A Floral Tunic and Long Shorts - Butterick 5997 and Style Arc Jennifer City Shorts

Hello, Friends!  I have been so busy sewing the past few weeks, yet I haven't been posting many finished projects here.  With all the rain we have had lately, photo shoots have been near impossible.  So, when the sun peaked out this afternoon I knew it was time to photograph a few outfits!  Without further ado:

Please excuse my very squinty eyes, and extremely flat hair!  If ever there was a time that I should have worn sunglasses for a photo shoot, today was the day.  I had good Southern "higher the hair closer to God" hair going on, and the minute I walked in to the humidity it fell.  In less than a minute outside my hair and face were drenched.  Is it possible to have 110% humidity?  I told my husband we weren't breathing the air this afternoon, we were drinking it.

Enough about the weather, we are here to talk sewing.  Inspired my Mary over at Idle Fancy and her original version of Butterick 5997, I purchased this lovely floral voile from Mood Fabrics.  Let's talk about this fabric for a minute.  It is so soft and light and it just feels magnificent against the skin.  I am tempted to go back and buy it in the other color too!

Copenhagen/Baby Blue Floral Printed Cotton Voile  Photo from Moodfabric.com

Raspberry/Copenhagen Floral Printed Cotton Voile  Photo from Moodfabric.com

Here are some of the details for the Butterick 5997 tunic.  I decided to sew the View A tunic, and make some modifications to get a bell sleeve.  I intend to do a full on construction post later in the week, and I will spill all the details there as to how I made this tunic fit (because it certainly doesn't go up to my size), as well as some things I would change next time around.

I love the neckline of this tunic.  I have always been a fan of v-necks and love the Mandarin collar.  I decided to go with the view that has front shoulder yokes with gathers, as opposed to the pintucks that Mary went with.  I love the look of the pintucks, but since my machine has been acting up, I didn't want to need to sew something more precise.

Butterick 5997 Tunic with Gathered Shoulders and Mandarin Collar

I added a six inch side slit for sitting ease through the hips.  I think it is a shame that this pattern was not drafted with this feature, as any longer tunic should offer this option.

Butterick 5997 with added Side Slit

The back of the tunic has a shirttail hem, which is another detail that I love.  It is actually long enough to cover my whole derriere.

Butterick 5997

This tunic is my start to bridging my wardrobe towards Fall.  It is cool enough to wear now when I need sleeves, but will give me some coverage in the Fall that will layer well with a long sweater vest.  Again, I LOVE this fabric!  The tunic needs a few minor tweaks, but I am quite happy with it as well.

On to the shorts.  These are the Style Arc Jennifer City Shorts.  You may remember the first time that I made them here.  The ladies at Style Arc went above and beyond to fix the issues that I has with the original pattern.  I decided that I would trust the ladies' from Style Arc work and dove in to making these shorts in a Cerulean Blue twill that was in the stash, which has no stretch.

StyleArc Jennifer City Shorts Plus Size

As you can see above, the Jennifer City Shorts have a low front waist band.  The slash pockets surprisingly don't bulge.  These shorts may be a little long for some people's taste, but I quite like the length.  They would be easy enough to shorten though.

StyleArc Jennifer City Shorts Plus Size

As you can see, I have a very ample and rounded plus size behind.  I was very surprised that without any adjustments these shorts fit in the behind.  That never happens!  I love that little side slit in these shorts as well.

StyleArc Jennifer City Shorts Plus Size

I find the yoke in the back of the shorts to be very flattering.  There are again just a few minor tweaks the pattern needs to look smooth.  These are issues specific to my body and not the pattern's fault.

So friends, tell me are you already sewing with an eye towards Fall?

Fall Sewing 2015 - Mood Dimensional Knit Fabric

Friends, every year about this time Fall sewing starts to pop in to my mind.  Long before we have passed the dog days of Summer, I start to get the itch to stitch all things Fall!

With that in mind I have been perusing the deep dark hole of fabrics available on the internet.  I came across these two fabrics on Mood this week and I wanted to squee with delight!

Moodfabric.com Oil Blue Dimensional Paisley Knit

Moodfabric.com Heather Black/Charcoal Dimensional Knit

If you have been reading the blog for very long, you may remember this raglan t-shirt I made last Fall.  It was one of my most viewed posts back then.

