajy-Qyjz1yK-c5VMycbaYC6Oo5hdutrrvn6lDPdxcs9u1WVo-JRuGoRce_7gsEqZ7BinPg/s1600/IMG_1141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27IdrbMJX9Qz3NOOdodN32qGIvfRyHbeMRQy-8wxi6ELLffE84j6vSKKu_wKqdB8Xwbviwajy-Qyjz1yK-c5VMycbaYC6Oo5hdutrrvn6lDPdxcs9u1WVo-JRuGoRce_7gsEqZ7BinPg/s640/IMG_1141.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bb0UIblyetd5Us-n5TCuYzOXgs-OV8XCoQr0wBllxBHZ6ER8La5s7B0mMueWzdnW38BObw2fTV0loxulnK1ENKZI-GyAgLVE9aXumOmUj189RniRUnNOhhGGfKMiCTPM9FCGiM6KxlQ/s1600/IMG_1142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bb0UIblyetd5Us-n5TCuYzOXgs-OV8XCoQr0wBllxBHZ6ER8La5s7B0mMueWzdnW38BObw2fTV0loxulnK1ENKZI-GyAgLVE9aXumOmUj189RniRUnNOhhGGfKMiCTPM9FCGiM6KxlQ/s640/IMG_1142.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evenly Spaced Seams</td></tr>
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In this step it is important to make sure that the areas you sewed to join your elastic to form bands are on opposite sides of the waistband. If you put them together, it would cause problems with bulk, and the stress of those seams does not need to be in the same place. Spread the love!<br />
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I only used two needles to hold the elastic together here. You want to get your zigzag stitch as close to the edge of your elastic as you are comfortable with. There is no reason to stretch the elastic as you are sewing at this point. If you are the brave type and want to sew a straight stitch instead of a zigzag, you will have to stretch your elastic as you go, but I don't recommend trying that if you are a beginner. You will get an opportunity to sew a stretched seam here in a few steps if you wish.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWJm_EQwzUxKiARsKFZCFBgdhfvxtI0Bq2b_oRWWg0MnKEqeSQGvdi8CzfMKPJ_MbMEQ_-MPLIxI8MiLGlhDF76ygsZTLsdBQM_UgXbWedg9yULIOuqrp5rm0KGrECyJNccsDa1T5cjw/s1600/IMG_1144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWJm_EQwzUxKiARsKFZCFBgdhfvxtI0Bq2b_oRWWg0MnKEqeSQGvdi8CzfMKPJ_MbMEQ_-MPLIxI8MiLGlhDF76ygsZTLsdBQM_UgXbWedg9yULIOuqrp5rm0KGrECyJNccsDa1T5cjw/s640/IMG_1144.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These Clips Rock</td></tr>
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As I was sewing, the elastic bands were trying to move around a little on me, so every now and again I would throw one of these little clips on there in the interest of straightness. It isn't necessary, but it helped.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPSk_zMUG4GXoPftfSglRKlRm80J39LLqXntglTSmxyLTrDgz6w0SbhLZWFfn17r78_01h0V7xgkf64Z6VYti_wjMFsZMHq8orI5-cl_lIaOdDar2l0R-BgcJaloCpbTuyxvNGYvcrGg/s1600/IMG_1145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPPSk_zMUG4GXoPftfSglRKlRm80J39LLqXntglTSmxyLTrDgz6w0SbhLZWFfn17r78_01h0V7xgkf64Z6VYti_wjMFsZMHq8orI5-cl_lIaOdDar2l0R-BgcJaloCpbTuyxvNGYvcrGg/s640/IMG_1145.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Center Front Pinned in Place</td></tr>
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Once you have joined your two pieces of elastic together, it is time to attach the elastic to the waistband. Style Arc gives you directions that say to attach the waistband to the pants, because it gives you creative freedom to decide what method you want to use to join the two. A really awesome thing about the double thickness of elastic is that you could use the two pieces of elastic to encase the top of the pants, and that would be a really awesome finish. It is however a harder feat to achieve, so in the interest of keeping these pants beginner friendly, I am using the easiest method I am aware of.<br />
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Nancy Zieman goes in to this a bit on her website, except her <a href="http://www.nancyzieman.com/blog/sewing-general/the-absolute-easiest-way-to-sew-elastic-to-a-waistline/">tutoria</a>l that I found was for encasing the elastic with the pant fabric (I will encase the elastic on the next pair of Misty's that I make, but I won't be using this method). With the Misty Jeans pattern, the elastic is actually part of the design element. Still, her tutorial is a good one that will help with this step. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2eRR5PBlbvu5A53Ygl-ZX_bmBkVJlDpfhLyjQoAoquWbWdtIYieYJKGadutREQdFGkYNli9kSpxVkjfdIMm8rWD-ezdXbTqottJJ3kUdIKX7TEOhNmb16cuI57lYGazvBZuZyP6vy6c/s1600/IMG_1146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2eRR5PBlbvu5A53Ygl-ZX_bmBkVJlDpfhLyjQoAoquWbWdtIYieYJKGadutREQdFGkYNli9kSpxVkjfdIMm8rWD-ezdXbTqottJJ3kUdIKX7TEOhNmb16cuI57lYGazvBZuZyP6vy6c/s640/IMG_1146.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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You want to pin your elastic to the outside/right side of your pants. I placed pins first at my two side seams, using the areas where I had sewn each elastic loop together as my quides. Then I pinned my center front and center back. After that, I placed a pin evenly between each of the pins that was already there for a total of eight pins.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzHguqdqfCC6ZG8QATBoO8cKqIZ8wIyuhrPeMPqhIjpNOUQdNJ_HbjBEOb8KCNoqPKsypT8XZlK57S0tkyrLgXUA-kEelbRX7meZFX6-9PVi7ICc9ioqfhsCZyRB6SZmf5aXIArezNhA/s1600/IMG_1148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzHguqdqfCC6ZG8QATBoO8cKqIZ8wIyuhrPeMPqhIjpNOUQdNJ_HbjBEOb8KCNoqPKsypT8XZlK57S0tkyrLgXUA-kEelbRX7meZFX6-9PVi7ICc9ioqfhsCZyRB6SZmf5aXIArezNhA/s640/IMG_1148.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see from the picture above that my elastic is going to have to stretch to be the same width as my pant fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5WzJpb3FRHtRnRRTcJTN1UV2_SrF_XBCqt-06ggDZDuRGeJsmHrS5BUUdREqRE4HWzgUfvq8AnnRgxUeJDkJ7QmGsOT0XvXS5iUZ0FZs8TK3SuQP5ODhQR5wgDx7eAONLiXtuvrZj3G8/s1600/IMG_1154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5WzJpb3FRHtRnRRTcJTN1UV2_SrF_XBCqt-06ggDZDuRGeJsmHrS5BUUdREqRE4HWzgUfvq8AnnRgxUeJDkJ7QmGsOT0XvXS5iUZ0FZs8TK3SuQP5ODhQR5wgDx7eAONLiXtuvrZj3G8/s640/IMG_1154.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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This gives you a better idea of what this will look like once it is in your sewing machine and under the needle. I am using the same zigzag stitch that I used to attach the two pieces of elastic to each other (5.0 wide, 2.0 length). Once I have placed the needle in to the fabric, I will gently stretch the elastic to meet the pant material using my left hand to stretch behind the needle, and my right hand to stretch in front of the needle. It is very important not to try to use the needle and one hand to stretch the elastic. This can mess up the timing on your machine, break needles, and just wreak all kinds of havoc. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgac0Zj8uY8wIFx4U_nNeFeHWoakhjoPSki4ZTdpIrNiYq_6tNUFWpNh2f1hF3MsjIhhT-j4lAixJ4uvI7-u7qTyHg_TVPO48cjmE_uhNI09oIXQjpKMkodWzux0sD1uxx2P5tMzXYEuZg/s1600/IMG_1156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgac0Zj8uY8wIFx4U_nNeFeHWoakhjoPSki4ZTdpIrNiYq_6tNUFWpNh2f1hF3MsjIhhT-j4lAixJ4uvI7-u7qTyHg_TVPO48cjmE_uhNI09oIXQjpKMkodWzux0sD1uxx2P5tMzXYEuZg/s640/IMG_1156.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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You could just stop at this step and be done with the waistband. I wanted to run a row of topstitching along the top of the pant at the waist attachment to help keep the elastic neat and turned in the proper direction. To do this, I turned my elastic up (how it would be when I wear the pants). I set my machine for a straight stitch with a 3.0 length. Then I stretched the elastic to it's maximum stretch and ran a stitch through the pant fabric, and the elastic that is on the inside of the pants (where we had attached the elastic to the pants).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken Needle #1</td></tr>
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Over the course of this seam, I proceeded to break not one, but two needles. This was completely my fault and not my machines.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken Needle #2</td></tr>
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I have my machine set to stop with the needle down in the fabric. When you are sewing through elastic that you are having to stretch by hand, you always want the machine to stop with the needle up. Otherwise, when you let go of the fabric/elastic to readjust the area you are stretching the elastic will move and snap your needle.</div>
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If you have never snapped a needle before <strike>what kind of sewing sorcerer are you</strike>, there are some things that you will want to know here. It is very important to make sure that the bottom of the needle does not drop down in to your machine as it is a PITA to try to retrieve and could do major damage to your machine if you tried to sew and forgot the needle piece was in there. I generally go ahead and cut the thread with the fabric and presser foot still in place, remove the broken needle piece, and then go about changing my needle. You will just want to start your stitches about three stitches back from the point where you broke the needle.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJi1oG6Ne4YzJvZaMe4WVAWLxCVTlGvZKA5BqECfxTxHjjL_llBzQmB6TGbCNkdyP71oXv0xfFN8KChbFI9YbbXMcSrAj0HPpweNYoRngXDkibGirIazoU6x9TckZ6wJZ8J5f4RVrrWU/s1600/IMG_1224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJi1oG6Ne4YzJvZaMe4WVAWLxCVTlGvZKA5BqECfxTxHjjL_llBzQmB6TGbCNkdyP71oXv0xfFN8KChbFI9YbbXMcSrAj0HPpweNYoRngXDkibGirIazoU6x9TckZ6wJZ8J5f4RVrrWU/s640/IMG_1224.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front of Style Arc Misty Jeans</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of Style Arc Misty Jeans</td></tr>
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<br />Once you have finished the topstitching, the front and back of your jeans will look something like the pictures above. See how the fabric puckers evenly between each stitch? That is what we are going for. I know that some of the more advanced sewist participating in the sewalong are using the harder method of encasing the pant fabric between the two elastic pieces. I can't wait to see how those jeans turn out.<div>
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Our final step here is to sew the lower hem of the pants.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27vT4184rgliKkZEJ7Gh5mQLySFgKhLy0C6dlVXF8BhozPrCVqqiRS0yWiUVSVvR-rRm1bSikyJAdJj-sOqoVPvE5wtJvYX7mzZze64ra4c7G9QzGpjKSuCIABurvxuQDDorHAHB37Uw/s1600/IMG_1167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27vT4184rgliKkZEJ7Gh5mQLySFgKhLy0C6dlVXF8BhozPrCVqqiRS0yWiUVSVvR-rRm1bSikyJAdJj-sOqoVPvE5wtJvYX7mzZze64ra4c7G9QzGpjKSuCIABurvxuQDDorHAHB37Uw/s640/IMG_1167.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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For this step you will need to employ a friend, spouse, or kiddo to pin the your hem. Put your Misty Jeans on inside out and flip the lower hem up. Have your helper get the hem even and pin it in place (then go check it in the mirror).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswOs_UcOUrfqe0OACu_rcwjCk1vSMshAOJC0VA5pMf_CkaQ3vGechIq8Te3QAzQBZsLOKTPEu1NfRlpr04vGci9fJqLnCvPeL1Vvl9TZFtlL6naF8IyyjOzKZzKqHeet-8-0ojBHeIX0/s1600/IMG_1207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswOs_UcOUrfqe0OACu_rcwjCk1vSMshAOJC0VA5pMf_CkaQ3vGechIq8Te3QAzQBZsLOKTPEu1NfRlpr04vGci9fJqLnCvPeL1Vvl9TZFtlL6naF8IyyjOzKZzKqHeet-8-0ojBHeIX0/s640/IMG_1207.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice my helper pinned the pins in the wrong direction</td></tr>
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Once you are satisfied with the hem, take your pants off, and press the hem in place. I like to do this around a tailor's ham, but have had equal success just pressing the hem flat.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proper Pin Placement</td></tr>
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After you have pressed your seam and then removed the pins, it is time to set up your sewing machine for this final step.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQzA4J6VzFjX6cHGxaSP8-Ahi6CzoJ-iFcoIxBN8gf63FDLAg9u0yBtQANZD2nfiD7ew8BjrTyTJ4EV97v8fNg8NwrgaKlnFmzlDjVv9VIGLr26b_AIP3SeoMrrRNFYlx-if_XYp7TFk/s1600/IMG_1222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQzA4J6VzFjX6cHGxaSP8-Ahi6CzoJ-iFcoIxBN8gf63FDLAg9u0yBtQANZD2nfiD7ew8BjrTyTJ4EV97v8fNg8NwrgaKlnFmzlDjVv9VIGLr26b_AIP3SeoMrrRNFYlx-if_XYp7TFk/s640/IMG_1222.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Insert a double needle, select the double needle setting if your machine has that function. Select a straight stitch with a 3.0 stitch length.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4hwo2H9ZcwPza59VPRjU4ZC29r_9FjDauFFXTCuzt-vgYgGc_f2xd9HT7eulUjcDsqWNDRuq7q2_WCqqzXUM0nE7LZzVt5s5iXuQg9MIhy0idVt93r06Z3uzzOhnzhnXjejwAtUupKaA/s1600/IMG_1212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4hwo2H9ZcwPza59VPRjU4ZC29r_9FjDauFFXTCuzt-vgYgGc_f2xd9HT7eulUjcDsqWNDRuq7q2_WCqqzXUM0nE7LZzVt5s5iXuQg9MIhy0idVt93r06Z3uzzOhnzhnXjejwAtUupKaA/s640/IMG_1212.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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If your machine has a removable free arm, take it off to reveal your perfect space for sewing pant hems. If you don't have a removable free arm (why does that now sound right) then you can still sew this, the free arm just makes it a little easier is all.</div>
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Turn your pants right side out and remove your pins. Your pressed edge will be your guide. Line the pressed edge of your pants hem up with the one inch line on the throat plate of your machine. If you don't have a one inch line, just put a piece of tape one inch out from the center point where your needle would align for a straight stitch. Does that make sense? I like to start hem stitching at my inseam. Just sew a twin needle stitch all the way around the pant hem, and do the same for the other leg, making sure to overlap your stitches at the beginning/end for a few stitches. Now press the hem to set the stitches, trim your excess fabric from the inside of the hem, and guess what? WE ARE DONE!!! Yay!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neatly Trimmed Hem</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZMgw82-U8__OlhLyPIbheEU5QGUP8Ivr_txgB5W-VgaPnVS2yD9YD8fSSAOQeq8QcupxwsrE0ZQRY3VBW3-giMQS5Cbwd-ya3hs-eh8M40ypeAb9clXFjeHt6WTkaxkZjQ8BFAk0R2o/s1600/IMG_1237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZMgw82-U8__OlhLyPIbheEU5QGUP8Ivr_txgB5W-VgaPnVS2yD9YD8fSSAOQeq8QcupxwsrE0ZQRY3VBW3-giMQS5Cbwd-ya3hs-eh8M40ypeAb9clXFjeHt6WTkaxkZjQ8BFAk0R2o/s640/IMG_1237.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
