Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Pattern Review Butterick B6224 - The Plus Size Jumpsuit

Hello, Friends!  With the world going crazy for jumpsuits, I decided to jump on the bandwagon in search of a good pattern for my very round body.  I decided to try out Butterick B6224.  Here it is:

Horrible quality cell phone pic of B6224
Friends, let me tell you that this picture shows this jumpsuit in a much more flattering light than it actually is.  Apologies for the crumby cell phone pic.  It was after 9:15 last night when we finally got around to taking this pic, and truly I didn't feel this jumpsuit really deserved the DSLR treatment.

Now, let's talk about the changes that were made and the construction of B6224.  I decided on making the size 30 based on my waist and bust measurements.  The problem with this is that my 64 inch hips were not even close to the 54 inch hips this size calls for.  Because I needed the bodice and pant to be the same at the waist, I decided to use the slash and spread method to get the extra width needed in the hips.

Slash and Spread Method on B6224

I wanted to add two inches to each pattern piece for a total of eight inches added, knowing that I would also sew narrow seam allowances through the hips to make up for the rest of the difference.  I slashed a straight line down from the top of the pocket and a line across from the bottom of the pocket to the first slash, because the pocket was the anchoring part of this pattern piece.  I then used my flexible ruler to add the two inches needed, and moved the bottom hem allowance to it's proper location.

Front Pants Piece of B6224 After Grading to My Measurements
This is what the finished piece looked like after I made my changes for grading to my hip measurements.  I graded the back pant piece in the same method, but forgot to take pictures.  The paper I am using here was from a roll of velum that I got at the art supply store.  I really like this paper because it is wider than Swedish tracing paper.  The back pattern piece didn't quite fit on the Swedish tracing paper so I had to tape two pieces together, and I don't like having to do that.

Construction on B6224 was pretty straight forward.  I decided to actually follow the pattern directions as if I were a newbie sewist.  I only veered from the directions in two ways.


Interfaced Pieces for B6224

First, I trimmed my interfacing smaller than my pattern pieces.  Do you do this?  I remember reading in one of my sewing books that you should always do this, and now I always do.  It helps to cut down on bulk.  The second thing that I changed was the pattern has a tie at the waist band that is just for show.  I left that off, because I don't want to add anything extra in that area.


Pinning the Bodkin Inside the Casing for Stability on B6224

There was a lot of elastic to fish through the waist seam.  I used my trusty bodkin.  There were many times I had to put a pin through the head of the bodkin to hold it in place while I fiddled with the elastic and the casing trying to get the elastic to spread out evenly in the casing.  If I make this pattern again I will probably leave the elastic out and plan to wear the jumpsuit with a belt instead.

There are a few other things I will change if I decide to make this jumpsuit again.  The bodice is quite low cut in the v-neck.  I am not one to be overly modest, but this was a bit deep for me, so next time I would make the v-neck a bit more shallow.

This jumpsuit has a 22" zipper and a hook and eye closure in the back.  The thought of trying to get these undone in a public bathroom with no assistance from my hubby kind of scares me.  Next time I put the zipper in the front and use an exposed zipper!  I think that would be a nice design element.  My husband says just leave off the hook and eye and add a pull to the zipper to keep it in the back.  It isn't a bad idea and something I may have to do if I plan to wear this version outside the house.

Though my bust is a half inch smaller than the pattern calls for in the size 30, this needs a FBA.  You can see the drag lines beside the bust in the picture, but this pattern was almost uncomfortable in the bust.  Feels like it is smashing the bust flat like a sports bra does.  The dart is slightly too low for my bust and needs to move up about 3/4 of an inch.

I would take an inch out of the bodice in length, and add 3 inches to the pants/crotch curve in length.  I am pulling down on the pockets for a reason!  Also, the arm holes on this pattern are a bit tight.  This is not a problem I have ever had before with a pattern.  Generally pattern armholes are gaping open showing off my underthings.  The directions have you turn in a narrow hem for the arms to finish them off.  I think next time I would use bias binding, and this would help with the tightness there.

So Friends, what do you think?  Can a plus size gal wear a jumpsuit?  I personally believe curvy divas can wear whatever they want as long as they can get a good fit.

In case you are wondering the fabric I used is a 100% cotton quilt backing from Windham Fabrics that was in the fashion fabric section at my local Hancock.  At 108 inches wide and $4.95 a yard plus a percent off coupon, I grabbed up some yardage to use for wearable muslins.  It feels and behaves much like chambray but with a little more heft.

10 comments:

  1. This looks pretty comfy and the colour is great on you. Go you will your cool adjustments! Jumpsuits really are everywhere. The shops here are full of them. Between my mahoosive bust and "mum-tum" I am not too sure that they would do me any favours though. I like the one in TGBSB book 3. Xx

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    1. Thanks, MoR! I do love the colors. I understand the mum-tum. That is my biggest drawback to jumpsuits. How did I not know there are TGBSB books? Off to Amazon I go!

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  2. I probably won't be trying jumpsuits because of how complicated they are to get in and out of. I had one the last time they came around that was styled like a long dress with a split for the legs, and it was cute and comfortable, but I had to strip nearly naked to use the ladies room! Plus it had a long zipper down the back, and I had to be a contortionist to unzip myself.

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    1. Oh, I like the split skirt look! Maybe I should try that when I try to make another jumpsuit, but again, I will have to put the zipper in the front, this back zipper thing is for the birds!

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  3. I bought this pattern at the last Butterick sale, so I'm really glad to see it made up! I am determined to give this jumpsuit trend a go, myself. +1 to curvy women wearing anything we please, if we pay attention to fit and proportion.

    I think that it does have potential for you, once you get some of the fitting tweaks ironed out.

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    1. Thanks Michelle for your vote of confidence! Oh, I hope you make it up. I would love to see what you end up doing with it.

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  4. I'm not crazy about jumpsuits coming back again; it just seems like you'd get a lot more use out of two matching separates. And finding a fabric that works equally well for tops and bottoms is often a problem for me (I like having a heavier weight fabric for bottoms). I had a culotte jumpsuit in the early '90s and it worked because it was made of a heavy rayon with a nice drape (so it really looked more like a dress than anything). And it had box pleats at the waist, giving a little more definition there.

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    1. I can understand that STH. I like the idea of a drapey rayon. What I like about jumpsuits is really that you can get the look of a dress without adding an extra layer to prevent chub rub. Box pleats sound like a good idea too! Everyone is giving such great ideas here, I feel a draft it myself binge coming on.

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  5. Thankfully I missed the first jumpsuit bandwagon and will miss this one due to same reason. How do you go pee?
    Maybe we need snap tape?(toddlers pants)

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    1. Honestly Kathy, I gave snap tape consideration or even a separating zipper.

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