I used a dimensional (I called it quilted at the time) knit for the body and cuffs of this shirt.  Now, I am seeing that Oil Blue Paisley Knit used with a steel gray sleeve and cuff for this Fall!  You can check out the Heather Black/Charcoal Paisley Knit here.  I can honestly say that this shirt was one of my absolute most warn garments last Fall and Winter.  You may take pause when you see that the cost of this great fabric is $25 a yard.  With the pattern that I used from GreenStyleCreations I only needed a yard of 58 or 60 inch fabric to make the body pieces and cuffs.  When you add in another half yard of a different knit for the sleeves and collar, you could easily make this shirt for $30 with a really nice fabric.  This dimensional knit is 9% virgin wool!  It is going to be warm and cozy, like pajamas you can wear in public.

Friends, I am not associated with Mood Fabrics.  I don't get any special treatment or any kind of kickback for showing you this fabric.  I am only pointing it out, because I am buying it and so many people reached out last year to find out where I got the original fabric for the shirt above that I knew I had to share as soon as I saw it.

So, what would you make with these lovely knits?  I can see sew many possibilities!

Vintage Pattern Giveaway - Anne Adams Wrap Sundress

Friends, it's been far too long since our last giveaway!  

Anne Adams Sundress Size 14 Vintage Pattern Giveaway
from Pandorasews.blogspot.com

Just look at this beautiful pattern!  Not only is it a season appropriate sundress, but it is a back wrap dress, and look at those pockets!  Such great style this dress has!  Am I putting in too many exclamation marks?!?

Anne Adams Sundress Size 14 Vintage Pattern Giveaway
from Pandorasews.blogspot.com

This particular pattern is a vintage size 14.  Here is the sizing chart, but even if it isn't your size, it is so worth taking the time to grade. 

Anne Adams Sundress Size 14 Vintage Pattern Giveaway
from Pandorasews.blogspot.com

All the pieces are here, but they have been cut.  The only modification that was made was the original owner shortened one of the skirt panels, however she held on to the extra piece so a little tape would quickly remedy that.

Vintage patterns are not my area of expertise friends, so if I am incorrect about this being Anne Adams, please feel free to correct me.

Now, to enter just leave a comment at the bottom letting me know why you love sewing vintage.  Please make sure that I will be able to contact you (if there isn't contact info in your profile please leave an email contact.  i.e. jane @ anywho dot com).  I will use a random number generator to pick the winner on July 4th at noon, and post the winner here.  Open to anyone anywhere.  Good luck!

Pattern Review Butterick B6224 - The Plus Size Jumpsuit

Hello, Friends!  With the world going crazy for jumpsuits, I decided to jump on the bandwagon in search of a good pattern for my very round body.  I decided to try out Butterick B6224.  Here it is:

Horrible quality cell phone pic of B6224

Friends, let me tell you that this picture shows this jumpsuit in a much more flattering light than it actually is.  Apologies for the crumby cell phone pic.  It was after 9:15 last night when we finally got around to taking this pic, and truly I didn't feel this jumpsuit really deserved the DSLR treatment.

Now, let's talk about the changes that were made and the construction of B6224.  I decided on making the size 30 based on my waist and bust measurements.  The problem with this is that my 64 inch hips were not even close to the 54 inch hips this size calls for.  Because I needed the bodice and pant to be the same at the waist, I decided to use the slash and spread method to get the extra width needed in the hips.

Slash and Spread Method on B6224

I wanted to add two inches to each pattern piece for a total of eight inches added, knowing that I would also sew narrow seam allowances through the hips to make up for the rest of the difference.  I slashed a straight line down from the top of the pocket and a line across from the bottom of the pocket to the first slash, because the pocket was the anchoring part of this pattern piece.  I then used my flexible ruler to add the two inches needed, and moved the bottom hem allowance to it's proper location.

Front Pants Piece of B6224 After Grading to My Measurements

This is what the finished piece looked like after I made my changes for grading to my hip measurements.  I graded the back pant piece in the same method, but forgot to take pictures.  The paper I am using here was from a roll of velum that I got at the art supply store.  I really like this paper because it is wider than Swedish tracing paper.  The back pattern piece didn't quite fit on the Swedish tracing paper so I had to tape two pieces together, and I don't like having to do that.

Construction on B6224 was pretty straight forward.  I decided to actually follow the pattern directions as if I were a newbie sewist.  I only veered from the directions in two ways.

Interfaced Pieces for B6224

First, I trimmed my interfacing smaller than my pattern pieces.  Do you do this?  I remember reading in one of my sewing books that you should always do this, and now I always do.  It helps to cut down on bulk.  The second thing that I changed was the pattern has a tie at the waist band that is just for show.  I left that off, because I don't want to add anything extra in that area.