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Friends, thank you so much for sticking with me through the ups and downs of October and making it to the end of this Sewalong. You are real troopers! Tomorrow (hopefully) I will have the reveal post up along with the details for entering your own Misty Jeans into the sewalong to win cool swag. I can tell you today that I have decided to leave the entry open til November 30th. If you guys are having half the craziness in your lives that I am having, I know that you will need the extra time.</div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-80777884398363282082015-10-27T11:14:00.000-04:002015-11-04T12:22:42.106-05:00Sewing the Side Seams and Adjusting the Fit - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, it is a rainy dreary day here in Indiana. Quite appropriate as my hubby's company announced a major lay-off looming before year's end! My mind is whirling over this. I will probably get in to this a little more down the road. But today, we focus on sewing.<br />
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First some commentary about the Misty Jeans pattern. If you have already sewn ahead, I want to know how your jeans are fitting. I have had one sewist state that her jeans were small. Like, can't get them past her knees small. Aside from her, everyone else has stated that the jeans are big. I, myself sewed the size 30, when the pattern showed I needed a size 34. I sized down because my fabric had a good amount of stretch though.<br />
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There also seems to be some variance with how the pdf pattern is fitting. So, please tell me what you are finding friends.<br />
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Sewing the side seams of the Misty Jeans is actually a pretty easy step. It is just one long line of stitches on each side of the jeans. It is so easy that I forgot to take pictures. Since you are sewing this seam in the direction that your fabric doesn't have any stretch you can use a straight stitch for the entire seam. I used a 2.5 stitch length.<br />
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Here is the picture I posted on <a href="https://instagram.com/pandorasews/">Instagram</a> after I sewed the side seams (did you see the floral denim I posted yesterday?).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJ27mxxZFDKE697B_uwgyHquszr1xSlOzsFuZgMPKf0MspnQz1sZlwtQzSXx-84Sn1O6s-GS1DUROz06QFrpdEt7eMr23-N5kQp92KER-NCHueC0N0ij5_ayQ5LObxnSWvpzFByqvhM0/s1600/instgram+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgJ27mxxZFDKE697B_uwgyHquszr1xSlOzsFuZgMPKf0MspnQz1sZlwtQzSXx-84Sn1O6s-GS1DUROz06QFrpdEt7eMr23-N5kQp92KER-NCHueC0N0ij5_ayQ5LObxnSWvpzFByqvhM0/s640/instgram+pic.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fit in the behind is pretty good. I could still use a sway back adjustment, but for the most part, I am pleased with the fit of the backside. In the front there is a slight amount of pulling from the crotch seam towards the upper hip. Some would call this a diagonal smile wrinkle. This indicates that I need to lengthen the crotch. Because of this, when I revisit this pattern, I will add length to the height of the crotch as well as the depth. <br />
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The biggest offender here to my eyes is the saggy baggy knee look that I have going on. This is because I have knock knees. I was born with knock knees. My own family teased me endlessly about the fact that I couldn't stand at attention with my ankles together. On my next pair of Misty Jeans, I will need to make a knock knee adjustment. The easiest way to explain this is that you redraft the lower portion of the pattern to match how your legs come down from your hips.<br />
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Way back in 2011 <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/">Colette</a> released a <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet">Pants Fitting Cheat Sheet</a>. This little sheet is a wealth of knowledge for figuring out what is wrong with the fit of your pants. Most of the adjustments are linked to tutorials that will help you perform the adjustments. My best advice is to start from the waist and work your way down fixing the fitting issues with pants. Once you figure out what your own personal fitting issues are, you will be able to quickly make these adjustments to every pants pattern.<br />
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Because I will not be able to make the crotch adjustments needed, I will go ahead and put the waistband in to these pants. They are wearable as is, they just need the mentioned adjustments to look their best. As for the legs/knee issues, I will be taking them in from just above the knee on the side seams. This isn't a true fix to the knock knee issue, but it will help some. If you are bow legged, you would want to take the leg in from the inseam. If you have legs that come straight down from your hips (the way patterns are drafted) but needed to take the legs in, you would want to take the pants in equally from the inseam and the side seam. Does this make sense?<br />
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With this pattern, it would be much easier to make adjustments before you put the waistband in the pants, just make sure that you are pulling the pants up to where they would fit with the waistband in. <br />
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I hope this portion of the sewalong hasn't been too confusing. If you need help figuring out the adjustments that you need, don't hesitate to comment below.<br />
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Up Next: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/11/sewing-waist-and-finishing-touches.html">Adding the Elastic Waist and the Finishing Touches</a></div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-11698486547282812132015-10-22T13:05:00.000-04:002015-10-27T11:15:12.332-04:00Sewing the Crotch Curve and Mock Fly - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, we are in the homestretch here! Those of you who follow me on Instagram got a little sneak peak yesterday at something that is starting to resemble jeans. <br />
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Today we are sewing the crotch curve and mock fly. I don't really like that word <strike>crotch</strike>, but I can't really call it the lady business curve, or the down there curve. Can I?</div>
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Our first order of business is to pin the crotch curve together. What that means, is we want to take the two pieces that we now have, and pin them together at the seam that goes around the crotch. This also encompasses the mock fly area.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3UiBTEdLd8hnCuyZawSVb9DPEA4RG127K12pD9BjWqRGo5A4T-n0YY9SIJMJG7x9s9hDDczZatoGlRzLBqV2p0COJu4P2N5NlwT_QKWYHNTUV7SHVzhGER8BwtCQFgZ6_KdtbGCYSX0/s1600/IMG_0942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3UiBTEdLd8hnCuyZawSVb9DPEA4RG127K12pD9BjWqRGo5A4T-n0YY9SIJMJG7x9s9hDDczZatoGlRzLBqV2p0COJu4P2N5NlwT_QKWYHNTUV7SHVzhGER8BwtCQFgZ6_KdtbGCYSX0/s640/IMG_0942.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Starting at the mock fly begin placing your pins through your two garment pieces. As you can see in the picture above I made a little boo boo while I was cutting my fabric. Fortunately, this nick in to the seam allowance is more shallow than the actual seam allowance. Otherwise, I would have had to re-cut these pieces.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sYrRYkrxri3R5ieH-wBu1gsmISydwrswVKDSW0IKnjHxjqxesBiRdoLQk87obgZzoVdSJklPLC6SvcSt-WWJhab7J_VG9sseiuG_T7kgmUDWK_Ttg67pzu1ykHX1ffq79sIE9Eg_VF0/s1600/IMG_0944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sYrRYkrxri3R5ieH-wBu1gsmISydwrswVKDSW0IKnjHxjqxesBiRdoLQk87obgZzoVdSJklPLC6SvcSt-WWJhab7J_VG9sseiuG_T7kgmUDWK_Ttg67pzu1ykHX1ffq79sIE9Eg_VF0/s640/IMG_0944.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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As we pin our way around the curve, we want to make sure that all of our notches are aligned. I like to put pins at each of the notch points, or in the case of a double notch like the one above, I will just pin in between the two notches. </div>
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Can I just talk about something off topic for a sec? In every photo of my thumb, it looks like I have a dirty thumb nail. I don't. I don't know why it looks this way either, except that I have really deep nail beds that have a very dark red line between the pink and the white part of my nail. But the rest of my nails don't seem to look that way. Anyway, I just wanted to say something about it, because it really bothers me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrvjAEdEd9-9Bjx4Iq8E7dGx1e1WSVnJhRjIV0vRS7HlkJ815QrXIFA45K5n881vB3LdQTgK4kKHTAz1DxrVe_STAutDgM4QYKH2BGuo9ugdjA1dVY5BYU3gbC0o3OGhli_jpgLhPYtQ/s1600/IMG_0949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrvjAEdEd9-9Bjx4Iq8E7dGx1e1WSVnJhRjIV0vRS7HlkJ815QrXIFA45K5n881vB3LdQTgK4kKHTAz1DxrVe_STAutDgM4QYKH2BGuo9ugdjA1dVY5BYU3gbC0o3OGhli_jpgLhPYtQ/s640/IMG_0949.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This photo is of the area where the two inseams come together through the curve. I always push the seam allowances in opposite directions so that I am not sewing through 6 layers of material at this juncture. I like to put my pin straight down through the two inseams so that when they are sewn they will line up nicely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGsum4h1CqqHtSJ7Ab6xbCpUxAGjqqnPNue9iIlTGKgMG2GgMm_4On3o_vA4ijOFg2ccPj9f_31pvyu4Gqeh-cST0K2ASao_Rg5Dp9Z0FQPDkWASB5KFiVpI0Bbnehi8wQ7AXorDqZ2Vs/s1600/IMG_0945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGsum4h1CqqHtSJ7Ab6xbCpUxAGjqqnPNue9iIlTGKgMG2GgMm_4On3o_vA4ijOFg2ccPj9f_31pvyu4Gqeh-cST0K2ASao_Rg5Dp9Z0FQPDkWASB5KFiVpI0Bbnehi8wQ7AXorDqZ2Vs/s1600/IMG_0945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="604" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGsum4h1CqqHtSJ7Ab6xbCpUxAGjqqnPNue9iIlTGKgMG2GgMm_4On3o_vA4ijOFg2ccPj9f_31pvyu4Gqeh-cST0K2ASao_Rg5Dp9Z0FQPDkWASB5KFiVpI0Bbnehi8wQ7AXorDqZ2Vs/s640/IMG_0945.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I forgot to take an up close shot, but I also made sure that the seam of the yoke lined up evenly so that it will match after sewing these two pieces together.</div>
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At this point we are ready to sew this seam. You are going to want to use your lightning bolt stitch here because this is probably the most stretchy seam of the entire sew. This seam is sewn with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. If you are like me and have paranoia about only having one line of stitching holding your arse in, go ahead and sew a second row of stitching at the 1/4 inch line of the seam allowance.</div>
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Once you have finished your yoke should look something like this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT3tkKY1KeeE4NyTB23sXVzcD12mBFh-OGqqlcT26bPYFrkeCPwQDxKbnI0sSaRhHPJLSwsEWi1KU2TMXgSFNfT76f0fdhMNgsOVHC6zZChi7gI3s7Tr2liH2ORygfX_8TZc6GjoIo8g/s1600/IMG_0952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT3tkKY1KeeE4NyTB23sXVzcD12mBFh-OGqqlcT26bPYFrkeCPwQDxKbnI0sSaRhHPJLSwsEWi1KU2TMXgSFNfT76f0fdhMNgsOVHC6zZChi7gI3s7Tr2liH2ORygfX_8TZc6GjoIo8g/s640/IMG_0952.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Now can you read the word that is printed on this fabric? Friends, I am going to have the word WASH all over my arse. I have mixed emotions about this! Thing is, you really and truly don't see it in the print, but the camera lens picks it up like crazy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_SKb69Vp2SKUCWdQ0PZcaljluW_bKNEdAT2Y96V70UMRKXJcDs4XzCYBPH0f0SWc5HWtzzxfBZg2qo4nW6e8wRw5XpFhiRgGZJfB6GYxkGyBtzY2LXiJLgayJIKUUNW162Xwj_kVwl8/s1600/IMG_0983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_SKb69Vp2SKUCWdQ0PZcaljluW_bKNEdAT2Y96V70UMRKXJcDs4XzCYBPH0f0SWc5HWtzzxfBZg2qo4nW6e8wRw5XpFhiRgGZJfB6GYxkGyBtzY2LXiJLgayJIKUUNW162Xwj_kVwl8/s640/IMG_0983.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Hopefully the outside of your crotch curve seam looks something like this. If you are new to sewing and your seams are off by a 1/4 inch or so, don't beat yourself up over it. My best advice is that you have to think about lining things up where the seam allowance is instead of at the edge of the fabric. Does that make sense? Remember too, hopefully no one is going to be getting down and inspecting your crotch curve seam. So unless you sit in a very un-ladylike manner, no one will ever see this seam.<br />
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Serger Sewists - IF that is a big capital IF, you are really comfortable with your serger this is a great seam to sew with it. I would personally fold the mock fly back and start sewing at the start of the crotch curve that meets with the mock fly, and sew out to the yoke end. Then, I would flip my garment and sew from where the mock fly meets the crotch curve up to the waist. Unless you have mad serger skills, I WOULD NOT attempt to sew this as one long seam. Only you know your limits, and you could mock this seam up on some practice fabric and see how you do. Just remember once the knife cuts the fabric, there is no going back.<br />
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Now on to the mock fly. The first thing that we want to do is mark the sewing line from the waist to the end of the fly curve. You want this line to be parallel to the straight edge of the mock fly and to join to the stitch line for the rest of the crotch curve.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z_vUnL0a9ZB76IENbWePaA1aGzWnfoBFUOjWDccwY3Qntl9zYZhA77YFSMfWC-yG7eW35kXVmjtxQbB-oURODhyphenhyphenkXKNhUqJ67-JGj40hAm2g3HpfZ3K-W8Moj9GgqMUCQ9pztG-lR1A/s1600/IMG_0953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z_vUnL0a9ZB76IENbWePaA1aGzWnfoBFUOjWDccwY3Qntl9zYZhA77YFSMfWC-yG7eW35kXVmjtxQbB-oURODhyphenhyphenkXKNhUqJ67-JGj40hAm2g3HpfZ3K-W8Moj9GgqMUCQ9pztG-lR1A/s640/IMG_0953.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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A good ruler and tailor's chalk are important tools for sewing. A box of multi color tailor's chalk is relatively inexpensive and will last you for a very long time!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7PNuwhmkI3vE060kIslw_ZgwgJkS-b48IsFbJhtPaLTUi2VW_FKO-60tVvZtop1ZYhoXvnXzGgxgIMoH7jvOo5OcS2idhREs0CtEaf9uW_XeqhZoPWKfBqiJi3pXU4y8KZQk27g4oMk/s1600/IMG_0958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7PNuwhmkI3vE060kIslw_ZgwgJkS-b48IsFbJhtPaLTUi2VW_FKO-60tVvZtop1ZYhoXvnXzGgxgIMoH7jvOo5OcS2idhREs0CtEaf9uW_XeqhZoPWKfBqiJi3pXU4y8KZQk27g4oMk/s640/IMG_0958.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Once you have your line drawn, go ahead and pin the fly area together. You don't want your fabric to shift while you are sewing this line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CkEI2839CeWPM4lc9vWDj2I_5Rag0t6qORa6VKlM2ozmN5XhvWBqi_D9cDQ3S5wT394ZB_h-FF6AQeHXMeOLAUx5tOuel12aRakS-mUDEqaWMQJd3USTvTCryJ83YXndWZwA_WFaEF0/s1600/IMG_0963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8CkEI2839CeWPM4lc9vWDj2I_5Rag0t6qORa6VKlM2ozmN5XhvWBqi_D9cDQ3S5wT394ZB_h-FF6AQeHXMeOLAUx5tOuel12aRakS-mUDEqaWMQJd3USTvTCryJ83YXndWZwA_WFaEF0/s640/IMG_0963.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Now, sew a straight line ending a few stitches in to where your chalk line meets the crotch curve. I used a straight stitch here, because these stitches are not going in the direction of the stretch of my fabric. I used a 2.5 stitch length, because I wanted a tighter/smaller stitch for this application.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdIlNO4F9e7fENTaSdu9Tit3hO5a6GzaV5O0T_7Ajp9-6vloeOQDSyPRp_bDk8Sc0r2F5VzCm7Bk4c_0SoZxP9sEWpAy8YMphY1lJ3yJq95LJ-ayzlmO2l_hpGJciWcvmBDaAlQxViO8/s1600/IMG_0964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMdIlNO4F9e7fENTaSdu9Tit3hO5a6GzaV5O0T_7Ajp9-6vloeOQDSyPRp_bDk8Sc0r2F5VzCm7Bk4c_0SoZxP9sEWpAy8YMphY1lJ3yJq95LJ-ayzlmO2l_hpGJciWcvmBDaAlQxViO8/s640/IMG_0964.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Hopefully, in the picture above you can see that the stitching ends a few stitches in to the crotch curve seam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyqhKb-ZEntr1HSRxKy47qXX_5i_zafPKgvsjQL5sf25bEJ2zNdBMbJiHqjo375PFzRrT6odoEdcmN7Iz3TNWKxs5x7P44NWjElgF1tUXq_vzmzQPLTIHfr4yc-MrnHiSZkpefHavGZI/s1600/IMG_0966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyqhKb-ZEntr1HSRxKy47qXX_5i_zafPKgvsjQL5sf25bEJ2zNdBMbJiHqjo375PFzRrT6odoEdcmN7Iz3TNWKxs5x7P44NWjElgF1tUXq_vzmzQPLTIHfr4yc-MrnHiSZkpefHavGZI/s640/IMG_0966.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now, with our mock fly spread open with the right side of the garment facing down, we want to press the mock fly towards the right.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUxxTKPDiCEuo1nHEl5iZGZg-6Zy_EZUlP4rrej46wsbAPb44YNOWRisjsHhX0KPExXldNHMEraUImICeYz-9Ff6Ep8wb5UN_NpNBTd0WHZWs7Qx6foqCUc51m2ulxX7BZ70TY7q3BipA/s1600/IMG_0968.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUxxTKPDiCEuo1nHEl5iZGZg-6Zy_EZUlP4rrej46wsbAPb44YNOWRisjsHhX0KPExXldNHMEraUImICeYz-9Ff6Ep8wb5UN_NpNBTd0WHZWs7Qx6foqCUc51m2ulxX7BZ70TY7q3BipA/s640/IMG_0968.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Again, using our clapper here will help get a nice crisp seam, so if you have one, use it. If you don't have one, might I suggest a heavy book.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMNQsQpaqDGylERNkmrJk_tFYy6kDSnuMphWcnvYC-bsaKEJ9-O35PVd2eKNZ0BAwZlYpnuDSchuoWauHLSVYA-zMPKQUtpKeLOsLgMeeepvRWzjgiJSVs-2mQnbXxDpXMK70XDX45KE/s1600/IMG_0969.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMNQsQpaqDGylERNkmrJk_tFYy6kDSnuMphWcnvYC-bsaKEJ9-O35PVd2eKNZ0BAwZlYpnuDSchuoWauHLSVYA-zMPKQUtpKeLOsLgMeeepvRWzjgiJSVs-2mQnbXxDpXMK70XDX45KE/s640/IMG_0969.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Once the mock fly is pressed flat it will look something like this. Is your fabric fraying like mine is?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXdzD1klZH8rdARardZ-oj0VKv5kTAbDudx1FioLY7Wx4s8jQm2aAiUes0U5LcWummjTleSQth1CDfY2XUb55j362YJ5bxOQOZj1r6iZkDwUuqMdEmbktLycKLUaK0Ew5AOQjiKpJ2J8/s1600/IMG_0970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXdzD1klZH8rdARardZ-oj0VKv5kTAbDudx1FioLY7Wx4s8jQm2aAiUes0U5LcWummjTleSQth1CDfY2XUb55j362YJ5bxOQOZj1r6iZkDwUuqMdEmbktLycKLUaK0Ew5AOQjiKpJ2J8/s640/IMG_0970.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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When we flip the fabric over to the other side (the right side), you should have a crisp seam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLve02XjOSEc5YiOkKbwqt_xa0zFMtz0zGak_KdwAjFgZo7zhXDzVFZ5C_ie9HscF7x-Y2GEP7Q6WtYqrXx-KCXV7J9WGO84-E3CZ3D7Hz3PktF9nXLDJUbQ8z9FVkCCicfFN7ZBHSv_8/s1600/IMG_0971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLve02XjOSEc5YiOkKbwqt_xa0zFMtz0zGak_KdwAjFgZo7zhXDzVFZ5C_ie9HscF7x-Y2GEP7Q6WtYqrXx-KCXV7J9WGO84-E3CZ3D7Hz3PktF9nXLDJUbQ8z9FVkCCicfFN7ZBHSv_8/s640/IMG_0971.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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So that we know where to stitch, you want to feel the edge of your mock fly through the fabric, and then use your chalk to mark along the edge.</div>
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Now let's put our double needle back in to our sewing machine. The instructions did not call for a double needle here, but I like the continuity of it, and I like the way the double needle is going to catch the edge of the raw fabric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKxdCdGnyxpY-BMiwC7UMNazQuTK8ciYmiZMrNhPTHx_L5vinedEr27Zm53B_wv__wiJWHYgwDnb3pE4qXqEWryzLpc1JWXpng1LXQj3_uMSe-lTtx1dW0tw7Jj8x_C96rsnC-40vle_c/s1600/IMG_0974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKxdCdGnyxpY-BMiwC7UMNazQuTK8ciYmiZMrNhPTHx_L5vinedEr27Zm53B_wv__wiJWHYgwDnb3pE4qXqEWryzLpc1JWXpng1LXQj3_uMSe-lTtx1dW0tw7Jj8x_C96rsnC-40vle_c/s640/IMG_0974.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I didn't pin the beginning of the seam here, but I did want to throw a couple of pins in to the curve, because that is where the fabric is most likely to shift. I placed the stitch/chalk line, just to the right of my left twin needle.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLLDciGeGvON5dwyc0HDH2sKbdxreplpqALXwm4xjATu0fsCmq1U37reKIjWeB1i8dY1xLkQiqnzQwdNCOTV_aY4qzQKolycQbFlQxxVzqMUnAz833rzJ6hiCDsswSQeJeO41neZcEso/s1600/IMG_0975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLLDciGeGvON5dwyc0HDH2sKbdxreplpqALXwm4xjATu0fsCmq1U37reKIjWeB1i8dY1xLkQiqnzQwdNCOTV_aY4qzQKolycQbFlQxxVzqMUnAz833rzJ6hiCDsswSQeJeO41neZcEso/s640/IMG_0975.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Remember to stitch forward and back to anchor the seam, and then go ahead and sew all the way to edge of the mock fly, also ending with a reverse and forward stitch. It may take a little practice to end your stitching right at the edge of the fly seam. Don't worry about it. Again, who is going to be down there inspecting your sewing prowess?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzyfQ4fNZwl2_bXGsOPNWBvOk9xVHp0xa7SDwil9ab7wWaKxzhCGr4EKtvkj-LdXQ0Igseujr60ZTe-jGnY9VYdYNtBwFgPyV49pbjLtgm9UFBmKFYX79S6zNpDyR1Sj5kEv3PmIeTgzY/s1600/IMG_0977.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzyfQ4fNZwl2_bXGsOPNWBvOk9xVHp0xa7SDwil9ab7wWaKxzhCGr4EKtvkj-LdXQ0Igseujr60ZTe-jGnY9VYdYNtBwFgPyV49pbjLtgm9UFBmKFYX79S6zNpDyR1Sj5kEv3PmIeTgzY/s640/IMG_0977.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This is what the finished mock fly will look like from the front. If you wanted to make this look even more like a real fly, you could add some top stitching down the straight seam of the fly, and even a bar tack. Those are all design details you can decide about on your own.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MwfHs7vpKZqb62ipZalZWzMvEshltGEqFgpiroymWMPjBXSihC1D_xGbM5sXb5HI1Xac4YcHwyYmUcQapKlpxqI8UtnbzFII0jBvI6cHI0LMwJK02DOWUj5swsGpBJUQJGh7yUcIca4/s1600/IMG_0978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MwfHs7vpKZqb62ipZalZWzMvEshltGEqFgpiroymWMPjBXSihC1D_xGbM5sXb5HI1Xac4YcHwyYmUcQapKlpxqI8UtnbzFII0jBvI6cHI0LMwJK02DOWUj5swsGpBJUQJGh7yUcIca4/s640/IMG_0978.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This is what the back side of the mock fly looks like when sewn with the twin needle. See how the raw edge is encased between the two rows of stitches? That is why I chose to use the twin needle and used the alignment that I chose with the stitch/chalk line and the left needle. Does it all make sense now?</div>
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That is all for this step, Friends. I can't believe that this project is almost finished, can you? Don't worry if you are running behind, because obviously I am too! You are going to have until November 15th to get your Misty Jeans made if you want to try to get in on the prize action.</div>
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Up Next: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-side-seams-and-adjusting-fit.html">Sewing the Side Seams</a></div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-66010914271701625782015-10-21T10:58:00.000-04:002015-10-22T13:06:14.850-04:00Sewing the Inseam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well Friends, so much for one post a day to get caught up! Today let's talk about sewing the inseam of the Misty Pull-On Jeans. This is actually a pretty simple step. <br />
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First let's match up the two sets of pattern pieces. You want to match left front pattern piece aka the piece with the coin pocket to the back right pattern piece. If you are looking at the back pieces on their right sides (right as in correct or the part that would be seen from the outside) then the back right (directional in this context) pattern piece would be the one where the wide part of the yoke is on the left and the outer narrow part of the yoke (hip edge) is on the right hand side. Does that make sense? Once those two pieces are paired, you know that the remaining two pieces pair together.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqDKvzGCSgLikjPEIJMC8oYSIsW0O1SwwDWbsR14tMPtKxA8Dr-xWzXIy59svOBKm8kDgXnXAwKn0OEZ7Ka6G9Zo3CjWrl9733-AfUffwWSLs1t4k-q7AK5YSG9l9rAjn-Aj_8p55mMo/s1600/IMG_0941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqDKvzGCSgLikjPEIJMC8oYSIsW0O1SwwDWbsR14tMPtKxA8Dr-xWzXIy59svOBKm8kDgXnXAwKn0OEZ7Ka6G9Zo3CjWrl9733-AfUffwWSLs1t4k-q7AK5YSG9l9rAjn-Aj_8p55mMo/s640/IMG_0941.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Align the Notches as You Sew</td></tr>
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With right sides together align the inseam for sewing start at the crotch end of the seam (the pointy end) and align the fabric matching the notches as you go. I don't pin the inseam. I get the crotch end started with a lightning bolt stitch with a 3/8 inch seam allowance, and sew through the curve with the lightning bolt stitch. Once I have exited the curve and will be sewing the straight line that goes all the way to the ankle, with my needle out of the fabric, I switch to a straight stitch and sew a 2.5 length straight stitch all the way down this line. As I go down the line, I use the notches along the way as the spot where I am holding the fabric together to insure that things line up properly. <br />
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The reason that I switch between stitches, is I need the stretch across the curve that the lightning bolt gives, but at the straight part of the inseam there is no stretch in the direction of the stitches, and I don't like the way a lightning bolt stitch feels rubbing against my inner thighs.<br />
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I don't know about you all, but one line of stitching is not enough to convince me these pants will stay sewn and on my derriere, so I go back and sew a second line of stitching at the 1/4 inch mark for security.<br />
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Repeat these steps with your other set of pattern pieces and this step is complete. <br />
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Serger Sewists- You can serge this entire seam, and there will be no need to go back and sew a second row for security.<br />
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Hope this set of instructions is clear, I was lite on photos.<br />
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Up Next: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-crotch-curve-and-mock-fly-style.html">Sewing the Crotch Seam</a><br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-39564187884930708052015-10-19T12:43:00.002-04:002015-10-21T10:58:59.755-04:00Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends. The plague still exists in our home, however I feel like enough of the fog has cleared that I will still be able to post a semi-intelligible bit of instruction, so here goes:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgljHtVfl0bSVN_FcHGsVRvVQz3PGz5wcNzzvjsDHSgzuJPqfCE2FOw2FqwJ-DhORX67k0W-RHE5dc7SjrlX93-A0OOktKI6qEW_V7hNGyapn0yrOeSlmB1YAmbHVHleqaZZFclLi4voLc/s1600/IMG_0889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgljHtVfl0bSVN_FcHGsVRvVQz3PGz5wcNzzvjsDHSgzuJPqfCE2FOw2FqwJ-DhORX67k0W-RHE5dc7SjrlX93-A0OOktKI6qEW_V7hNGyapn0yrOeSlmB1YAmbHVHleqaZZFclLi4voLc/s640/IMG_0889.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Initially, we are working with the front pattern pieces, and the pocket facing pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuN-GEYf3NrY0tOwYr8Fkyct9eHryFNNuWOvR-TTqVNttRGnhBMlL6kBU-3B0qRithcXhdqEkEE9yAqIQc-frQcbhbER93lXr3pVvnHfuu90rrKO9gp8FVz7X3fFlrynDRaU69dsafC8/s1600/IMG_0891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinuN-GEYf3NrY0tOwYr8Fkyct9eHryFNNuWOvR-TTqVNttRGnhBMlL6kBU-3B0qRithcXhdqEkEE9yAqIQc-frQcbhbER93lXr3pVvnHfuu90rrKO9gp8FVz7X3fFlrynDRaU69dsafC8/s640/IMG_0891.JPG" width="640" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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With right sides together we are going to stitch each pocket facing to it's respective front pattern piece.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIblzN6HMKXIJjAwMAjmR_-iGhm4CJJ1Y07WEkuaINPqws8-fM538AS9J9PgLAu6PjOEPrdi8BN338aGFpiKSfCjZiVX4BAH5OvaTmGWhyphenhyphenqhjHJWZO036pCRjjikZPAuqnc3uN_UuUMS0/s1600/IMG_0896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIblzN6HMKXIJjAwMAjmR_-iGhm4CJJ1Y07WEkuaINPqws8-fM538AS9J9PgLAu6PjOEPrdi8BN338aGFpiKSfCjZiVX4BAH5OvaTmGWhyphenhyphenqhjHJWZO036pCRjjikZPAuqnc3uN_UuUMS0/s640/IMG_0896.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Your notches will help you to remember this, but this seam has a 1/4 inch seam allowance instead of the normal 3/8 inch that most of the rest of the pattern has. Style Arc tends to use a 1/4 inch allowance on what they call internal seams. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsWutX1rIcsRp87T3VIpavv0SQER83rnrY6soamZFssiP_Fn0rt4PG5F_AiT9ypIYpSjpTCStWpel62YzWuWg5i6NoxAuTTh0QfTqCFP2d1T9c-54CD9ZJGjiZw5tzyG05pGhuGfhmO4g/s1600/IMG_0901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsWutX1rIcsRp87T3VIpavv0SQER83rnrY6soamZFssiP_Fn0rt4PG5F_AiT9ypIYpSjpTCStWpel62YzWuWg5i6NoxAuTTh0QfTqCFP2d1T9c-54CD9ZJGjiZw5tzyG05pGhuGfhmO4g/s640/IMG_0901.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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I am still using the lightning bolt stretch stitch here, because the bottom of this faux pocket will need to be able to stretch.<br />