Pinning the Bodkin Inside the Casing for Stability on B6224

There was a lot of elastic to fish through the waist seam.  I used my trusty bodkin.  There were many times I had to put a pin through the head of the bodkin to hold it in place while I fiddled with the elastic and the casing trying to get the elastic to spread out evenly in the casing.  If I make this pattern again I will probably leave the elastic out and plan to wear the jumpsuit with a belt instead.

There are a few other things I will change if I decide to make this jumpsuit again.  The bodice is quite low cut in the v-neck.  I am not one to be overly modest, but this was a bit deep for me, so next time I would make the v-neck a bit more shallow.

This jumpsuit has a 22" zipper and a hook and eye closure in the back.  The thought of trying to get these undone in a public bathroom with no assistance from my hubby kind of scares me.  Next time I put the zipper in the front and use an exposed zipper!  I think that would be a nice design element.  My husband says just leave off the hook and eye and add a pull to the zipper to keep it in the back.  It isn't a bad idea and something I may have to do if I plan to wear this version outside the house.

Though my bust is a half inch smaller than the pattern calls for in the size 30, this needs a FBA.  You can see the drag lines beside the bust in the picture, but this pattern was almost uncomfortable in the bust.  Feels like it is smashing the bust flat like a sports bra does.  The dart is slightly too low for my bust and needs to move up about 3/4 of an inch.

I would take an inch out of the bodice in length, and add 3 inches to the pants/crotch curve in length.  I am pulling down on the pockets for a reason!  Also, the arm holes on this pattern are a bit tight.  This is not a problem I have ever had before with a pattern.  Generally pattern armholes are gaping open showing off my underthings.  The directions have you turn in a narrow hem for the arms to finish them off.  I think next time I would use bias binding, and this would help with the tightness there.

So Friends, what do you think?  Can a plus size gal wear a jumpsuit?  I personally believe curvy divas can wear whatever they want as long as they can get a good fit.

In case you are wondering the fabric I used is a 100% cotton quilt backing from Windham Fabrics that was in the fashion fabric section at my local Hancock.  At 108 inches wide and $4.95 a yard plus a percent off coupon, I grabbed up some yardage to use for wearable muslins.  It feels and behaves much like chambray but with a little more heft.

A Woman Divided

Hello friends!  I am suffering with a bit of sewing split personality disorder at the moment.  Practical me wants to compile a collection of TNT patterns for essential items.  Creative me wants to tea dye crinkle gauze, and hand paint silk dresses, and put glass seed beads on everything, and do all kinds of other creative projects.  Balance has never been my best attribute!

My beloved TNT t-shirt pattern has gone the way of the dodo bird.  Somewhere in the move from the basement to the main level, it just vanished never to be heard from again.  I still have the original pattern, but the truth is I was starting to fall out of love with this pattern anyway, and by the time I got the thing to TNT status I had Franken-patterned the hell out of the original pattern.  So I have decided to start over, from scratch.

About a month ago Lauren at Lladybird posted about the method that she uses for t-shirt necklines.  I tried it that afternoon, and it rocked my t-shirt sewing world.  It is just basically a bound neckline, but I lurve the look of it.

Bound Neckline on T-shirt

If you follow my instagram, you may recognize this pic.  This is what the bound neckline ends up looking like.  I think it just looks so much more polished than the regular neckline method I have been using.  I plan to incorporate it in to my new t-shirt TNT pattern, and may even toy with using it to "hem" sleeves as well.

There are many other TNT patterns to be made including pants, jeans, cardigans, tank tops for layering, so many things!

Then there is this whole creative wonder world that is spinning around in my head.  The things that I want to make.  Do you ever suffer from creative ADD?  All these beautiful ideas swirling around in your head, and not enough time to get them all down on paper, much less to actually make them.

Sometimes random inspiration keeps me up sewing in to the wee hours of the morning.  That is my favorite kind of creative energy.  When you become so passionate about getting something made that sleep, food, and everything else will have to wait until you can get that fantastic creative idea out of your head and in to reality.  Am I the only one who turns mad sewist in the wee hours?

It's Been a Week

Friends, this isn't going to be much of a sewing post.  More of a rambling, so if those kinds of posts don't interest you, you have been warned.

This week has been one for the books.  My sewing machine has started hitting on the outer limits of the stitch width.  In a matter of minutes a nearly finished t-shirt broke 4 needles as I was doing top stitching.  I thought I was doing something wrong, but then realized my needle was hitting and that was what was causing the needle to break.  After doing some testing I found that the needle was hitting on both the left and right limit of the stitch width.  Ugh!  I guess my machine is going in for a servicing, because no amount of cleaning is going to fix this issue.