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Serging sewists- this is a great application for your serger, just make sure that you follow the 1/4 inch seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPt5bwK-hf3vJC8UEkuIWQUw1QOSw8w1kgeECRB_BvyvjSs2pXBzIEHn1p2IsrNnBqnIs21xq7dfI0ITVILQp2Mp8KO1L3R4cZRgQNJ-V30P9dBoMaSet6WBb-khm6-oihZHrfZjeioo/s1600/IMG_0908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPt5bwK-hf3vJC8UEkuIWQUw1QOSw8w1kgeECRB_BvyvjSs2pXBzIEHn1p2IsrNnBqnIs21xq7dfI0ITVILQp2Mp8KO1L3R4cZRgQNJ-V30P9dBoMaSet6WBb-khm6-oihZHrfZjeioo/s640/IMG_0908.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Once the seam has been sewn, we need to flip the pocket facing to the inside and press it. Remember to use your silk setting because of the lycra.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgauT0DBxR0ix3TfGPcMzREMpHDFcjly_-n6i3Rt3Ck2-H72DHfjjuVwxn1TSigEGfEI5SLvgojuUrTz_0Bv2EBcvoEYmtdLilM1qZk7dBvQBpSq-vZPLcOFp6GodUbLu2AssEISMOaY9Y/s1600/IMG_0909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgauT0DBxR0ix3TfGPcMzREMpHDFcjly_-n6i3Rt3Ck2-H72DHfjjuVwxn1TSigEGfEI5SLvgojuUrTz_0Bv2EBcvoEYmtdLilM1qZk7dBvQBpSq-vZPLcOFp6GodUbLu2AssEISMOaY9Y/s640/IMG_0909.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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This is what the back side will look like after you press the pocket facing to the inside of the garment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ARV7XPcrj1-rHiO2-2n5dU2HiEc1XeIKBxtf4BBuHSmn5Pf7P_re5UOAdpcy8_HrnckQNE2sAI3jlfBu247V76KGdLPGYtTI9zsA0KjWl5X1-uj57OOj2l5Cza25uOhpeitjabGBJVA/s1600/IMG_0914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ARV7XPcrj1-rHiO2-2n5dU2HiEc1XeIKBxtf4BBuHSmn5Pf7P_re5UOAdpcy8_HrnckQNE2sAI3jlfBu247V76KGdLPGYtTI9zsA0KjWl5X1-uj57OOj2l5Cza25uOhpeitjabGBJVA/s640/IMG_0914.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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I ended up shearing my fabric at this seam. For the life of me, I am not sure how this happened. There are some thin spots in this fabric so I think that it is probably because I just sewed in the perfect spot. Doesn't leave me real confident that the jeans are going to contain my arse though. Since I will be twin needle sewing this seam, I am not going to worry about the sheared spot. The twin needle edge should give me plenty of hold.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQ-lSFQCZ0ZnUqy6qlrB2nOJjeCaW2PB3KQ0hcfHdw_oxLP95r0bZz38g0igYB3rAyD04dJV5D-kx807SORtsDIh6YPhvIG9iyIPANb9DAjX20v2gNkmzhUgg8rbst7TWKvAm_S1m-hA/s1600/IMG_0916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQ-lSFQCZ0ZnUqy6qlrB2nOJjeCaW2PB3KQ0hcfHdw_oxLP95r0bZz38g0igYB3rAyD04dJV5D-kx807SORtsDIh6YPhvIG9iyIPANb9DAjX20v2gNkmzhUgg8rbst7TWKvAm_S1m-hA/s640/IMG_0916.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Here we twin needle the edge of the pocket. I line the edge up with the 1/4 inch mark on my presser foot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AjJ79zvZXrjtrUM5v6l7gXjUMligZeVd95P0ijELmpjPkJpRVMedeYmeyQkLqttgnbWr8R5V2PfpHllEdJhAO3EAdKbB_1Y7Ucckfk1tNKaIFhgO4KubPn9-D7eDl-qT0-mfIxOYrzY/s1600/IMG_0918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2AjJ79zvZXrjtrUM5v6l7gXjUMligZeVd95P0ijELmpjPkJpRVMedeYmeyQkLqttgnbWr8R5V2PfpHllEdJhAO3EAdKbB_1Y7Ucckfk1tNKaIFhgO4KubPn9-D7eDl-qT0-mfIxOYrzY/s640/IMG_0918.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Once the edge has been sewn it looks all wonky and rippled. But, with the magic of a good iron and clapper...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORL76f4RZYgHKD_EUBtqgV9DXDb_62x5KH7DlJz-Cz6lwIvYFiYITN1LomHkCuV-IsJnMcMS81T5jMxW1U5stoaIKECuYqdcUsm10aFe9AeTVG2RRVVeVovSkpTz2RflR3sA2Y3mMhps/s1600/IMG_0919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORL76f4RZYgHKD_EUBtqgV9DXDb_62x5KH7DlJz-Cz6lwIvYFiYITN1LomHkCuV-IsJnMcMS81T5jMxW1U5stoaIKECuYqdcUsm10aFe9AeTVG2RRVVeVovSkpTz2RflR3sA2Y3mMhps/s640/IMG_0919.JPG" width="452" /></a></div>
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We are able to press the seam back to it's original shape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXyRTz4GPPi_cwPZwynVChwbJ_XbI5AU6HLG_GhFev6RJDsBf0-kkkTTFbZtazE2k4qy8yWnC5RMzAHqYPUd3rzfEjEgKQ2npsK2XDlZNSbVXsTys6ne7wvDTnmrtqOomylITq64Qz-g/s1600/IMG_0922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXyRTz4GPPi_cwPZwynVChwbJ_XbI5AU6HLG_GhFev6RJDsBf0-kkkTTFbZtazE2k4qy8yWnC5RMzAHqYPUd3rzfEjEgKQ2npsK2XDlZNSbVXsTys6ne7wvDTnmrtqOomylITq64Qz-g/s640/IMG_0922.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Here is what the back of this seam will look like once it is finished.</div>
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Now, we move on to the next step which is attaching the front pockets to the pocket facings. We will need the piece that we just finished working on along with the left and right front pockets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2bTz-3hV_UYxvH6K5vDveJJ3Z6V29TSlyZAV8yJj685JwAhUk3AJeiNVoYdvCSjtzVO9m7cqyeksayR-sfkQgs66JJLcfGVYDR8CjEhXD77X5eDKt-OkaWOrEHrPBuW4SukqfdnGcdA/s1600/IMG_0925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX2bTz-3hV_UYxvH6K5vDveJJ3Z6V29TSlyZAV8yJj685JwAhUk3AJeiNVoYdvCSjtzVO9m7cqyeksayR-sfkQgs66JJLcfGVYDR8CjEhXD77X5eDKt-OkaWOrEHrPBuW4SukqfdnGcdA/s640/IMG_0925.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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We need to pin the pockets to their pocket facings. Remember that your coin pocket goes on the left side, and the plain one goes on the right side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg595uKei1gKh2AuI1iyWkRXFrGUmePIYQ9caKpwlJSGl4C6_NbZ0R1B3OhcUxr5yKofBzvb9GINQ62WN4bqnAgIZlOEzj9fGTF1OvcT0aILJbfrOdqBtj92ZqDYW-23LtEV9chHn7Cy8M/s1600/IMG_0926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg595uKei1gKh2AuI1iyWkRXFrGUmePIYQ9caKpwlJSGl4C6_NbZ0R1B3OhcUxr5yKofBzvb9GINQ62WN4bqnAgIZlOEzj9fGTF1OvcT0aILJbfrOdqBtj92ZqDYW-23LtEV9chHn7Cy8M/s640/IMG_0926.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Make sure that your pocket notches line up the notches in the pocket facings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJVd2pswk7EgmJtpbPCOH_gzzgXaoIEEWzH6_05cUDtjPyTvl-8kObjXsooL5hd6qJZFwZtRbZkD-cksGUaErw4VA7TOfu6ff1jupTCFSZ1t5N3Ovj23wGzrJ8wVdXugmTPV2oZCpSmY/s1600/IMG_0928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJVd2pswk7EgmJtpbPCOH_gzzgXaoIEEWzH6_05cUDtjPyTvl-8kObjXsooL5hd6qJZFwZtRbZkD-cksGUaErw4VA7TOfu6ff1jupTCFSZ1t5N3Ovj23wGzrJ8wVdXugmTPV2oZCpSmY/s640/IMG_0928.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Now we are going to sew this seam with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. To me, this seam would be considered an internal seam, however the seam allowance marked on the pattern is clearly 3/8 inch for this seam.</div>
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Serger Sewists- This is a great seam to use your serger as well, just remember to jump back to using 3/8 seam allowance, and make sure you don't accidentally run your front pattern piece through the knife as you are sewing! Oh the horror!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwwVyptOlimvgH2mPbzAo7kE5XK1fDSeNeEzeivzk4cQ2XYIpJfrFmat6KawP5mLtj2KAO7pb7QtyXZ4C3L9DS-kFX4aaTYT1KOi_DucZy2AbHjXUBc5i7gP6YOHiWAjozZ1-gLLR8Jc/s1600/IMG_0929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwwVyptOlimvgH2mPbzAo7kE5XK1fDSeNeEzeivzk4cQ2XYIpJfrFmat6KawP5mLtj2KAO7pb7QtyXZ4C3L9DS-kFX4aaTYT1KOi_DucZy2AbHjXUBc5i7gP6YOHiWAjozZ1-gLLR8Jc/s640/IMG_0929.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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After we have sewn the pockets to the facings, we need to the pocket at the side seam and the waist seam. Think of this like you are closing the pocket up so that when you sew the side seams and the elastic in to the waist, the pocket won't get bunched or move out of place at these seams. I used a straight stitch, and sewed these just shy of 3/8 of an inch. You want your stitches to start just prior to the point where the pocket starts, and stitch on past where the pocket ends. I went about 3 stitches past, and started about 3 stitches prior. I used a 3.0 stitch length. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVD_ZNPX67m3_e-4pWIFwQoeISC2fC9tBRgWkNsFOhsFh1WHhw4RmxGAPqvOB2s7ZE4nPSo3OFFmm_vTS1sags_Mlbe-lM0I_OeF9jNBaC2YBa3i_hbIDpJDdS92kkri_wSaJRe05eEy0/s1600/IMG_0930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVD_ZNPX67m3_e-4pWIFwQoeISC2fC9tBRgWkNsFOhsFh1WHhw4RmxGAPqvOB2s7ZE4nPSo3OFFmm_vTS1sags_Mlbe-lM0I_OeF9jNBaC2YBa3i_hbIDpJDdS92kkri_wSaJRe05eEy0/s640/IMG_0930.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Once, I was finished this is what the front of the left pocket and left front piece looked like.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4W8Y_eY8nPhno-zIBaUY-lmAwU5S1S4fVNabWlo8xzs1GjIyu4DNfE4AfyFYmmpdnuCyhQw-PtOWh7PnUVf3sDQxxIKPLMQSJUJ9wDiiZVSdbmcWWKoaohL_ut51tvlwiUKYreqVrb8/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4W8Y_eY8nPhno-zIBaUY-lmAwU5S1S4fVNabWlo8xzs1GjIyu4DNfE4AfyFYmmpdnuCyhQw-PtOWh7PnUVf3sDQxxIKPLMQSJUJ9wDiiZVSdbmcWWKoaohL_ut51tvlwiUKYreqVrb8/s640/IMG_0934.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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This is a view of the back of the left front pocket and left front pattern piece sewn together.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuxXPvreDUgjfXEiMz_GPQuRaBVNEQ7-Nom2RXLPRyPhrxhLfEj-ZkJ3F3kT8wZhSvF6qDytae2oYtmpP-abTw6i6NoZ34z88Ag8jhOEbVlSjOqMUaWm9GCVEfOUCLYbDxDjSjegFhqUI/s1600/IMG_0935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuxXPvreDUgjfXEiMz_GPQuRaBVNEQ7-Nom2RXLPRyPhrxhLfEj-ZkJ3F3kT8wZhSvF6qDytae2oYtmpP-abTw6i6NoZ34z88Ag8jhOEbVlSjOqMUaWm9GCVEfOUCLYbDxDjSjegFhqUI/s640/IMG_0935.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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And here is a picture of the finished right pocket sewn to the right front pattern piece.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fvw8SaNCcJGWvANoAdFoZ4pkcO73Q54bTMLiO1xpSaCM2rl4MOhFSGT0N6yMgl_85HhZ-lBbOKaWDKXDX08XX-s7gG6Z87gtaLouaeU3709hheenRNc_fRW9rTrZNJLvCl9MZsRbjIU/s1600/IMG_0937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fvw8SaNCcJGWvANoAdFoZ4pkcO73Q54bTMLiO1xpSaCM2rl4MOhFSGT0N6yMgl_85HhZ-lBbOKaWDKXDX08XX-s7gG6Z87gtaLouaeU3709hheenRNc_fRW9rTrZNJLvCl9MZsRbjIU/s640/IMG_0937.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Friends, I hope I was able to keep everything straight through my brain fog and cold medicine stupor. Tell me, how are your Misty Jeans coming along? Let me know if you have any questions. </div>
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I will try to get one post up each day until I have caught back up with the schedule.</div>
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Up Next: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-inseam-style-arc-misty-pull-on.html">Sewing the Inseam</a></div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-66715073172957395692015-10-15T09:01:00.003-04:002015-10-15T09:01:50.116-04:00The Misty Jeans Sewalong - On Pause<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! Just a quick note to let you know that the plague has hit my house, and I have had to put this little sewalong on pause for a few days. Once myself and my kiddo are feeling better, I will do double time to get caught back up. Yes, I am sewing this pattern in real time instead of having a bunch of scheduled postings. It feels more authentic that way.<br />
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Give me a few days, and things will be back to normal.<br />
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Sorry! </div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-3001122340703472842015-10-12T11:35:00.000-04:002015-10-19T12:46:03.618-04:00Adding the Coin Pocket - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! The next step in making our Style Arc Misty Jeans is to add the coin pocket. The directions state, "For the coin pocket fold the seams inward and stitch with a twin needle across the pocket top, pin the coin pocket where marked on the right side pocket bearer, once in place stitch across the base and twin needle each side."<br />
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Here are the pattern pieces that we will be working with. The Pattern Pieces are named the Right Front Pocket and Coin Pocket on the pattern pieces, however the Right Front Pocket is referred to as the Right Side Pocket Bearer in the instructions.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXt9cmzBpJ4_eSf0XtWYzm0i6hU4A3no_MZJ0KQtGSJgP5jbgAjsNqwxQ-9YG0GLRt8oVyExR4sYuyJ0guz5f5Qo4kBRkse_h10JF-GMcvAVCuXr5dtiVG6KggwUjsGeHILbmXABy7gU/s1600/Pocket+Pieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXt9cmzBpJ4_eSf0XtWYzm0i6hU4A3no_MZJ0KQtGSJgP5jbgAjsNqwxQ-9YG0GLRt8oVyExR4sYuyJ0guz5f5Qo4kBRkse_h10JF-GMcvAVCuXr5dtiVG6KggwUjsGeHILbmXABy7gU/s640/Pocket+Pieces.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Front Pocket Piece and Coin Pocket Piece</td></tr>
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The first thing that we want to do is to press back the seam allowance at the top of the coin pocket. So, set your iron to the silk setting, get out your trusty clapper if you have one, and press that seam allowance back. A little tip here. When you are dealing with fabrics that may be hard to fold, if you will warm the fabric with the iron first and then fold the fabric, it will help the fabric keep a sharp crease, and make it easier to press the crease flat. Does that make sense? Just don't burn your fingers!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE8B6-hYlSWXehNLKOihbW0RrEVGxK888LJxjMYP_4FmUs2e4nmKD3-eWjEKGXSn2DZrV20NRV1Cs-wQkkgmyjQCERIlUP2aMLKBL9VMBMLCG9WPtlOg0uHWqcU4Fyp88p5Vl2FKnCwJE/s1600/Pressed+Down+Pocket+Edge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE8B6-hYlSWXehNLKOihbW0RrEVGxK888LJxjMYP_4FmUs2e4nmKD3-eWjEKGXSn2DZrV20NRV1Cs-wQkkgmyjQCERIlUP2aMLKBL9VMBMLCG9WPtlOg0uHWqcU4Fyp88p5Vl2FKnCwJE/s640/Pressed+Down+Pocket+Edge.jpg" width="542" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top Edge of Coin Pocket Pressed Down</td></tr>
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Now, we want to run a twin needle stitch across the top of the coin pocket. Our twin needle should still be in our machine, but just for a reminder we are using a Universal Wide Twin Needle (Size 6.0), I am still using a 3.5 stitch length. Somehow, I managed to not take a picture of this step. I lined the folded edge of the pocket up with the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot, and ran a twin needle stitch all the way across the top of the pocket.<br />
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Once the top of the pocket is stitched, it is time to move on to pressing the side seam allowances of the pocket down. Once you have done that, this is what your coin pocket will look like (pardon the blur).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXJP9xcA8cZQfyrJUzjM9cZ_yCFRTwFRcqVhJnmrf-mTSUUyHJECwXLbLh8WC2AQ2EiEe23TJM32_XRDxieNOnStGJ_plvpiukAIIoF4mLBOowMkrOK_50QLUorxXM8AAGwf-qefb7lE/s1600/Pocket+Top+Sewn+Edges+Pressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXJP9xcA8cZQfyrJUzjM9cZ_yCFRTwFRcqVhJnmrf-mTSUUyHJECwXLbLh8WC2AQ2EiEe23TJM32_XRDxieNOnStGJ_plvpiukAIIoF4mLBOowMkrOK_50QLUorxXM8AAGwf-qefb7lE/s640/Pocket+Top+Sewn+Edges+Pressed.jpg" width="444" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressed Back Edges after Twin Needle Stitching Top of Coin Pocket</td></tr>
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Now, we need to pin the Coin Pocket to the right side of the Right Front Pocket. Make sure that your folded seam allowances stay folded in when you do this. Line your Coin Pocket up with your markings on your Right Pocket Piece and pin the Coin Pocket in place I only pinned the pocket at the top corners. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhntrnsyVQ8iOrmZUQMpk90PHAToVvldPYUPTsW6XxbzJKYJyneWIsXf6gcOaHag1OvAJs7iTDfWPmBodjKbPylMZeBhcsJy0u5-Tn70KF8kkLNax2DTpliYJuZzJmMt9lZz0fIM5n5s/s1600/Pocket+Pinned+to+Facing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhntrnsyVQ8iOrmZUQMpk90PHAToVvldPYUPTsW6XxbzJKYJyneWIsXf6gcOaHag1OvAJs7iTDfWPmBodjKbPylMZeBhcsJy0u5-Tn70KF8kkLNax2DTpliYJuZzJmMt9lZz0fIM5n5s/s640/Pocket+Pinned+to+Facing.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coin Pocket Pinned to Right Front Pocket/Pocket Bearer</td></tr>
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With our Coin Pocket pinned in to place, it is time to twin needle stitch down the left and right side of the pocket. We will stitch and reverse stitch at the beginning and end of each seam to anchor the stitches. You want to start your stitches on the top row of twin needle stitches that run across the top of your coin pocket.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTU7u-A5MbKaQayQHTZKYNBeXMC80Y0MjpbjaNzKRJYJdi1X5oK1Kab6xheFvfLGSHQpuWYh63xhW4DdCxuIlbDYEgEGy3shWT1Dudp7NAhY86T5RvO-Zg5v38vpNyXrol-krxqv6bOg/s1600/Sewing+Pocket+to+Facing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTU7u-A5MbKaQayQHTZKYNBeXMC80Y0MjpbjaNzKRJYJdi1X5oK1Kab6xheFvfLGSHQpuWYh63xhW4DdCxuIlbDYEgEGy3shWT1Dudp7NAhY86T5RvO-Zg5v38vpNyXrol-krxqv6bOg/s640/Sewing+Pocket+to+Facing.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twin Needle Stitching the Coin Pocket to the Right Pocket Piece</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnQJZo5xZOTUSDT__Zj54qoxIvpZZrK1PgQGE8HE9aiKE8nzgtCVMemObI1Y-m-3kyKxFbr7YFN1Mwn5BzdXoNpmQ0JUGo5tSzLOGjdbSm2DXxQkvurxWatQfuISjHF5SEj-vjmQXXLE/s1600/Pocket+sewn+to+Facing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnQJZo5xZOTUSDT__Zj54qoxIvpZZrK1PgQGE8HE9aiKE8nzgtCVMemObI1Y-m-3kyKxFbr7YFN1Mwn5BzdXoNpmQ0JUGo5tSzLOGjdbSm2DXxQkvurxWatQfuISjHF5SEj-vjmQXXLE/s640/Pocket+sewn+to+Facing.jpg" width="402" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coin Pocket Twin Needle Stitched to the Right Pocket Piece</td></tr>
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Now, we want to set our machine up to do whichever form of stretch stitch that we have chosen to use. In my case I am using the lightning bolt zig zag with a 3.0 stitch length. You should also remove your twin needle from your machine, and insert your Universal 80/12 needle, or whatever needle is appropriate for your chosen fabric. Refer back to the <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-yoke-style-arc-misty-pull-on.html">Sewing the Yoke</a> post if you need help remembering which needle to use with your fabric.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfEtd0hMX3qb-lI2I3hFpe0yVqN-IOZMHDDurdsPvboSQ82fAZHA7lh2ZvW-4eCj0BSbjYoAWqRwlQKN8cFLF-VOzB_gnb-Kw6Vb1WkXX-PKzWiEcOp6RA0pGI0VOWxKzksvosNFGw_4/s1600/Zig+Zag+Set.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfEtd0hMX3qb-lI2I3hFpe0yVqN-IOZMHDDurdsPvboSQ82fAZHA7lh2ZvW-4eCj0BSbjYoAWqRwlQKN8cFLF-VOzB_gnb-Kw6Vb1WkXX-PKzWiEcOp6RA0pGI0VOWxKzksvosNFGw_4/s640/Zig+Zag+Set.jpg" width="430" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lightning Bolt Stretch Stitch at 3.0 Stitch Length</td></tr>
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Now it is time to stitch across the base of the coin pocket to close the pocket bottom. I once again have lined the fabric up at the 1/4 inch marking on my presser foot. You want to start your stitches about 1/2 inch from the Coin Pocket on the Right Pocket Piece. Stitch and reverse to anchor your stitches. Now stitch all the was across the base of the coin pocket and about a 1/2 inch beyond, remembering to reverse your stitches at the end of the seam as well. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlswiX7NxQtlToA921bWLGnogHv8feFxtpb8U5wnCUJWvR0sueKCmSbYFEZ_U7yGzpvSXOtSwao7Xz_J1Y30ujVdfvigUFs0gSg2q3f-CMrtnm2AgIx53J90-LpGPFDXty34ZhHoJl2ZA/s1600/Starting+of+Stiches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlswiX7NxQtlToA921bWLGnogHv8feFxtpb8U5wnCUJWvR0sueKCmSbYFEZ_U7yGzpvSXOtSwao7Xz_J1Y30ujVdfvigUFs0gSg2q3f-CMrtnm2AgIx53J90-LpGPFDXty34ZhHoJl2ZA/s640/Starting+of+Stiches.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitching the Base of the Coin Pocket</td></tr>
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Once you have finished, your pattern piece will look something like this. You can either snip your threads close on the front side, or pull your threads through to the back and snip them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFymTwYSvA9HYcDgMYr8rklhBhCx-nS4Xqf4DUi2HeOormpmqmMQv4xwBru252BZPXYdWvM7ukCBXnHjlPOFWDcwvRkiD784SiIkvDDDxDsW4HbIB8kXRBdly4I_GncQPsUAeGkDbWIhM/s1600/Finished+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFymTwYSvA9HYcDgMYr8rklhBhCx-nS4Xqf4DUi2HeOormpmqmMQv4xwBru252BZPXYdWvM7ukCBXnHjlPOFWDcwvRkiD784SiIkvDDDxDsW4HbIB8kXRBdly4I_GncQPsUAeGkDbWIhM/s640/Finished+Front.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Front of Right Pocket Piece with Coin Pocket Attached</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Back of the Coin Pocket Attached to the Right Front Pocket Piece</td></tr>
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That finishes off this step. How are you all coming along on your sewing? I just can't wait to see what everyone does with their Misty Pull-On Jeans.<br />
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Next Step:<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 14.784px;"><a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/facing-pockets-and-joining-pocket-edges.html">Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges</a></span></span></div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-17145401155576917732015-10-09T11:35:00.004-04:002015-10-09T11:35:47.753-04:00Sewalong Badge- Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Sorry. Friends! I know I should have had this Sewalong Badge up a few days ago. Better late than never, right? </div>
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It has been so long since I have done anything with code, my head was about to explode. You would never guess that I worked for a dot com as an editor back a lifetime ago!<br />
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For those of you new to blogging or who have just never had cause to add an HTML element to your blog here is a great tutorial for adding this element on Blogger/Blogspot:<br />
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http://support.addthis.com/customer/en/portal/articles/1628697-adding-tools-to-blogger<br />
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I only do some guest posting on WordPress, but it looks like this tutorial would be helpful for adding the badge/button in WordPress:<br />
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http://www.wpbeginner.com/beginners-guide/how-to-add-an-image-in-wordpress-sidebar-widget/<br />
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If anyone has questions, please feel free to ask, and I will try to answer.</div>
Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-87411782133031367862015-10-09T08:00:00.000-04:002015-10-12T11:36:03.148-04:00Sewing the Back Pockets - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, the first week of the Misty Jeans Sewalong is drawing to a close. Are you making progress? Have you even started? I know that some of you have already got your jeans ready and are just waiting to see what kind of goodies might be coming in the end. We will get to that soon enough.<br />
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For today, let's talk pockets. Specifically the ones that are going to be on your behind. As Megan pointed out a few posts back you may want to check the size of the pockets in comparison with some of your RTW jeans to see if they are to your liking. You can easily size them up or down with a clear ruler. Or trace the one's you like from your RTW jeans and then add a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Let me know if you need help understanding how to do this, and I will break it down.<br />
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Today's step states, "Press back the seam allowance on the back pockets, stitch across the top with a twin needle stitch, pin the pocket to the back as marked on the pattern, once in place stitch around the pocket with a twin needle stitch."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqTFqO6O-Vmr69bSPj-0BwnqzAL2S6RietYaJh0WjmulXUk3O-5CYSkhLUANBgvF_jVQnk51Z1I_BpJ_CIElL1j0UI8jU2bH1Jnqk6jHrEXVn2YVkpTR_5_mRZ0CHzH4Kki5TKpREqW2E/s1600/IMG_0855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqTFqO6O-Vmr69bSPj-0BwnqzAL2S6RietYaJh0WjmulXUk3O-5CYSkhLUANBgvF_jVQnk51Z1I_BpJ_CIElL1j0UI8jU2bH1Jnqk6jHrEXVn2YVkpTR_5_mRZ0CHzH4Kki5TKpREqW2E/s640/IMG_0855.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back Pocket with Top Edge Pressed Down</td></tr>
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First thing you need to do is press the top of the seam allowance down for the pocket. Remember only the Silk setting on your iron, and use your clapper, if you have one, to get a crisp fold. Hold off on pressing the other sides of the pocket.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5gBcRlebQjL4dS8Y6bNNcQTStC3zvZoGH240wwFQyNLpfrHGWNEx0LEZeykgyveM6fCl5329y6us_NZiBfo9QGsbbJqYHXV97nv29A4FK4fdp1ZvWRPVoDCymEepfEvNpiXLzW1UDRw/s1600/IMG_0856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5gBcRlebQjL4dS8Y6bNNcQTStC3zvZoGH240wwFQyNLpfrHGWNEx0LEZeykgyveM6fCl5329y6us_NZiBfo9QGsbbJqYHXV97nv29A4FK4fdp1ZvWRPVoDCymEepfEvNpiXLzW1UDRw/s640/IMG_0856.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twin Needle Stitching the Top Edge of the Back Pocket</td></tr>
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Now, your twin needle should still be threaded and ready to go from our last post. Go ahead and sew across the top of the pocket with the twin needle to get a nice clean finish to the top of your pocket.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDoXibcXTxEEDAXOsC6ePQOIVW1fnHrce7xGAhK2WRJpLjcXgOuiA66GoJUEGgR1RbpmOXN47OGFoDcI4ATWK3qbY8VtZJIDzhTYlscjv3dF0vFvLqpOfdoRYzYVL08VWyGBNT3u1_eQ/s1600/IMG_0858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDoXibcXTxEEDAXOsC6ePQOIVW1fnHrce7xGAhK2WRJpLjcXgOuiA66GoJUEGgR1RbpmOXN47OGFoDcI4ATWK3qbY8VtZJIDzhTYlscjv3dF0vFvLqpOfdoRYzYVL08VWyGBNT3u1_eQ/s640/IMG_0858.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinning Back the Pressed Seam Allowances on the Pockets</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibj1YAzxAclNoujuFpI4lSugAEqpVPVjVx5eD9_AerTcFb3TJmeRQXBSsjatrxW8Rf9D-JGRMoGRrOLKpfgoTd1TjI8aQHA1An8QWhzfTAfKUf1sXFv2AK_JI9uIW63aolAalRn4ysDQM/s1600/IMG_0859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibj1YAzxAclNoujuFpI4lSugAEqpVPVjVx5eD9_AerTcFb3TJmeRQXBSsjatrxW8Rf9D-JGRMoGRrOLKpfgoTd1TjI8aQHA1An8QWhzfTAfKUf1sXFv2AK_JI9uIW63aolAalRn4ysDQM/s640/IMG_0859.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Better View of the Twin Needle Stitching at the Top of the Pockets</td></tr>
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Now let's go ahead and press back the rest of the seam allowances. I pressed the two bottom allowances first before pressing the sides in. I feel like this gives a more neat appearance. If you have a bulky denim, you may want to trim your seam allowances at the corners, just don't trim them too aggressively.<br />
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Now, this is the point that the way I do this differs from how it is laid out in Style Arc's directions. When sewing pants/jeans I will finish them, put them on and then decide where to place the back pockets. I have even learned to do this with welt pockets or dummy welts, because there have been some real placement issues. For the sake of this sewalong, I am going to follow Style Arc's instructions, but then explain my method at the end. Mmmm kay?<br />
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I told you not to mark your pocket placement back in the beginning, but now I am telling you, lay your pattern on top of your pattern piece and mark those pockets (or wait for my other method). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHNi6MIeM64PmLFkwSG-NfC6uLPSt_DGM1glje5SIYpFdOP1QGJcH865ZcPA983DRuvvX6g7Lk9U0XSh9ytZbRrEWH-ePOb1KY4_S77edSPLsUEUDv9UubQAuzraVVshwW8EetbK_U30/s1600/IMG_0860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHNi6MIeM64PmLFkwSG-NfC6uLPSt_DGM1glje5SIYpFdOP1QGJcH865ZcPA983DRuvvX6g7Lk9U0XSh9ytZbRrEWH-ePOb1KY4_S77edSPLsUEUDv9UubQAuzraVVshwW8EetbK_U30/s640/IMG_0860.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pocket Placement Marked with Chalk</td></tr>
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I pin the seam allowance under at all the corners, and then go ahead and pin the pocket to the pants at the two upper corners and at the center bottom of the pocket.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPW_CQFw8rN7v8Ejv9w5rYqLEMw93J16OLXDKHwvU42tr95ITk1lZ3VaZP8DApbvMsbU4TwRw6iHnhQhodbbCGUWxyOecP333uPVjF4CEdRuRHcTh1NorXo4xzBWkvk4zuIM-phg71A_s/s1600/IMG_0862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPW_CQFw8rN7v8Ejv9w5rYqLEMw93J16OLXDKHwvU42tr95ITk1lZ3VaZP8DApbvMsbU4TwRw6iHnhQhodbbCGUWxyOecP333uPVjF4CEdRuRHcTh1NorXo4xzBWkvk4zuIM-phg71A_s/s640/IMG_0862.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pockets Pinned in Place</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9YywbHhkdRLw9z3L1NAraapfQS4SLmuWlYbfvwi59ZGD3BSR-YuB7EM92tuwroRsdo8l3tFWfjKdQ_36lI2yAuJ4ozBzOOEXUuZCkJHtZOhMx_dRGSYPPoaIU4ZnrDeoeDnmuR856XOI/s1600/IMG_0866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9YywbHhkdRLw9z3L1NAraapfQS4SLmuWlYbfvwi59ZGD3BSR-YuB7EM92tuwroRsdo8l3tFWfjKdQ_36lI2yAuJ4ozBzOOEXUuZCkJHtZOhMx_dRGSYPPoaIU4ZnrDeoeDnmuR856XOI/s640/IMG_0866.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back Pockets Pinned in Three Anchoring Points</td></tr>