I had minor surgery this week.  Not really going to go in to detail, but it seems all is well which is what we were hoping to find out.  I learned an important sewing lesson after this procedure though.  Pain meds and pattern adjustments are not a good mix.  In my post anesthesia pain med brain fog, I somehow thought that adding 5 inches across 4 seams meant adding .75 inches to each seam.  Fortunately, the pattern had a great amount of ease and the fabric some stretch, but this could have been a real issue!

I have so many things that I want to sew right now, so many fabrics that are begging to be cut.  Yet, today is the last day of school and I know my sewing will slow considerably while school is out.  You will probably be able to see more of my makes on Instagram over the Summer as my blogging time will likely be reduced.

Hope all is well with you and yours, and that you are looking forward to flights of Summer fancy!

A Throw Back to My Youth - Simplicity 3799 and Butterick 6071

Friends, I actually finished this ensemble a few weeks back, but have yet to blog about it.  Please excuse the wrinkles, because this colorful duo is getting a lot of action!  It reminds me of the play clothes that I wore as a small child in the early 80s.

B6071 and S3799

The top is Simplicity pattern S3799.  I love this style shirt for the warm months, as it is light and breezy and just feels great.  This pattern would also make a cute nightgown or house dress in a similar material.  Speaking of which, the material used here is a 100% cotton crinkle gauze that I picked up at Hancock a few months back.  It was one of those reduced priced bolts that had never been pulled.  I had been watching it since last Spring, and when I finally decided to get it, it was 80% off because of someone's over sight.  My gain, I guess!  This kind of bright multi color pattern is a bit uncharacteristic for me, but this season I have really been craving these sorts of prints.

S3799 is a quick sew.  It fit straight from the envelope in a XXL, because honestly these style patterns offer a lot of ease.  I think that I did alright on the pattern placement, though in hindsight I probably would have gotten the center medallion a little more off center.  This pattern was cut and sewn in about an hour and a half.  I suppose it would have gone even faster had I not used a crinkle fabric.

S3799

For my dress loving friends out there, S3799 would sew up in to a perfectly fast Summer sundress.  Just add a belt to get the definition that you are looking for.  Though if you were to use a thin fabric like this, you would probably need a slip or lining.

I finished the underarms with burgundy bias tape (sorry no pics).  You might notice that I have been using a lot of bias tape lately, that is because I have a stockpile of the stuff from my thrifty shopping efforts and I figure I need to use it.  Plus, cutting bias makes pattern layout a pain.

On to the shorts!  Friends, do yourself a favor and challenge yourself with sewing some shorts this Summer.  It will be a great learning experience!  These shorts are Butterick B6071.  This pattern is actually intended for trousers or capris, but I chopped it off right at the knee line printed on the pattern and lo and behold, we have shorts!

B6071

This is all you are going to get to see of the front, because no one wants to see all that jiggly stuff, but I did want to show off my zipper insert and button hole.  If you look on the right side, you can see where I ended up with a tiny pucker on the waist band.  Little errors like that drive me crazy.  This fabric is a stretch twill, and I promise it doesn't look as wrinkly in person, nor do the front seams look stressed.  If anything it looks too loose.

B6071 has a really weird thing happening at the rear waist band.  When the pattern is laying flat, the waistband curves up.  Like picture the way a camel back sofa curves up.  When I finished sewing these, that weird back waistband stood out from my body.  So I opened the waistband up and inserted elastic.  I am NOT a fan of elastic waist pants.  If I decide to keep this pattern around I will be making some changes to the waistband for sure.

B6071

One interesting detail of these pants/shorts was that they have a welt pocket that runs through darts.  It made me a little nervous at first, but it worked out fine.  I only made faux welt pockets though.  I don't like the the bulk that real welts add, but me arse is such a large piece of real estate that it needs a little something to break up the landscape!

B6071

The faux welts were lined with a quilting cotton from the stash.  Peekaboo!

B6071

I used the same lining for the front pockets.  I think I have gone mad with lining pockets with cute cotton prints!

B6071 and S3799

S3799 is a pattern that I will use over and over again because it will keep me cool during those dog days of Summer.  B6071 may not see the light of day again.  Beware too, that this is a Connie Crawford pattern and they notoriously run large if you decide to give it a try.  I will wear these shorts because they are super comfy (due in part to the stretch twill), but honestly they just aren't very me.  I like tight bottoms that hold everything in.  I detest lycra in my denim!  Who's with me?  At least this pair went over my thighs.

What great things are you sewing up as the mercury rises?  Can't believe the unofficial start to Summer is only a week away!!  Any fun Memorial Day plans, ya'll??