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The reason that Style Arc has you sew the pockets on at this point in construction is because you are carrying on with your twin needle eliminating the need to switch back and forth so much, and pockets are easier to sew in to your garment when your garment is still in the flat. Do you all know what in the flat means? In the flat is before you start sewing all the seams together that take your garment from 2 dimensional (flat) to 3 dimensional (having complex curves so as to envelop our curvy bodies). Prime examples of seams that make garments 3 dimensional are inseams, outer/side seams, and crotch curves. In shirts your 3 dimensional seams would be darts, sleeves...I hope that you get the idea.<br />
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Twin needle sewing of pockets can be a little tricky. Most of us are used to pivoting our garment around the needle when the sewing takes a turn, but you can not leave a twin needle down and pivot since there are two needles there instead of one.<br />
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So you can either sew your twin needle edges as individual sides, or you can carefully lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric without the benefit of the needle being down in the fabric to hold your pivot point.<br />
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To sew them as individual sides, you will sew each edge as an individual seam, reversing your stitches at the beginning and end to anchor your thread.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2RmZPsFTl-vz9Wcd2GXxnRIIfQWQUwcPnsmlGXJ319MXgxDEtTu0Y85ptrNd72AtFwz6NvS9vF_w7We0_YhhgRSwBozLZP07SzCVg2TYkgatgKG8AJf4H8RbprN7JQMGBx5dKqm5SoM/s1600/One+Side+Sewn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2RmZPsFTl-vz9Wcd2GXxnRIIfQWQUwcPnsmlGXJ319MXgxDEtTu0Y85ptrNd72AtFwz6NvS9vF_w7We0_YhhgRSwBozLZP07SzCVg2TYkgatgKG8AJf4H8RbprN7JQMGBx5dKqm5SoM/s640/One+Side+Sewn.jpg" width="460" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Seam Sewn</td></tr>
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Here we have the first line of stitching finished. Remember to reverse stitch at the beginning and end to anchor your stitches. It is fine to reverse stitch when you are using a twin needle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocs3GW53JOK5Lo-7W4A-YRPmg7GBt7PQnVzMkR2O9nv4cY8GEowmUsKf3Aw1uhGglNhLGPyYQgzEkyUMjmdPZ3PrOVSRXePrR7g28uWh9tUxdOKKaPy8XR1-SaiDElucuc1moNCKzaPY/s1600/Lining+up+second+line+of+sewing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocs3GW53JOK5Lo-7W4A-YRPmg7GBt7PQnVzMkR2O9nv4cY8GEowmUsKf3Aw1uhGglNhLGPyYQgzEkyUMjmdPZ3PrOVSRXePrR7g28uWh9tUxdOKKaPy8XR1-SaiDElucuc1moNCKzaPY/s640/Lining+up+second+line+of+sewing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aligning Needle to Start Second Seam</td></tr>
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Line the right twin needle up with the right line of stitches. You will have overlap on the left side stitches, which is what you want.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2PgOuwAxvnlh-9HdIRygWEyWoyC4ShAUFhmeOHA6ce_wawl9X_JdwMvjeIYmm1ntoMDYCfP60dupn7wuhlDCfw47hZv0kpEIYiapdKjUhMCms_PSE2yfWwxkTaWRuNhvDDQqpKgYdaA/s1600/Second+Line+Sewn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2PgOuwAxvnlh-9HdIRygWEyWoyC4ShAUFhmeOHA6ce_wawl9X_JdwMvjeIYmm1ntoMDYCfP60dupn7wuhlDCfw47hZv0kpEIYiapdKjUhMCms_PSE2yfWwxkTaWRuNhvDDQqpKgYdaA/s640/Second+Line+Sewn.jpg" width="460" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second Seam Finished</td></tr>
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This is what the first two finished seams look like. You want to continue sewing these individual seams all the way around the pocket (remember not to sew the top of the pocket shut).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsuzzxlSEMKu8Q7dSCSgcJRZLomLHinEkI3Ro4hNFTRiwByVynyhyphenhyphenaCxsc_k5uSHfwXQ4yJQjNHg7Y81ukWZ_YsedBmcz_Kb3inSWOkjCZSBJQMEqURfcF87iRWNlbAwroA77Eel5P80/s1600/Finished+Pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsuzzxlSEMKu8Q7dSCSgcJRZLomLHinEkI3Ro4hNFTRiwByVynyhyphenhyphenaCxsc_k5uSHfwXQ4yJQjNHg7Y81ukWZ_YsedBmcz_Kb3inSWOkjCZSBJQMEqURfcF87iRWNlbAwroA77Eel5P80/s640/Finished+Pocket.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Pocket</td></tr>
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This is how your finished pocket will appear. You can see where the inside row of stitching overlapped while the outside row lined up and connected to the previous row of stitches.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGj-mZT3cJE_CEBZFFKVDhw0S8dvj5Ql1rQbTJok06ETgzPVHIfoPktAnkDNDoXVbX0TaHnPPlK7WmhnKTkZ0OMXkqtIFgepYKXiI3KktmTHL2CLobpKpwJ2yhiGhc0u_rxROW9YdkHpw/s1600/Comparison+of+the+two+Methods.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGj-mZT3cJE_CEBZFFKVDhw0S8dvj5Ql1rQbTJok06ETgzPVHIfoPktAnkDNDoXVbX0TaHnPPlK7WmhnKTkZ0OMXkqtIFgepYKXiI3KktmTHL2CLobpKpwJ2yhiGhc0u_rxROW9YdkHpw/s640/Comparison+of+the+two+Methods.jpg" width="440" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of Both Seam Methods - The outside set of Stitches is Pivoted and The Inside set of Stitches is Individual Seams</td></tr>
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To sew the pockets with the pivoting method, you simply sew down one side to the lower edge (still anchoring at the beginning with a back and forth stitch), lift your presser foot and carefully turn your fabric so that the right line of stitching stays in line with the right needle, but your presser foot is lined up to sew in the direction of the next seam line. Continue doing this as you work your way around the pocket until all the edges (except for the top) are sewn.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwxF0awuf8uxEaigsH9wi686lc7I3Uwl-UQaqClXuh2qhIjuQvaVh7gRsoLLo-NawhzXHwt1BWwOAz-_ZX2VvWC_Ncxg9h4Mo3ZqHB8AIqGEUdpxeTr6FCmKWP_dRLi2gMFa7AYvqoGeY/s1600/IMG_0863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwxF0awuf8uxEaigsH9wi686lc7I3Uwl-UQaqClXuh2qhIjuQvaVh7gRsoLLo-NawhzXHwt1BWwOAz-_ZX2VvWC_Ncxg9h4Mo3ZqHB8AIqGEUdpxeTr6FCmKWP_dRLi2gMFa7AYvqoGeY/s640/IMG_0863.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting to Stitch at the Top of the Back Pocket</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8BaOZt13jOnRP05VcssRLunFA8aN0wG-bop0gFVZLjewWbRWblD3eAfZxtaapcMB8umtehyphenhyphenCzX7OZPfPX21-q_V3pj4v8Q8AN0HCVJIV1OzEyz5q1ntG-n1Z_j2EU5x4m1JpfTwxg1A/s1600/IMG_0864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8BaOZt13jOnRP05VcssRLunFA8aN0wG-bop0gFVZLjewWbRWblD3eAfZxtaapcMB8umtehyphenhyphenCzX7OZPfPX21-q_V3pj4v8Q8AN0HCVJIV1OzEyz5q1ntG-n1Z_j2EU5x4m1JpfTwxg1A/s640/IMG_0864.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing Down to the Point at Which the Fabric will need to Pivot</td></tr>
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Serger Sewists - You can do all this work on your serger if you have a coverstitch function. I highly recommend putting your pockets on at this stage if you intend to use the coverstitch, because it will be monumentally harder to do once the inseam and side seams or outer seams are sewn.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WhqBzOJcUVk3euu9HbcdBrDjsS_ZTI9xKRKhSog3Kzt1Xn9r-ZfPY4HJBK13InoVZbEUS8nt5VlRYDwDM4vGYDiCy5ATH2KvzbRMl_ItfQ_YcMWj6Y4iMumOxD5s73e5t1Gk6yl3lBc/s1600/IMG_0867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WhqBzOJcUVk3euu9HbcdBrDjsS_ZTI9xKRKhSog3Kzt1Xn9r-ZfPY4HJBK13InoVZbEUS8nt5VlRYDwDM4vGYDiCy5ATH2KvzbRMl_ItfQ_YcMWj6Y4iMumOxD5s73e5t1Gk6yl3lBc/s640/IMG_0867.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both Back Pieces with Back Pockets and Yokes Attached</td></tr>
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We are all finished with this step. Yay! Our pants are starting to look like something that might actually be pants. Albeit wavy ripply pants. On October 23rd - Adding the Elastic Waistband and Finishing Touches, I will give a tutorial of how to set your back pockets once you have mostly finished the garment for those of you who would like to wait and place them where you personally would like them to be.<br />
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If any of you are sewing along and are at this step, please let me know how it is going and don't hesitate to mention any tips that you have or ask any questions. Also, did you notice that my fabric has a word written all over it? It wasn't until I was reviewing these pictures that I caught that.<br />
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Next step: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/adding-coin-pocket-style-arc-misty-pull.html">Sewing the Coin Pocket</a><br />
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Side Note: I need to take my DSLR camera to be cleaned so I apologize for the mix of camera and phone pics. My sensor is having a hard time focusing in certain lighting situations right now.<br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-25262259985858173452015-10-07T14:42:00.000-04:002015-10-09T09:38:24.244-04:00Sewing the Yoke - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friends, here is our next step in the Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong.<br />
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Step one in the pattern states, "With right sides together sew the back yoke to the top of the back, follow the notches, press the seams upward and twin needle the yoke edge."</div>
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I am going to make no assumptions about your sewing prowess. So let's start with the idea of putting the right sides together. Hopefully, you went with a denim that is not as crazy as mine. The right side of your denim is the side that you would be able to see when you are wearing the denim. Are you following me?</div>
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With right sides of the back pattern piece and the yoke piece together, make sure that your double notch lines up.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghrU19LqCU-TkKjWUMuy7cX6feHyKJQocH0fCNm_YLsW5t8Fk9MRmF9FIz64G7LmH4SLsyPeEudW671rf9R-q1khgsx1OhyphenhyphencEXgB_SfY_9NJ921grXWVwdKrEjyhO1irmWruSY1M8BSQ4/s1600/IMG_0815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghrU19LqCU-TkKjWUMuy7cX6feHyKJQocH0fCNm_YLsW5t8Fk9MRmF9FIz64G7LmH4SLsyPeEudW671rf9R-q1khgsx1OhyphenhyphencEXgB_SfY_9NJ921grXWVwdKrEjyhO1irmWruSY1M8BSQ4/s640/IMG_0815.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Putting Double Notches Together - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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I pinned the fabric at the first notch. Then checked the edges of the fabric to be sure the seams lined up correctly.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwdruIe5DBd3c9Cgqh3DOiJ3jx88sJmWbJLQcWtrVfHo2Bflar2j5CvgDeD8Nx1Y7v-2vwvQPYaOWm25mn5dWPPs_BMpGgd6Arl39OcjI_aGI-iDbudLIV65sq0HUSrx1KbKZrOVdepw/s1600/IMG_0833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwdruIe5DBd3c9Cgqh3DOiJ3jx88sJmWbJLQcWtrVfHo2Bflar2j5CvgDeD8Nx1Y7v-2vwvQPYaOWm25mn5dWPPs_BMpGgd6Arl39OcjI_aGI-iDbudLIV65sq0HUSrx1KbKZrOVdepw/s640/IMG_0833.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notched Seam Allowance - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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This notched edge (above) is where I intend to start sewing. I aligned the notches at this edge and pinned my pieces together. I will be honest in that I don't normally pin seams, but I wanted to take that step, because I feel that it is important to many beginners. Did you figure out that Style Arc gives you a notch to show what your seam allowances are? Yep, that little notch is 3/8 of an inch in, and let's you know this is where you should start your sewing.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Ju2G8-8e2xqCjtT7aLYHyNsIrsL5JHjpJjGslB_34gdnV1TyxyCNEentOkvrQKwCwrUKK3jIoNWpwg4iP38IloAmN-dJjqTeYryLF6kGyQTv3JTFIh-MrPWOe3kPzUJVyTGThoneP8/s1600/Seam+Notch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Ju2G8-8e2xqCjtT7aLYHyNsIrsL5JHjpJjGslB_34gdnV1TyxyCNEentOkvrQKwCwrUKK3jIoNWpwg4iP38IloAmN-dJjqTeYryLF6kGyQTv3JTFIh-MrPWOe3kPzUJVyTGThoneP8/s640/Seam+Notch.jpg" width="518" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seam Notch Allignment - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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On what will be the far end of your seam (the center back edge), there is a notch in the yoke, and no notch in the back pattern piece. At this end of the seam, it is important that your fabric line up at the seam, so you will have an extra little triangle of fabric sticking out above the notch. That is proper alignment. You didn't do anything wrong. If that little triangle annoys you, just snip it off after you have sewed your seam.</div>
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Now that you have gotten your pattern pieces ready to sew together, it is time to get your sewing machine set to sew this seam.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr88M4iW7oWzOTh4JROyz_ztj1ZnHKoD8-g_sDXtu-TsIZzVGBJnU8FHBu9MHj1muCiZgB90UJJV5fjGAH_5mHhRpy2_0fhgzG370jqX2YqgnLrWhN1tQzVO62RNXT0Efqr1pyrfyXaM/s1600/IMG_0818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr88M4iW7oWzOTh4JROyz_ztj1ZnHKoD8-g_sDXtu-TsIZzVGBJnU8FHBu9MHj1muCiZgB90UJJV5fjGAH_5mHhRpy2_0fhgzG370jqX2YqgnLrWhN1tQzVO62RNXT0Efqr1pyrfyXaM/s640/IMG_0818.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lightning Bolt Stitch - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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I am using the #4 lightning bolt stitch on my machine, though the #5 zig zag would also be perfectly acceptable here. The point is you want to pick the stretch stitch that you prefer. Some people will also sew this with a straight stitch, but to do that you have to stretch your fabric to its max stretch as you go, and I don't suggest that method for beginners. <br />
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Serger Sewists - If you are using your serger, this would be one of the seams that you want to serge. Just make sure you use the 3/8 inch seam allowance instead of the normal 5/8 you get with most patterns.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi8neVPw_bNjVsiiMuyi6mMGyHPjJS33aofXawTFI1hKbUDR2GMMG8-qwp-OoByI9eYwi_10Sh3SbvzIklAVF0oRUAhxTVVCODQtYjhf8oqT0wiYFYL8dLJx7y7_Tpz1VuKotAWsT61U/s1600/IMG_0819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi8neVPw_bNjVsiiMuyi6mMGyHPjJS33aofXawTFI1hKbUDR2GMMG8-qwp-OoByI9eYwi_10Sh3SbvzIklAVF0oRUAhxTVVCODQtYjhf8oqT0wiYFYL8dLJx7y7_Tpz1VuKotAWsT61U/s640/IMG_0819.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schmetz Universal Needle - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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Let's get a proper needle in our machines now. I chose the Schmetz Universal 80/12 needle for this project. Though this is a stretchy material, at it's heart it is woven. So, I went with the universal needle. As for size, my denim isn't thick or heavy and I am using normal everyday thread, which is why I chose the 80/12 size. If your denim is heavier (more denim like) you may want to use the Jeans Needle in the 90/14 size. If you are using a knit jegging material, go for the Stretch Needle in the 90/14 size. Let me know if you have any questions.</div>
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Now it is time to thread our machines (I hope we all already know how to do that), and get started.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9bNPmLw8dd9hZoBDHQ_wE_3DD-aWww27YHUALtmhLXK3X2mCNpZuESKDzb2S26N_STCJyME8p4fyavW9gPD-ai-cptY88hQfOOkDPfhwT6Ap97AvW8OYZ41rQcHf0BXTc1yGkt1DOTc/s1600/IMG_20151007_102718241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9bNPmLw8dd9hZoBDHQ_wE_3DD-aWww27YHUALtmhLXK3X2mCNpZuESKDzb2S26N_STCJyME8p4fyavW9gPD-ai-cptY88hQfOOkDPfhwT6Ap97AvW8OYZ41rQcHf0BXTc1yGkt1DOTc/s640/IMG_20151007_102718241.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Throat Plate 3/8 Seam Allowance - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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I have aligned my fabric so that the seam allowance notches are centered with my needle, and my fabric lines up at the 3/8 inch marking on my machine's throat plate. I did tack back and forth to anchor the stitch. Just be careful if you decide to do this, because your machine may want to eat the fabric. Ask me how I know! Now, just sew your seam all the way to the center back edge.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIQTnodKzceTQTVDNlOOd2QFl95ALudVpN3v6sHtfODnYBr67WQ6-WCv1VpLaHC-U5YJsPrT5M2r0CGhwBsnyXwl4zf593N-z4Bp6oixr-ACsPn-AxjzOqpSBgLe7ObRiC3YAhQXCjgU/s1600/IMG_0836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIQTnodKzceTQTVDNlOOd2QFl95ALudVpN3v6sHtfODnYBr67WQ6-WCv1VpLaHC-U5YJsPrT5M2r0CGhwBsnyXwl4zf593N-z4Bp6oixr-ACsPn-AxjzOqpSBgLe7ObRiC3YAhQXCjgU/s640/IMG_0836.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puffy Seam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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Once your seam is finished your piece(s) will look something like this from the right side. Can you see that there might just be a pair of pants coming together yet? This seam is going to need to be flattened for proper finishing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOHApftIi7Bnz4HBm_ljChrdUw0kKFqI-kNBUSFxvRSJk3MBcjjPYECFyv2qRN2kWL5aWjwXk9bn-QZ7WF5k_nbtHjrmBca8VxWC0x8JxIksB97JDj3n69w4GSjbvuGFo4e9Lguy6x394/s1600/IMG_20151007_104522046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOHApftIi7Bnz4HBm_ljChrdUw0kKFqI-kNBUSFxvRSJk3MBcjjPYECFyv2qRN2kWL5aWjwXk9bn-QZ7WF5k_nbtHjrmBca8VxWC0x8JxIksB97JDj3n69w4GSjbvuGFo4e9Lguy6x394/s640/IMG_20151007_104522046.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iron Setting - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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Get out whatever trusty iron you use, and set it for the Silk setting. I want it a little warmer than synthetic, but I don't want to melt or compromise the lycra in my fabric, so nothing warmer than silk just to be on the safe side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanBLD_wDGACE1KWO-RKdkYFxrvCENAAz8vh6QnYWtjY2ZQ67HetbUBFeiAHr4lT5MbnDK8KxUUy7RscKm9qu-VErfluJ5Yv4Dmnywz8tT06hlIJpYpa7B398L_B6kBKtnsydDEwo3jSE/s1600/IMG_0838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanBLD_wDGACE1KWO-RKdkYFxrvCENAAz8vh6QnYWtjY2ZQ67HetbUBFeiAHr4lT5MbnDK8KxUUy7RscKm9qu-VErfluJ5Yv4Dmnywz8tT06hlIJpYpa7B398L_B6kBKtnsydDEwo3jSE/s640/IMG_0838.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I will be ironing from the wrong side (inside) of the pants. This is the, "Press the seams upward," part of the instructions. So you are taking your seam allowance and folding it upward towards the top of the yoke piece. At this point you want to press your iron on to your fabric for 5 seconds. No steam needed. As you move across the seam with your iron make sure that the seam is being pulled taught so as to lay flat. In other words pull at the yoke piece with one hand, and the back piece with the other so that your stitches are flat against the ironing board and no extra fabric is beneath the seam line. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHduYXICHTcLtFxzaGClk_045DLGFDcSgFtAbVu8fYvvL8nVxT2Bwi6W9IGvlhQMhsm-NoesHJ5WOrTLAU3HqjgE2ggl1xeIdDrSGqDT2TiDbPkl6z62Yy0r7WLv6ttf4qT2ngh9SxQmY/s1600/IMG_0840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHduYXICHTcLtFxzaGClk_045DLGFDcSgFtAbVu8fYvvL8nVxT2Bwi6W9IGvlhQMhsm-NoesHJ5WOrTLAU3HqjgE2ggl1xeIdDrSGqDT2TiDbPkl6z62Yy0r7WLv6ttf4qT2ngh9SxQmY/s640/IMG_0840.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used my clapper after every pressing. The clapper will help to quickly draw the heat out of the fabric and keep your seam crisp.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQckJfaU4DIchoq4CXf8x3TMIQBF1MdgwnB-nI6Ytc6cNRoV9dCoFPqC5ttXBDcgxirRs1roQ5pXuFnEbHsyanoJ_vFaXkyJMZ2jNCA6YqqGJP5k9MtXhyBZ9Z7GnpS1EXilBY5diiXw/s1600/IMG_0843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQckJfaU4DIchoq4CXf8x3TMIQBF1MdgwnB-nI6Ytc6cNRoV9dCoFPqC5ttXBDcgxirRs1roQ5pXuFnEbHsyanoJ_vFaXkyJMZ2jNCA6YqqGJP5k9MtXhyBZ9Z7GnpS1EXilBY5diiXw/s640/IMG_0843.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressed Yoke Seam - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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After pressing your seam will appear flat like this. Note how the pattern of my fabric is aligned across the seam because of how I lined the notches up when I was laying out the fabric. This was discussed in the <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/cutting-out-pattern-style-arc-misty.html">Cutting Out the Pattern</a> post. </div>
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The final step in this phase is to twin needle the yoke edge. Here are some things you need to know about how this step went.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv4emguh_ACNRFoPmuHdrDyufPnbIdCp527sVMjcNJS8SpT1e5CshGSpqMA87BmNB6QVs9aHJiMJTJ5e1Wer7rJiMOktRJ3RzrhnIZFikTWGgu3bVN68UwTgUHNizCALiN-yFy6drEsqU/s1600/IMG_0846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv4emguh_ACNRFoPmuHdrDyufPnbIdCp527sVMjcNJS8SpT1e5CshGSpqMA87BmNB6QVs9aHJiMJTJ5e1Wer7rJiMOktRJ3RzrhnIZFikTWGgu3bVN68UwTgUHNizCALiN-yFy6drEsqU/s640/IMG_0846.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schmetz Universal Wide Twin Needle - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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I used a Schmetz Universal Wide Twin Needle. You can decide how wide you want your twin seam to be, but to me this looked the most like RTW jeans.</div>
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I threaded my twin needle according to the directions for my machine. All machines are different, but I did do a tutorial a while back on twin needle sewing. You can read that tutorial <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/03/sewing-knits-with-twin-needlethe.html">here</a>. It might help.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioiwigM3ShhfaWOo2Xd27Mira6ac2rU25-DC7AyQccxb9kmKrDNIlgPKxQeFj4OFtdrPvYwCPG2l7upAxXGtmywEOkUP9gBsFVcjWWWVBZxgQ8fZXNNAt2T4ACqv3QYoO5R8UahmbC9cQ/s1600/IMG_20151007_105756479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioiwigM3ShhfaWOo2Xd27Mira6ac2rU25-DC7AyQccxb9kmKrDNIlgPKxQeFj4OFtdrPvYwCPG2l7upAxXGtmywEOkUP9gBsFVcjWWWVBZxgQ8fZXNNAt2T4ACqv3QYoO5R8UahmbC9cQ/s640/IMG_20151007_105756479.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twin Needle Alignment - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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I am not trying to break my arm patting myself on the back here, but look at that pattern line up across the seams! I lined the seam up with the 1/4 inch line on the left side of my universal sewing foot. By following that line, my stitches will stay straight, and my folded under seam allowance will stay under the needles. Make sure to check that your seam allowance is still folded in the proper direction.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWl-KIySAo_6b2g_ay5xSQoIb-_MRuG-2cQGb0TTbAt1MZeUP4rGXD6vIVtWbSQP5fW7mA6tEorzAtRfe06hdwOfDY5Vur5H55H-IS59fw8e08P-LDftCn0dHd44S27M34_JOuB8eZfc/s1600/Stitch+Length+Twin+Needle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWl-KIySAo_6b2g_ay5xSQoIb-_MRuG-2cQGb0TTbAt1MZeUP4rGXD6vIVtWbSQP5fW7mA6tEorzAtRfe06hdwOfDY5Vur5H55H-IS59fw8e08P-LDftCn0dHd44S27M34_JOuB8eZfc/s640/Stitch+Length+Twin+Needle.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch Length/Twin Needle Function - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans </td></tr>
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I decided on a 3.5 for my stitch length and set my machine for twin needle stitching. I like this length for top-stitching on jeans. Now, just sew the length of the seam with your twin needle. <br />
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Serger Sewists - If your machine has a coverstitch capability, you will want to use that function here, instead of a twin needle in your straight stitch machine.<br />
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Once you have sewn both of your pattern sections (left back/yoke and right back/yoke) you are finished with this step, and should have something that looks somewhat like this.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYKYR21WYkvmtWu7hoxRbNwbdYhjEXtvA-s5SGt3JHxQQmaCtYrtmIQ2t-PSkpaWxKeuZcdZxFr7XgYDB1WlZpCAsHB0m-1SbR11Wdx70v6_XLgO6amhfHiLI6WBt-fH0eYC4jCufXH0/s1600/IMG_0854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYYKYR21WYkvmtWu7hoxRbNwbdYhjEXtvA-s5SGt3JHxQQmaCtYrtmIQ2t-PSkpaWxKeuZcdZxFr7XgYDB1WlZpCAsHB0m-1SbR11Wdx70v6_XLgO6amhfHiLI6WBt-fH0eYC4jCufXH0/s640/IMG_0854.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Back and Yoke Pieces - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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Your pieces may look a little rippled. That is fine and normal. If you give them a little stretch the seams will look flat and wonderful, just as they will look stretched across your backside.<br />
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Friends, tell me am I being too in depth here? I don't want to bore you all to tears, but at the same time, I want even a beginner to be able to understand the process here.<br />
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Next Step: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-back-pockets-style-arc-misty.html">Sewing the Back Pockets</a></div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-37031057004387926862015-10-05T13:01:00.000-04:002015-10-08T20:47:58.573-04:00Cutting Out the Pattern - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans Sewalong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Phew, that title is a mouthful in and of itself! Friends, before going in to the cutting, I have had a TON of questions about the elastic for these pants. For those of us not on the metric system, finding 3 cm or 1 1/3 inch elastic has been a bit of a hassle. I opted to go with 1 inch knit elastic, because it was easy to find in a myriad of colors, and I am ok with losing 1/3 of an inch of width. You could easily use 1 1/4 inch or 1 1/2 inch if you can find them. I picked my elastic up at Joann in the notions section, not the elastic by the yard section.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kHc02s3x0Uom9rK4YVWnt0iwZlhJlXCPDcnWpajJukxKLIQhEOQiAeM715v2jjJg_TdkGPbb1zXPc0a_bCcB9s8efsBJ6zKeJ0nRBiGfk7ZdVmHuX1f8ZGpgO2q1AvDaC9A7OxvwlzQ/s1600/elastic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kHc02s3x0Uom9rK4YVWnt0iwZlhJlXCPDcnWpajJukxKLIQhEOQiAeM715v2jjJg_TdkGPbb1zXPc0a_bCcB9s8efsBJ6zKeJ0nRBiGfk7ZdVmHuX1f8ZGpgO2q1AvDaC9A7OxvwlzQ/s640/elastic.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Misty Pull On Jeans Elastic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I know that a lot of you downloaded the pattern for these jeans. When you order direct from Style Arc they attach a fabric sample and elastic sample. As you can see in the illustration, their elastic sample is indeed 1 1/3 inches. If you want to be most true to the pattern 1 1/4 inch will be your best bet from what is available (at least here in the US.<br />
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Now on to cutting out the pattern. The first thing that you need to do (assuming you have already washed your fabric) is figure out in which direction your fabric has the maximum stretch. For my fabric, the max stretch actually ran selvage to selvage. In other words, if I grabbed the upper and lower selvage edges and pulled, that was the way the fabric stretched the most. Does that make sense?<br />
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Knowing the direction of my max stretch dictated my cutting layout. I folded my fabric so it was just wide enough to accommodate the front pant piece, making sure to keep the grain straight and the fabric as flat as possible without stretching. Fabric with lycra doesn't take well to ironing, so I caution against it if you can manage. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzWkboVKm1RuDFii3cEPjTQnToLMiH51w1u48ku3StRXXS01QQhQoxAkFwuwyoXMngWMeNX9rxtTBdGFqTUHtY-kKlzEhmEZf5YeBL1RWVV6hm36U8FlbHpx26sL6C-n_KYkIoAm4EkQ/s1600/pant+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzWkboVKm1RuDFii3cEPjTQnToLMiH51w1u48ku3StRXXS01QQhQoxAkFwuwyoXMngWMeNX9rxtTBdGFqTUHtY-kKlzEhmEZf5YeBL1RWVV6hm36U8FlbHpx26sL6C-n_KYkIoAm4EkQ/s640/pant+front.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Pattern Piece on Folded Fabric - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IPJkCkGpayFn1ywT02BXwN0yII4RM0DfVgGAmBdO87RTC-zdbizlNshQb_H6LS6LofRkw7Xz6kGNqzo2RcV85zkVucemB1B5Co4Rp1JVdQ_fKjZ2UdyZntjj-Sj1btT_UzbESgVL1jQ/s1600/Front+piece.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IPJkCkGpayFn1ywT02BXwN0yII4RM0DfVgGAmBdO87RTC-zdbizlNshQb_H6LS6LofRkw7Xz6kGNqzo2RcV85zkVucemB1B5Co4Rp1JVdQ_fKjZ2UdyZntjj-Sj1btT_UzbESgVL1jQ/s640/Front+piece.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Pattern Piece Layout - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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As you can see in the pictures above <strike>my dining room is a disaster area</strike> I folded the fabric just wide enough to fit the front pant piece. We don't want to waste the fabric above the pant piece so I will now lay out some of the smaller pieces above the Front Pant Piece of the pattern.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLacrU1CKanvr585HJhsciwEITGuxTgvAQlN69czcrkNByGFCGEC4BcRXmf5hfAczkh7tCaDGVi9jb2JMyopLvuGMUeAKD-noAiXF52VclMwF219vpG_JsJVwlPomDlfwjuB7DpXxHQA/s1600/Grain+Straight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhLacrU1CKanvr585HJhsciwEITGuxTgvAQlN69czcrkNByGFCGEC4BcRXmf5hfAczkh7tCaDGVi9jb2JMyopLvuGMUeAKD-noAiXF52VclMwF219vpG_JsJVwlPomDlfwjuB7DpXxHQA/s640/Grain+Straight.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front Pocket, Pocket Facing, and Back Pocket Pattern Pieces - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Those of you paying close attention may have noticed that the Left Front Pocket Piece was cut incorrectly. I lined the max stretch to the grain. Fortunately, the Left and Right Front Pocket Pieces are the same, so since I cut the Right Pocket Piece on a folded piece of fabric I am able to just use the other Right Pocket as my Left Pocket. Is that confusing? There are two separate pocket pieces in the pattern, because the Left Pocket is where the coin pocket will go, and the Left Pocket Piece has the markings for the Coin Pocket. This just helps to keep you from getting mixed up.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPA7s8a9GxjRO_QVZhXnsS2AULBGKjPOMUcPcxOrQaMhSVKDl_9O0CE0IrhFJTXQO0JDzARFYg1m9H0xwGXEY7Hr1-VraQWnbHJVBHPCIX6hV-UI6lsbIWh9vFmfV0xQP2r7Rru104aTw/s1600/Straight+Grain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPA7s8a9GxjRO_QVZhXnsS2AULBGKjPOMUcPcxOrQaMhSVKDl_9O0CE0IrhFJTXQO0JDzARFYg1m9H0xwGXEY7Hr1-VraQWnbHJVBHPCIX6hV-UI6lsbIWh9vFmfV0xQP2r7Rru104aTw/s640/Straight+Grain.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping the Grain Straight - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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To keep my pieces on grain, I take my yard stick and lay it on the grain line for the Front Pant Piece. Since I have already made sure the Front Pant Piece is lined up on the grain, I can use that line to keep my other pattern pieces on grain as well.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVZuadjh8_cXxNA9rVbimJmtyWawrUY9OBuotEbgrNP5M4PhkOWJaxKQ5Ro5hYEinO386ShfLl4Axza0iPMCQLETJQxLmrKL48C1icpp52-6XpCl9Mo76uIOTuGP_YuNNELRyfPzifPA/s1600/straight+grain+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVZuadjh8_cXxNA9rVbimJmtyWawrUY9OBuotEbgrNP5M4PhkOWJaxKQ5Ro5hYEinO386ShfLl4Axza0iPMCQLETJQxLmrKL48C1icpp52-6XpCl9Mo76uIOTuGP_YuNNELRyfPzifPA/s640/straight+grain+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using the clear ruler to line up Grain - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
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After I have the Pocket Facing and Right Front Pocket Piece on Grain, I can take my clear ruler and use it to insure that my pieces laying to the left and right are also on grain. <br />
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Once these piece are laid out, I put a fresh rotary blade in to my cutter and commenced with cutting these pieces. When you are cutting the the direction of your max stretch, the fabric is likely to bunch. If this happens, just back your rotary cutter up until your fabric lays flat again, and re-start cutting. You can use pressure from your hand that isn't holding the rotary cutter to help keep the fabric from bunching and stretching, just be careful not to cut yourself. The fly edge can be tricky to cut with the rotary cutter. If you aren't terribly experienced, I would suggest pinning and scissor cutting this area to insure that you don't cut in to the seam allowance.<br />
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For the Rear Pant Pattern Piece, I once again folded my fabric so that it would accommodate the pattern piece. Since my fabric has print on it, I opted not to lay the pant pieces so as to minimize fabric yardage. You could do that assuming your fabric is wide enough and you aren't matching print. Your main pattern pieces would look something like this. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUyflAKqCcjYm4ca5Hy7oLTysokr2OnRGIja28ZTnWNNiSrdNUTGs_7g3apxS5aePu1GB2JS8AoAp8WlTTAi6oUn0g3bvG9PpsprFnXdUaah0T86uN8elDYmIMXpsC_EDrdQB8iUPNJE/s1600/pant+layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUyflAKqCcjYm4ca5Hy7oLTysokr2OnRGIja28ZTnWNNiSrdNUTGs_7g3apxS5aePu1GB2JS8AoAp8WlTTAi6oUn0g3bvG9PpsprFnXdUaah0T86uN8elDYmIMXpsC_EDrdQB8iUPNJE/s640/pant+layout.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Minimize Fabric Layout - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Then you could place your smaller pieces around these pieces. Most important thing here is to make sure that your grain lines on the pattern pieces stay parallel to one another, and also in line with the grain of the fabric.<br />
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After placing my Rear Pant Pattern Piece, I moved on to placing my Yoke Pattern Piece and Coin Pocket Pattern Piece.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqay-qFWABb17vnBTCE6jZZZsr63oPrIfaIrd550rzpSm7H5ONWtJ-YtLTk3_NvGK6tPyUn5x2Xpn22gxPUq6X0sqtQ-s-jnJ99J7Sc9ZhfYr_3VXgE37vt_Hrk4q7L9aOh_IpAzPKG0/s1600/Yoke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqay-qFWABb17vnBTCE6jZZZsr63oPrIfaIrd550rzpSm7H5ONWtJ-YtLTk3_NvGK6tPyUn5x2Xpn22gxPUq6X0sqtQ-s-jnJ99J7Sc9ZhfYr_3VXgE37vt_Hrk4q7L9aOh_IpAzPKG0/s640/Yoke.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yoke and Coin Pocket Pieces on Grain - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Again, I made sure that my Pattern Pieces lined up with the grain of the fabric using my yard stick.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7zMNGJbLp4MTyl20dXxfDPa_T9mQWLQH2EIXqUCDsNHZertNHjBJ4k3UdnigMDvj5ZlJPA6NEP_4uZLhhCrDxbHNlygY6uSRa5hr7jD3BT_5GmT-7NfSuJODGI4NfbmaBofgw-XGZmU/s1600/Notches+in+line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7zMNGJbLp4MTyl20dXxfDPa_T9mQWLQH2EIXqUCDsNHZertNHjBJ4k3UdnigMDvj5ZlJPA6NEP_4uZLhhCrDxbHNlygY6uSRa5hr7jD3BT_5GmT-7NfSuJODGI4NfbmaBofgw-XGZmU/s640/Notches+in+line.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yoke Pattern Piece with Notches Lined to Rear Pattern Piece - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Because I am using printed fabric, I also tried to make sure that the notches on my Yoke Pattern Piece lined up with the notches on the Rear Pattern Piece. This will insure that the print will look to be in line. Again, this isn't an important step if your denim doesn't have any print or pattern to it.</div>
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Once these pieces were lined up, I cut them out using my rotary cutter.</div>
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My final step was to notch all my pieces and transfer any markings. I know, that we all hate notching the pieces and marking the fabric, but it is an evil necessity.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQudrtSz3V7F_sJKV-G-4FO_bzNf3WaqHjzJP7-sWLITpizeBrweBVTN_yIsqli7GQia7wcRm1WfMGjqTn6P4F2Oxdz4VzTA9gbCobynO7cmD3FU235bo9U9QNCCnVuEY60NPwVY1yGg/s1600/Cutting+Notch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQudrtSz3V7F_sJKV-G-4FO_bzNf3WaqHjzJP7-sWLITpizeBrweBVTN_yIsqli7GQia7wcRm1WfMGjqTn6P4F2Oxdz4VzTA9gbCobynO7cmD3FU235bo9U9QNCCnVuEY60NPwVY1yGg/s640/Cutting+Notch.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notching Fabric - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgVZmYTIWhUnVML64AMcOwYejYcPWVCgkA_7163ZFdAmTbPGV7oWfAEbw4_2fsd04mCjnRe0Pihf12o9qeGgPpvie9XPpxnQrkeFHd0gnQ9m27E06HfDkMG7r4AFhreHbf9YZly-Gdf3Q/s1600/Cut+Notch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgVZmYTIWhUnVML64AMcOwYejYcPWVCgkA_7163ZFdAmTbPGV7oWfAEbw4_2fsd04mCjnRe0Pihf12o9qeGgPpvie9XPpxnQrkeFHd0gnQ9m27E06HfDkMG7r4AFhreHbf9YZly-Gdf3Q/s640/Cut+Notch.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notched Fabric - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It is a good idea to cut your notches with shears instead of a rotary cutter. Your rotary cutter will quickly get you in trouble here, cutting much deeper in to the seam allowance than desired. </div>
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I like to use chalk to transfer the markings from the pattern pieces to my fabric. This is how I do it, I am sure that other people have different methods.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeISlOQhLpglZTD7PJ_h22jo8KBDQ5D0qAmod4DibCTXU4pwKa1d0UoNGSnDLZ-ahkH0fzsGozjjgFPFTRkS0hbyNea-7Kq4OhhxrLqbnd4Q0BGCUwGWfnUNAe346hYM6n1KIYEHlPcI/s1600/Coin+Pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHeISlOQhLpglZTD7PJ_h22jo8KBDQ5D0qAmod4DibCTXU4pwKa1d0UoNGSnDLZ-ahkH0fzsGozjjgFPFTRkS0hbyNea-7Kq4OhhxrLqbnd4Q0BGCUwGWfnUNAe346hYM6n1KIYEHlPcI/s640/Coin+Pocket.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lining up the Ruler for Marking Fabric - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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First, I line my ruler up with the marking.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6Q-dtb18wzWKz3CwJQchZsietv7sM8TWoZi2YplARcyCJz1wPorHOdXkd-7G0HvkvyjHyqZ1cXeR2wF2qIVGlbM5vt5NNUaVIXXIwNfU2ZYIuRO6T4xCecJV6r_o0X4Tl1Q7C3fOc5g/s1600/Coin+Pocket+Fold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6Q-dtb18wzWKz3CwJQchZsietv7sM8TWoZi2YplARcyCJz1wPorHOdXkd-7G0HvkvyjHyqZ1cXeR2wF2qIVGlbM5vt5NNUaVIXXIwNfU2ZYIuRO6T4xCecJV6r_o0X4Tl1Q7C3fOc5g/s640/Coin+Pocket+Fold.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Folding Pattern Piece for Marking - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Next, I fold the paper back on the marking line and over my ruler.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvShXvoTN4pEKAGxrDl40j0dciPJWcy9XGOY9eTi-dV7h50DyN9oTeofRRa3sueI2Xu6JtTJm0DNkYM0K0TO2hTXoKQ5JeUY3Ac79EGqUpjvo6-KM1Xd5udINiYOijta7HtOpF7N_zkKo/s1600/Marked+Coin+Pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvShXvoTN4pEKAGxrDl40j0dciPJWcy9XGOY9eTi-dV7h50DyN9oTeofRRa3sueI2Xu6JtTJm0DNkYM0K0TO2hTXoKQ5JeUY3Ac79EGqUpjvo6-KM1Xd5udINiYOijta7HtOpF7N_zkKo/s640/Marked+Coin+Pocket.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalk Marked Right Pocket Piece - Style Arc Misty Pull-On Jeans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Last, I mark the line with chalk. I continue this until I have marked all the marking lines on a pattern piece. </div>
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In the case of the Style Arc Misty Jeans, I am not going to mark the pattern placement for the rear pockets. This is my personal choice, and if you want to mark the pattern placement, I have no qualms with that. You could also use tailor's tacks to mark your pocket placements, but I am just too lazy for that!</div>
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Well Friends, I think that is the end to this first post. It's been a doozy! Let me know if you have any questions, and I will try my best to answer them.<br />
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Next Step: <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-yoke-style-arc-misty-pull-on.html">Sewing the Yoke</a></div>
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2360773323117018798.post-5843504544705357232015-10-01T14:29:00.000-04:002015-11-09T15:13:41.264-05:00Misty Jeans Sewalong Schedule<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hello, Friends! Sorry this wasn't up first thing this morning. I have asked an associate of mine to help make the button for this Sewalong, and I have been waiting and waiting to get it. So, I made the executive decision to go ahead and post the Misty Jeans Sewalong schedule without the button, and as soon as I get the button or go ahead and make a less cute one myself, I will post that for you all (I will make it this evening if I still haven't received anything).<br />
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Here is what our schedule looks like:<br />
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October 5- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/cutting-out-pattern-style-arc-misty.html">Cutting out the Pattern</a><br />
October 7- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-yoke-style-arc-misty-pull-on.html">Sewing the Yoke</a><br />
October 9- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-back-pockets-style-arc-misty.html">Sewing the Back Pockets</a><br />
October 12- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/adding-coin-pocket-style-arc-misty-pull.html">Adding the Coin Pocket</a><br />
October 14- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/facing-pockets-and-joining-pocket-edges.html">Facing the Pockets and Joining the Pocket Edges</a><br />
October 16- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-inseam-style-arc-misty-pull-on.html">Sewing the Inseam</a><br />
October 19- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-crotch-curve-and-mock-fly-style.html">Sewing the Crotch Seam and Mock Fly</a><br />
October 21- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/10/sewing-side-seams-and-adjusting-fit.html"> Sewing the Side Seams and Adjusting the Fit</a><br />
October 23- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/11/sewing-waist-and-finishing-touches.html">Adding the Elastic Waist, and the Finishing Touches</a><br />
October 26- <a href="http://pandorasews.blogspot.com/2015/11/the-finished-product-style-arc-misty.html">The Finished Product</a><br />
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I was going to do two separate postings for serging and straight sewing, but have decided to just include both versions in each step. As we work along on this Sewalong, please feel free to post any questions here and I will do my best to help. You can also contact me on <a href="https://instagram.com/pandorasews/">Instagram</a>. If you are sewing along and want to post your progress, you can mark your photos with #mistyjeanssewalong #pandorasews or #stylearcmistyjeans.<br />
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Now, let's get ready to sew some jeans!<br />
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Alicia @ Pandora Sewshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08323686857486398255noreply@blogger.com19